TC4 questions
08-30-2013, 04:17 PM
#1
TC4 questions
I am getting a TC4 on the cheap and im not to thrilled about the ball diff. I seen that the team associated Apex has a metal gear diff in the rear end, does anyone know if that will bolt right into the TC4?
thanks in advance
thanks in advance
08-31-2013, 10:36 AM
#3
Tech Fanatic
08-31-2013, 12:35 PM
#4
if you want nice things like a gear dif... how cheap are we talking? you can get the spec R for under $100 new right now. tc4 is a decent chassis to start out with but don't buy it expecting to upgrade the crap out of it. if you buy it, it is what it is. balldifs arent terrible though. if your racing stock, you really dont need a geardif.
08-31-2013, 01:39 PM
#5
The ball diff in the TC4 is just fine.
08-31-2013, 04:03 PM
#6
The ball diff is good in the rear with a spool/lcd combo in the front.... It works for any class, stock/mod/4S....etc......
08-31-2013, 07:07 PM
#7
I plan on running a castle 4600Kv system on 2 cell 50c lipo. I dont know if the ball diff would hold up.
08-31-2013, 08:39 PM
#8
Tech Fanatic
Did speed runs with my tc4 with a 9200kv motor and 4s lipo, diffs held up fine.
Last edited by Rojna; 09-01-2013 at 09:18 AM.
09-07-2013, 12:58 PM
#9
Well Got it all built up and had 2 packs through it and on the second pack the ball diff melted and i turned into front wheel drive. Anyone have any ideas on why? Anyone try to put a planetary diff in the rear end?
09-07-2013, 01:06 PM
#10
first upgrade would ceramic dif balls and building your difs properly. offroad cars have balldifs and dont seem to melt, nor do 12th scale cars.
if your chewing ring gears or input gears, you might need to look at shimming the input shafts a little differently to get the mesh better. i never had any problems with my NTC3 difs at all dispite everyone shooting them down every which way.
ceramic balls and hardend dif rings would be a must though. check a few youtube videos on how to properly build and break in a balldif.
my most common issues were with the nut stripping so i started locktiting them during break in.
id look into thrust bearings as well as the tc4/ntc3 difs didn't have any thrust bearing assemblies. Tamiya ones might fit. but i dont have any ntc3 stuff left to try for you.
the thrust bearing associated started using in their tc5 dif is... ok.. but id try to get a actual captured thrust bearing if your gonna bother.
if your chewing ring gears or input gears, you might need to look at shimming the input shafts a little differently to get the mesh better. i never had any problems with my NTC3 difs at all dispite everyone shooting them down every which way.
ceramic balls and hardend dif rings would be a must though. check a few youtube videos on how to properly build and break in a balldif.
my most common issues were with the nut stripping so i started locktiting them during break in.
id look into thrust bearings as well as the tc4/ntc3 difs didn't have any thrust bearing assemblies. Tamiya ones might fit. but i dont have any ntc3 stuff left to try for you.
the thrust bearing associated started using in their tc5 dif is... ok.. but id try to get a actual captured thrust bearing if your gonna bother.
09-07-2013, 01:11 PM
#11
I have never had any luck with ball diffs. They have always slipped or just melted. When i got the car i just ran it with stock setup and it kind of lasted. but i started to drift with it a little and it just went out about 5 minutes in. I have looked all over and i dont think it is possible to put a planetary diff in there. Does anyone know that ASC number for the upgrade ball diff?
09-07-2013, 01:20 PM
#12
I have never had any luck with ball diffs. They have always slipped or just melted. When i got the car i just ran it with stock setup and it kind of lasted. but i started to drift with it a little and it just went out about 5 minutes in. I have looked all over and i dont think it is possible to put a planetary diff in there
09-07-2013, 02:02 PM
#13
Tech Fanatic
forget the ceramic balls, just get the steel outdrives or diff kit, the plastic outdrives are great for stock classes but cant handle mod motors.
3918 or 31128
3918 or 31128
09-07-2013, 02:48 PM
#15
Forget about ball diff in the front... You will never get that to Work, whether you have ceramics 3/32”& 5/64” or steel outdrives/ loctite on the bolt etc..... You need a spool up front period... I tried all of the above and the bolt's head popped on both the front and rear End ! After switching to the IRS aluminum spool/lcd , nothing broke anymore. You can get the AE steel spool/lcd for durability , and that will be your last build, provided you shim your diff gears right....