lipo onroad
 

what size of battery would you use in 17.5 binky?

5600 works just fine. never use more than 2500mah in 17.5 if you do, something else is wrong with the car thats dragging.
the newer 7000s would be a good pick too. to keep the average voltage higher over the run, but there is absolutely zero need to buy $100 batteries for 17.5 lol. $25-$45 are just as capable of winning.

I agree with VALK. You don't need high capacity batteries. Just look for batteries with I high "C" rating. :cool:

well, the c rating is only important when your pulling massive amps. a 4.5 with tons of boost will draw the kind of current that shows C rating, or a short course truck that weighs a metric ton. you really want as many mah you can afford to keep the battery above 8volts longer.

40c is the magic number for 17.5 i think. 20-25c you might notice the batteries drop off after a few minutes, but if you get the 6-7000mah ones you would be fine. 40c 5000mah is the best bang for the buck, or it was when i got into the sport.
saying this, i have 50-100c batteries but i share them between my stock and mod cars. just turnigy for now but i might pick up a few top of the line batteries if i start poking my head in the top 5 at larger events in my region.
i dont nessisarily think it will make me faster, i wont a big race recently with turnigy batteries against a very skilled driver that runs top of the line everything.

driver is ALWAYS the deciding factor in stock.

but.. i guess when you reach a certain level, where everyone has that top fo the line crap.. might as well hah.

oh, ps, you didnt mention what class. if its single cell, then yes, C rating starts to matter but any good quality $50 single cell will get you through the race fast ;)

In 17.5t blinky a good 40C+ battery with decent mah will suffice, but you need to choose a good generation two charger to pull it Off : ie, thunderpower, icharger,etc.....

I have a few turnigy nanos 6.0, a few revtechs (6500), 2 orion 90c 6500, several gen ace 50c 5000s and in stock sedan blinky its hard to tell the difference until into the 3rd minute or so. Then the extra capacity makes itself known as the gen ace tends to lose some of its punch (actually makes the car a bit easier to drive depending on conditions).

40c 5000mah is a great place to start and wont break the bank! Your turnigys (if they are the 65c 6000+=mah) more than likely arent holding you back unless you are running longer than 6 mins.

we are actually moving to 5 minute races in the WCICS, just like EFRA. i would have got the 6500mah but I believe they aren't roar approved. or werent. Think they cost $45 from hobbyking.

Might try some EAM packs if i can afford it.

higher end voltage is still king. I would still choose I higher capacity pack that is not too heavy.

Check out Bego racing in Quebec......SMC'S a little pricy maybe. I just bought 2 1S7000's for 1/12 scale, and 2 2S 4600 for VTA car, and Quebec is almost in Canada. LOL

I placed my first order last spring with Hobby King, had problems (short shipped) Put me thru "HOOPS", never did get satisfaction. They are off my radar!!!!!!!

smc is pretty decent. I started racing 12th scale with those and i still have one. all of them puffed up but still work just fine.
I have a reedy 6500 65c that is.. ok.. for the $70 it cost though i was hoping it would be epic.. the $25 turnigy packs i bought for the 12th scale are every bit as good. iv'e had one puff up, but that was from me letting it go completely flat, recovering it and racing it a whole night in that recovered state. it was still able to make the amain and finish in the top 3 in 17.5 boost. my reedy is a great battery.. i think. I just cant tell the difference from a $25 battery at all..
but that's in stock. modified it might show its true capability much better.

I haven't really owned any exceptional 2s batteries for my touring cars, though i had the pleasure to test a revtech back to back with a turnigy pack at our last ourdoor weekend race. the result of which.. was the exact same laptimes.. There really wasnt any difference to be felt in 17.5 at all and that battery was 4x as much money.
I attribute the TQ holders results as a better overall driver with a better setup car on new tires. i came very close to taking his tq but i still make mistakes =)


ugh. dunno why im so fired up on this topic. just tired of seeing people preach top of the line shit to go slower lol. the math just doesn't add up. sure some fast guys are running the best possible stuff. but give them the cheaper stuff, they will still be fast.. wanna make spec truly spec? do what nitro has done and limit the max price of the parts used. bring some perspective to the sport.

but maybe dont listen to me. I still haven't gone to the US to compete yet. that's next year. I might be a F mainer talking shit lol.

I am with you Valk all the way. For the great majority of racers the difference between A and B is nothing, sure i can look at bench test graphs and see that A might be technically superior to B and hold voltage longer, but how that equates on the track in 21.5, 17.5 and even 10.5 more often than not is negligible for anyone other than those in the 1%.

When you do critical analysis on the information out there, the difference more often that not is in the region of 100ths of a second per lap, and to gain that benefit, you need to be running a ST-Dev in the sub .2 second range. If you are not consistent, then, you waste any technical advantage your equipment gives you more often than not.

Now for the OP, the size of the pack you run really comes down to the 50% rule. The 50% rule for spec racing is always use a pack big enough to come off the track at the end of the race with 50% of its capacity remaining.

The reason for this is simple, the first 1/2 of a pack gives you the most consistent voltage, and voltage over time is what wins races. So generally speaking, anything from 4200 shorty packs to 5000 stick packs will do that job nicely.

Oh and for MOD, toss all this out the window, because it is a totally different set of circumstances to deal with.

thanks guys for input.
the class is stock onroad. i will be racing in a few wcics but im just a c-main driver looking for info (looking for the lightest batt. ) cuzz i notice the larger packs have way more weight
so i should use the 8 volt as a starter point (or end point). would i use the same for cta ?

what would guys use for mod onroad?

+1:nod:

SMC is one of the best batteries out there for now.

Guys think its all batteries, or motor.
It's a combination of everything.

Luck is when preparation meets opportunity!

remember that a 6000mah battery with 50C will be more powerful than a 5000mah with the same 50c and when i say more powerful no i dont mean run time.