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Old 11-27-2014, 07:18 AM   #106
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MX i feel ya. Its 73 miles one way for me. Testing was interesting. Within the first pull of the trigger I noticed a crunching sound..1/4 lap later my spur gear was gone. No biggie I'll put in another one....ten dollars later I hear it again....spur. The plastic spur gear holders are too flexible and deflect on acceleration causing misalignment and failure. Soooooo i buy the the alloy parts A&B.....$44 and $20 dollar units..
Ouch!!! I tell ya this car was a bargain to get into but will cost a fortune to get race ready...parts are costly! My advice would be to save your pennies and get the pro. Trust me you want regret it. Now on to final thoughts: if you want to run the car as is, change over to 48p gears as they are stronger and can take the abuse. If you want to race it get the aluminum motor mount and partner it up with the alum gear support.. And that should save the gears.. Get the alloy servo mount as the stock one flexes too much. But i used goop under my servo and its sturdy. Redo the ball stud on the servo horn cause the stock one is pressed in the hole. Thats all i could find until i can get some laps on it. Overall tho its a beautiful chassis and inexpensive to get in to. Costly to repair/upgrade.......so bottom line, im not gonna upgrade this car buy tossing parts at it. I'm just gonna buy the pro and be done. IT'S the better buy....cheers
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Old 11-27-2014, 07:46 AM   #107
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I did buy the Pro (2 of them through the HRP sale $239) set one up for VTA and the other for USGT. I also picked up a TR10 for spare parts. At $99 the spare arms, c-hubs, turn knuckles, gear diff and shocks were will worth the investment. Only issue I have had was getting the gear diff's to seal. I ended up making my own gaskets. I have had no leaks.

Ran base set up but lowered the roll center on the USGT. That help the rear end.
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Old 11-27-2014, 08:01 AM   #108
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Good deal! Please share your gasket secrets cause mine leaks too. As frustrating as my night could have been i rather enjoyed the experience. The Ho-B Max crew did above and beyond to help out. Digging thru tons of inventory to find my parts....offering to hand dremel down all 6 screws for the new motor mount (stock ones are too long). Just what a racer needs! So after dinner and dishes I'm going back to work on it for practice at king on friday
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Old 11-27-2014, 08:31 AM   #109
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I went to Napa Auto Parts and bought the thinnest gasket material they had. I cut out the gaskets to size. I then preassembled Diff half’s (No gasket or gears) tightening down completely and then disassembled. Take the large Diff half and surface sand with 600 grit on a piece of glass. This gives you a good flat surface for the gasket to seal to. The purpose of preassembling the diff is when you thread and start new screws it can cause a raised portion in the plastic around the hole. Surface sanding removes this.

Hope this helps, I will be at Ho-B max Sunday for the point’s race.
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Old 11-27-2014, 09:14 AM   #110
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Good stuff thnx man!
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Old 11-29-2014, 07:54 PM   #111
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I recently got my hands on the TC10 and I am very happy with it. My rear diff leaks as well and after reading the posts above, I will try the fix. After finding the right size spur gear for stock (92) and getting the 2 deg rear toe block, it's been smooth sailing.
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Old 11-30-2014, 07:03 AM   #112
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I ran my TR10 sport against some pretty stiff competition last night and I wish i could've done better but....oh well. Nearly every run needed a part here or there (thankful for Dave Cates) and his spare xray. Eventualy the car was in race form. Heck i even lead for a while until a front CV pin put me in 3 wheel drive mode. Am I happy with my results? Not really. Did i get my money's worth? Yes i feel I did! Soooo my next move will most likely be to make the R a vta car and buy the pro later on....I LIKE THIS CAR
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Old 11-30-2014, 08:24 AM   #113
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kris James View Post
I recently got my hands on the TC10 and I am very happy with it. My rear diff leaks as well and after reading the posts above, I will try the fix. After finding the right size spur gear for stock (92) and getting the 2 deg rear toe block, it's been smooth sailing.
Hi! Make sure the o ring is nicely fitted on the groove when you put the diff together. Also make sure it's not overfilled.
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Old 12-04-2014, 07:38 PM   #114
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What other rear hubs fit besides xray? Will yok or tc6.1 work?
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Old 12-05-2014, 01:26 AM   #115
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What other rear hubs fit besides xray? Will yok or tc6.1 work?
Other hubs may work, but keep in mind, some use a 2 1/2mm outer hinge pin and others use a 3mm.
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Old 12-06-2014, 05:24 AM   #116
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So other than pink vs orange, any other difference between the tc10 and the sakura ultimate?
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Old 12-10-2014, 09:19 AM   #117
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The steering rod length on my tr10 is 21.90mm the tc10 is 22.55. What length brings me closet to .5 degresz to out?
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Old 12-10-2014, 10:19 AM   #118
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The steering rod length on my tr10 is 21.90mm the tc10 is 22.55. What length brings me closet to .5 degresz to out?
Find someone that has a set-up station and ask if you can use it.
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Old 12-10-2014, 10:38 AM   #119
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The steering rod length on my tr10 is 21.90mm the tc10 is 22.55. What length brings me closet to .5 degresz to out?
Hi! You mean the left and right steering links? If you don't have a setup station you can determine the toe by measurin the distance between the wheels from the front part of the wheel and same thing from the rear part of the wheel. The difference between the two gaps is your toe. It's not very precise but it works.
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Old 12-10-2014, 11:48 AM   #120
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Yes i know just curious if 22.55mm was the kit setup of 1 toe out....... 1/2 toe in....and so on. For now I'm using calibers til I get my setup station. Front end is sensitive on corner entry. Thanks y'all
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