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Old 11-15-2015, 09:48 PM   #871
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I'm not trying to switch to aluminum - just get rid of the phillips heads. I have absolutely no reason whatsoever to carry a phillips OTHER than for those 4 screws.
Understood, too much info on my response
Would also prefer a hex head, to a phillips

Interesting you two are struggling to make weight though ?
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Old 11-15-2015, 09:51 PM   #872
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Interesting you two are struggling to make weight though ?
Mine was heavy - but not as bad as his. I will have to check it again with the new motor and body.
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Old 11-15-2015, 09:55 PM   #873
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Could be the vx3 or the r1 which is kind of heavy.
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Old 11-15-2015, 10:05 PM   #874
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Mine has a VTX1 and 24K in it with a big-ass Futaba RX. I will probably put my small RX and Orion ESC in this week. That will save a few grams.
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Old 11-15-2015, 10:29 PM   #875
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Depending on the motor, I have added from 10 to 20g with all steel screws on the bottom to make weight with a Futaba rec, 9650 servo & LRP SXXVII esc

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Old 11-16-2015, 06:46 AM   #876
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Anyone find a hex alternative to the front end screws? Best I can tell the stock ones are a 100 degree 8-32 panhead phillips which have a head diameter of .312". A hex equivalent has a head diameter of .359" which is too big.
CRC used to sell a set (maybe they still do...), but I've got Lunsford 8-32 titanium hexes on the front of a few of my cars. They're not cheap, but I've used the same set for a few years, and they have a few different lengths available.
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Old 11-16-2015, 06:47 AM   #877
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Depending on the motor, I have added from 10 to 20g with all steel screws on the bottom to make weight with a Futaba rec, 9650 servo & LRP SXXVII esc

That's closer to where mine will be. Currently it has a Viper and 603 RX but I intend to put my Orion ESC in and my 614 RX which will drop some weight.

Anyone have a Rev 8 Pro they want to sell? I'm looking for a second one. Would be interested in buying it or I would trade an immaculate Roche P12 for one.
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Old 11-16-2015, 07:54 AM   #878
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Hey Drew,
I have a brand new Rev 8 for sale. Assembled, never run. PM me.
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Old 11-16-2015, 08:12 AM   #879
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Could be the vx3 or the r1 which is kind of heavy.
I run the vx3 1s, airtronics 471, old amb transponder. (switching to the mylaps soon) I have changed out some of the screws to titanium on the bottom. The two camber button heads i switched to titanium, then aluminum screws on the top for the rest of the button screws. My car with 42-41 blue double blue tires is around 729. At a big race i will have to switch out the bottom ti screws to ss to make weight.

I also ordered titanium front screws from amain but i'm still waiting for them to come in.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/rc-cars-...t-4044/p300686
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Old 11-16-2015, 08:14 AM   #880
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Hey Drew,
I have a brand new Rev 8 for sale. Assembled, never run. PM me.
PM sent
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Old 11-16-2015, 08:20 AM   #881
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I also ordered titanium front screws from amain but i'm still waiting for them to come in.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/rc-cars-...t-4044/p300686
FYI - those aren't going to work. Here is why (I am going down this road as we speak which is how I know):

- Those are 82 panheads, stock are 100. This means that from the face of the screw to the start of the threads is .100" tall. The 100 are .070" from the face to the thread. To fix this you would have to re-countersink the holes BUT the chassis is only .100" thick so you would run very close to bottoming the screw out if you aren't running any spacers.

- Hex head screws have a head diameter of .359" while phillips have a head diameter of .312". The holes in the chassis are right around .300" at their widest point which means that you will have a portion of the screw hanging over - which would also require a widening, re counter-sinking which gets back to the issue above.

Probably the best option would be a 100 hex head and then widen the countersink to make it work - but that will require a 100 countersink bit.
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Old 11-16-2015, 09:01 AM   #882
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Originally Posted by Drew Manzella View Post
FYI - those aren't going to work. Here is why (I am going down this road as we speak which is how I know):

- Those are 82 panheads, stock are 100. This means that from the face of the screw to the start of the threads is .100" tall. The 100 are .070" from the face to the thread. To fix this you would have to re-countersink the holes BUT the chassis is only .100" thick so you would run very close to bottoming the screw out if you aren't running any spacers.

- Hex head screws have a head diameter of .359" while phillips have a head diameter of .312". The holes in the chassis are right around .300" at their widest point which means that you will have a portion of the screw hanging over - which would also require a widening, re counter-sinking which gets back to the issue above.

Probably the best option would be a 100 hex head and then widen the countersink to make it work - but that will require a 100 countersink bit.
I used these http://www.lunsfordracing.com/mm5/me...y_Code=STDFLAT with zero issues for over a year. Before you come up with all the reasons they won't work why don't you just give them a try? I can safely say that there was no screw hanging out the bottom of the car and I never had any issues with a screw loosening up during a run.
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Old 11-16-2015, 09:48 AM   #883
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I used these http://www.lunsfordracing.com/mm5/me...y_Code=STDFLAT with zero issues for over a year. Before you come up with all the reasons they won't work why don't you just give them a try? I can safely say that there was no screw hanging out the bottom of the car and I never had any issues with a screw loosening up during a run.
If the picture of your screws is accurate I can almost guarantee you that those are 100 panheads - which is what the car was drilled for.

An 82 will not work. It will hang out the bottom. This isn't magic - it's geometry.
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Old 11-16-2015, 10:07 AM   #884
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I too use the Lunsford 8-32 flat heads. The head measures .306 in diameter and held up to the stock screws look like the angle is similar but it's hard to say for sure. I have them on a couple of cars and they've been fine so far in spite of my not so precise driving style. They don't have a relief under the head like the stock screws so running with no shims might be a problem if you need to do that. I shot an email off to Lunsford to confirm the angle....
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Old 11-16-2015, 10:14 AM   #885
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Measure the height of the head from the face to where the threads start. 100 are around .070" while 82 are about .100"



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