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Old 09-03-2013, 12:06 AM   #16
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Gonna order mine from RCmart and pick up in HK a week after, gonna run 13.5t on it and see how it goes.

I will probably set my old Zero up as drift since I already got a spool and FOW.

The Zero's been awesome but it is showing its age, while still very competitive, I'm keen on trying out the newer chassis designs and see what the fuss is all about with flex and stuff..
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Old 09-09-2013, 06:25 PM   #17
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Hi guys,

I'm building up the ultimate quite slowly and taking my time as i am trying to make sure i make no mistakes.

I have found when i put the front sway bar on that it binds up the suspension so it doesn't move freely up and down. This wasn't the case before the sway bar went on.

the rear does not have this issue.

Has anyone else come accross this?

Cheers,
Patrick
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Old 09-09-2013, 06:27 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by pmac View Post
Hi guys,

I'm building up the ultimate quite slowly and taking my time as i am trying to make sure i make no mistakes.

I have found when i put the front sway bar on that it binds up the suspension so it doesn't move freely up and down. This wasn't the case before the sway bar went on.

the rear does not have this issue.

Has anyone else come accross this?

Cheers,
Patrick
I acutally had a similar issue. You have to slide the swaybar links inward letting the wire poke out the end. That should solve the binding issue slightly.
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Old 09-09-2013, 06:41 PM   #19
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I acutally had a similar issue. You have to slide the swaybar links inward letting the wire poke out the end. That should solve the binding issue slightly.
I tried that but i didn't help that much. it looks like the sway bar is not bent correctly and is too wide as when the suspension arms are all the way down the links are meant to be straight? Mine are leaning out heaps.

I'll have a bit more of a play when i finish work.
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Old 09-09-2013, 07:07 PM   #20
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I'm finishing the build on my Ultimate, I removed the sway bars.
The wire seemed light, and it didn't seem to be doing much.

My XRay T2R doesn't have a sway bar and the guys I know that run ARC's don't use the sway bar on theirs. So I'm going to run mine without one.

Ric

Last edited by Ricardo40; 09-09-2013 at 07:32 PM.
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Old 09-09-2013, 10:05 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by Ricardo40 View Post
I'm finishing the build on my Ultimate, I removed the sway bars.
The wire seemed light, and it didn't seem to be doing much.

My XRay T2R doesn't have a sway bar and the guys I know that run ARC's don't use the sway bar on theirs. So I'm going to run mine without one.

Ric
When i added the sway bars to my sakura zero they made a huge difference so i really don't want to lose them all together. I need to find a way to make it work.
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Old 09-10-2013, 11:06 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by pmac View Post
Hi guys,

I'm building up the ultimate quite slowly and taking my time as i am trying to make sure i make no mistakes.

I have found when i put the front sway bar on that it binds up the suspension so it doesn't move freely up and down. This wasn't the case before the sway bar went on.

the rear does not have this issue.

Has anyone else come accross this?

Cheers,
Patrick
I have built my Ultimate and have no binding issues with the front suspension. I played around and could get the front to bind by sliding the sway bar out to the end of the wire (ie no wire poking through the ball end). I have about 6mm on each side. I don't think it matters that the sway bar mounts are not exactly vertical. The important thing is that both sides have the same effect. The setup guide I have says with wheels and shocks off lift one arm and measure when the other side starts to lift. Whatever that is should be the same for both sides.
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Old 09-10-2013, 07:00 PM   #23
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I have built my Ultimate and have no binding issues with the front suspension. I played around and could get the front to bind by sliding the sway bar out to the end of the wire (ie no wire poking through the ball end). I have about 6mm on each side. I don't think it matters that the sway bar mounts are not exactly vertical. The important thing is that both sides have the same effect. The setup guide I have says with wheels and shocks off lift one arm and measure when the other side starts to lift. Whatever that is should be the same for both sides.
Would you please take a photo and post it? I have mine poking out around 6mm at the moment and still binding. i tried nothing poking out and tried all the way up to just over 1cm poking out and the same problem the whole time.

I have a ball end reamer on the way to check if it is the ball ends but they seem fine.

I'm sure i will work it out and I will hopefully know what caused it so i can let others know if they come accross the same issue.
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Old 09-11-2013, 04:03 AM   #24
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Got mine now, can't start building till end of the month though. Don't have any tools with me. Can't stand having the kit in front of me but not able to build...
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Old 09-11-2013, 07:50 PM   #25
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Would you please take a photo and post it? I have mine poking out around 6mm at the moment and still binding. i tried nothing poking out and tried all the way up to just over 1cm poking out and the same problem the whole time.

I have a ball end reamer on the way to check if it is the ball ends but they seem fine.

I'm sure i will work it out and I will hopefully know what caused it so i can let others know if they come accross the same issue.
I had a closer look and it seems to be the plastic bits that screw into the front suspension arms are causing the binding because they do not move. Once the ball end reamer arrives i should be able to fix it.
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Old 09-12-2013, 03:33 AM   #26
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Two days ago I received my Sakura Ultimate and couldn't wait to build it. Well today I just finished it and here are some pictures of it. I haven't set it up yet. I need to adjust the toe-in, camber and ride height.

Here some pictures of the finished car. Enjoy. :-)



Here you can see the layout. I tried to make the wiring very tidy, I quite like how it came out.





A shot of my current electronics.



A side shot of the motor cable management. Not too bad.



This is the battery holder. My Turnigy Nano Tech Hardcase LiPo is a perfect fit here and doesn't even slide a bit.



Image of the battery.



And finally I decided to directly plug to the battery using the banana clips. No connectors in the middle.

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Old 09-14-2013, 03:47 AM   #27
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Two days ago I received my Sakura Ultimate and couldn't wait to build it. Well today I just finished it and here are some pictures of it. I haven't set it up yet. I need to adjust the toe-in, camber and ride height.

Here some pictures of the finished car. Enjoy. :-)
Good work on the build. very nice pictures. I'll have to take some of mine.
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Old 09-14-2013, 04:45 AM   #28
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Thanks man. This was my first build. Tried it out on the track today and I liked it. All I can say for now it's very durable cause I crashed twice and they were very hard. Nothing broke :-). This was my 3rd time practising with an onroad car, still need to improve.
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Old 09-16-2013, 03:09 AM   #29
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Thanks man. This was my first build. Tried it out on the track today and I liked it. All I can say for now it's very durable cause I crashed twice and they were very hard. Nothing broke :-). This was my 3rd time practising with an onroad car, still need to improve.
I know the feeling. I've been racing on road for 1 year with a zero. And I'm still crashing. I'm sure you'll be going all right soon enough.
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Old 09-16-2013, 11:08 AM   #30
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Getting the hang of it now. I've set up the car properly on a jig and the handling improved drastically.
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