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*NEW* WILDFIRE D06 Touring Car from VBC RACING

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Old 04-15-2014, 01:44 PM
  #916  
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Originally Posted by LloydLoar
We held the Mile High Indoor Champs here at 5280 Raceway in Denver, Colorado this past weekend. I raced the VBC D06 in mod sedan, qualifying 8th and finishing 9th in the A-main. I am no sedan guru, but with some setup help from Dave Ehrlich and Keven Hebert, I got the car working pretty well (I just need to work on driving it!) Most of my changes were focused on making the car feel more 'direct' with more on-power steering, and I think we succeeded with those items. This was also the first big race using the new Gravity RC spec tires, which proved to be a great tire choice!

Changes from my usual setups include the following:
- Front diff with 2.5 million cst
- 0.5 mm shims under the front blocks, 1 mm under the rear blocks.
- 3 degrees of rear toe instead of 3.5 degrees
- 2 mm ackermann shim instead of 3 mm

Full setup sheet here:
http://chrishillier.com/wp/wp-conten...il_13_2014.pdf
Thank you for posting!

I'm going to try a similar setup here in Seattle at our last indoor race of the season (Saturday). I have not tried a front gear diff yet, nor different front and rear shims under the blocks (I've been running 0.5 mm under all around).
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Old 04-15-2014, 01:50 PM
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No worries. I should also note that I am using 'cut' steering blocks with full travel (dual-rate) on my radio, which is 150 with KO Propo. No steering expo.
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Old 04-15-2014, 04:53 PM
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Originally Posted by LloydLoar
No worries. I should also note that I am using 'cut' steering blocks with full travel (dual-rate) on my radio, which is 150 with KO Propo. No steering expo.
where are you guys cutting the knuckles?

I have more than enough steering with the stock throw. in fact, I have better times when I don't steer all the way steer too much and the rear hooks/breaks loose sometimes. And we have a bunch of 180s too.
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Old 04-15-2014, 04:56 PM
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Originally Posted by inpuressa
where are you guys cutting the knuckles?

I have more than enough steering with the stock throw. in fact, I have better times when I don't steer all the way steer too much and the rear breaks loose sometimes. And we have a bunch of 180s too.
I know alot of guys that are cutting off the little nub that sticks off the steering knuckle. It's always good to have extra steering if you need it.
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Old 04-16-2014, 12:43 PM
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Really wish VBC would package a spare screw/hardware kit for this car!
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Old 04-16-2014, 01:15 PM
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Originally Posted by DavidNERODease
Really wish VBC would package a spare screw/hardware kit for this car!
We're already working on it.
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Old 04-16-2014, 05:51 PM
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Originally Posted by DavidNERODease
Really wish VBC would package a spare screw/hardware kit for this car!
One really nice thing about the VBC tc kits it they give you alot of extra screws and shims.
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Old 04-16-2014, 07:45 PM
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I new to the vbc chassis and the stock setup sheet said that the drop is 9mm to the pin.

Can someone explain what pin and how to measure this?
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Old 04-16-2014, 07:48 PM
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I'm thinking you are supposed to take the wheels off then set the chassis on a flat surface. From there measure 9m to the centre of the wheel nut pin.
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Old 04-16-2014, 07:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Akhor
I new to the vbc chassis and the stock setup sheet said that the drop is 9mm to the pin.

Can someone explain what pin and how to measure this?
When they are talking about the pin they are talking about the outer hing pin that holds the rear hubs and front castor blocks onto the arms.

For measuring I normally take and put the chassis on a flat surface then take a digital caliper and measure from the flat surface to the middle of the hing pin.
But there are many other ways for measuring droop. I'm sure someone else will chim in also.
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Old 04-16-2014, 10:57 PM
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Originally Posted by edhchoe
My E30 block measured -3.5°.
But my E15 block measures -1.0°
Swop your rear uprights left to right and right to left.
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Old 04-16-2014, 11:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Akhor
I'm thinking you are supposed to take the wheels off then set the chassis on a flat surface. From there measure 9m to the centre of the wheel nut pin.
What I do is set the car on 12mm blocks (Or whatever height) with the wheels removed and use a machinists ruler to measure up the center of the outer hinge pin. I then deduct the height of the blocks and am left with the droop # in mm.

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Old 04-17-2014, 02:12 AM
  #928  
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Alot of the setups call for drilling a 1.1mm hole I the shock cap. Does anyone have a picture they can post of that. Don't want to have to do it twice...lol
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Old 04-17-2014, 10:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Gridworks Racing
What I do is set the car on 12mm blocks (Or whatever height) with the wheels removed and use a machinists ruler to measure up the center of the outer hinge pin. I then deduct the height of the blocks and am left with the droop # in mm.

Thanks, that makes perfect sense.
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Old 04-17-2014, 10:36 AM
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Originally Posted by inpuressa
where are you guys cutting the knuckles?

I have more than enough steering with the stock throw. in fact, I have better times when I don't steer all the way steer too much and the rear hooks/breaks loose sometimes. And we have a bunch of 180s too.
We just sand off the nubs on the back side of the steering block, so you can get more throw. We then run full-throw (ie, full dual-rate/travel), as it really helps out with mod sedan and getting the car to turn.

If it makes the car feel edgy, adjust the setup accordingly rather than removing travel/dual-rate. This is why Max K's setup is so soft.

If you look around at various setup sheets and watch some of the pro setup videos on youtube, you will find various mentions of doing the same thing (full travel, adjust setup accordingly, etc.) To each their own, but I have found that this has really helped!
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