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Old 11-27-2013, 08:57 AM   #181
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Build is great. I had some fitting to do on the front arms to get them to move smoothly. They were a bit tight. A little sanding and then polishing and everything is moving nicely.

I LOVE:
1. The front kingpins! SO glad to be done with e-clips!
2. The shock (though it took a while to get it without a ton of rebound - I would like to hear from the team guys on their shock build process)
3. The diff is SUPER smooth (even better with the slapmaster thrust bearing).

Not so crazy about:
1. No rollover antenna (sorry to keep harping on this, I'm a purist)

Couple of observations/questions
- WOW that rear brace is thick? 5mm is it?
- What are the two empty countersunk holes for just ahead of the rear end?
- I trimmed the outside battery stops and will post pics as soon as the build is complete.

I've owned a LOT of 12th scales over the years. This is my favorite to build.
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Old 11-27-2013, 09:06 AM   #182
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Originally Posted by dr_hfuhuhurr View Post
- What are the two empty countersunk holes for just ahead of the rear end?
Glad to hear you enjoyed the build process!

Those two countersunk holes are used for battery stops if you run the battery transverse. Basically, use two short M3 screws with a normal 5.5 mm nut and they will help hold the battery in place and prevent it from sliding backwards.

EDIT: And for whatever little it is worth, I haven't figured out the ideal way to build the center shock yet, either. My first attempt was pretty good, but I would like to refine the technique a little before I post anything.
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Last edited by LloydLoar; 11-27-2013 at 09:22 AM.
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Old 11-27-2013, 11:34 AM   #183
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I have a couple of shocks to experiment with myself.
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Old 11-27-2013, 11:43 AM   #184
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For building the shock...here's what I finally came up with.

- Soak the two internal o-rings in oil for a bit to allow them to swell properly
- Build the shock shaft/piston assembly and install it into the body.
- Add the bottom o-ring, plastic bushing then cap
- Thread on the ball end to the shock shaft
- Fill the shock body with oil removing all bubbles (haven't figured out how high to fill the body yet)
- Add the shock bushing piece to the shock body and push down with an allen driver gently
- Insert the o-ring into the plastic shock cap/seal
- push the shock shaft all the way in and install the plastic cap (oil went everywhere for me so I used too much oil)
- start screwing on the cap allowing oil to seep from the top
- At this point you'll have quite a bit of rebound so to get that out, unscrew the bottom seal and SLOWLY work the piston back into the shock body to bleed the shock
- tighten and repeat the above 2 steps till you get the rebound you're looking for (almost nothing for me, just smooth shock movement)
- add the spring and retainer and install on the car


Not the easiest shock I've ever worked with but at least I didn't strip the cap like I did on my Associated car (that was not a good shock cap)
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Old 11-27-2013, 12:52 PM   #185
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I'm having trouble imagining how a through-shaft damper with no rebound spring can have rebound. Is the air cavity that the top of the shaft goes into in the cap vented?

-Mike
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Old 11-27-2013, 12:55 PM   #186
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You have one of these now Mike?!
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Old 11-27-2013, 01:09 PM   #187
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grippgoat View Post
I'm having trouble imagining how a through-shaft damper with no rebound spring can have rebound. Is the air cavity that the top of the shaft goes into in the cap vented?

-Mike
Assemble the shock with the shock shaft compressed at the point at which you would like the rebound to be. In a perfect build the air above the piston will compress and expand back to that point at which the shock shaft was held during assembly.

I had no issues, but did use a Tamiya shock pump to vac all the air out of the shock.

Great rear shock, way nicer that the Tamiya RM01x shock. In comparison the RM is a huge disappointment overall.
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Old 11-27-2013, 01:12 PM   #188
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Woops
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Old 11-27-2013, 02:06 PM   #189
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You have one of these now Mike?!
No, but I was intrigued by the conversation.

But there are two major purposes for a through-shaft damper:
- Better handling of side-loads by supporting the shaft at both ends.
- Removing the "rebound" effect that comes from the changing volume occupied by the shock shaft as it moves in and out. With the through-shaft damper, the volume taken by the shaft is constant.

My AME T-Shox don't have rebound without a rebound spring. So I'm curious where the rebound comes from. But I could very well be missing something, because I've only looked at the manual.

-Mike
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Old 11-27-2013, 03:09 PM   #190
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The cap is sealed. Maybe a vent hole is in order?
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Old 11-27-2013, 03:14 PM   #191
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The cap is sealed. Maybe a vent hole is in order?
There is a small dimple on the side of the cap. I drilled mine out. Makes life really easy when building these . I also HEAVILY shock slime up my cap and orings in this shock. It seems to turn out really well then.
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Old 11-27-2013, 05:48 PM   #192
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Originally Posted by Korey Harbke View Post
There is a small dimple on the side of the cap. I drilled mine out. Makes life really easy when building these . I also HEAVILY shock slime up my cap and orings in this shock. It seems to turn out really well then.
Shocks feels much better after those little tidbits. Thanks buddy
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Old 11-27-2013, 06:12 PM   #193
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Don't you have a job Jaybee? Lmao

You do more wrenching in a day than I do all year!
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Old 11-27-2013, 06:18 PM   #194
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Umm yes....yes I do
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Old 11-27-2013, 06:54 PM   #195
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Umm yes....yes I do
ygpm
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