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Old 03-18-2014, 02:45 AM   #856
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I've just noticed the same thing, the E30 and c0 blocks on the rear give over 4deg Rear Toe. The e25 block gives 3.5deg and E20 gives 3 deg. Weird.
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Old 03-18-2014, 10:35 AM   #857
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I have yet to damage a single part on my D06 and performance is excellent. My only comlaint is that some of the holes in the arms for the droop screws are a little too large. I had to CA one hole before I put the droop screw in, otherwise the droop screw would compress into the arm.
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Old 03-18-2014, 07:20 PM   #858
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looking for a parts list of the differences between the d05 and d06. is there one around?
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Old 03-18-2014, 09:44 PM   #859
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Quote:
Originally Posted by butrflynlambie View Post
looking for a parts list of the differences between the d05 and d06. is there one around?
Click below for a parts compatibility list.

I just whipped this up, so please do not consider this all inclusive.


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Old 03-19-2014, 11:47 AM   #860
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidNERODease View Post
I have yet to damage a single part on my D06 and performance is excellent. My only comlaint is that some of the holes in the arms for the droop screws are a little too large. I had to CA one hole before I put the droop screw in, otherwise the droop screw would compress into the arm.
I've had a similar experience. I've yet to break a single part! The car is very durable!

I didn't have any trouble with the arms, but one of the composite spool cups included were not molded well, causing the front suspension to bind. Luckily, I had purchased spares, which work great (and are very durable even in mod sedan!).

My only complaint is the quality of some of the screws. I've stripped out a couple, and one or two where defective out of the box. Not really a big deal though.


Unrelated:

This coming race weekend in Seattle, I'm going to try using longer springs. I have a bunch of Xray T3 and HPI Pro 4 springs on hand, so I'm going to give those a try. They are supposed to be more linear than short springs in general.

I installed the Xray 2.6 front and 2.4 rear springs from my old Xray T3'12. They just barely fit for ride height (5mm front and 5.5mm rear), but they do fit! I'm curious to see what happens! I also have the thin top deck installed now for more mechanical grip

Stay Dialed Everyone!

Peace,
Sam
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Old 03-19-2014, 06:10 PM   #861
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Another racer and I at the track had the top set screw become loose on the steering knuckle. A ball joint attaches there and the upper tierod goes on that ball joint.
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Old 03-19-2014, 06:15 PM   #862
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Originally Posted by davenz View Post
I have just fitted the E20 block and it measures at 3 degrees.
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Originally Posted by Lycan View Post
I've just noticed the same thing, the E30 and c0 blocks on the rear give over 4deg Rear Toe. The e25 block gives 3.5deg and E20 gives 3 deg. Weird.
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Originally Posted by edhchoe View Post
Another racer and I at the track had the top set screw become loose on the steering knuckle. A ball joint attaches there and the upper tierod goes on that ball joint.
That can happen on any car since they are threaded into plastic parts.
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Old 03-19-2014, 06:46 PM   #863
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That can happen on any car since they are threaded into plastic parts.
he's probably referring to the ball instead of the actual set screw. The set screw will not come loose. The ball on mine came loose too. I just used a longer set screw so you can go all the way into the knuckle to grab as much plastic as it can. I do this for the bottom screw too. Then lock tightened the ball to the set screw. Basically made it one piece like the other cars.
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Old 03-19-2014, 06:49 PM   #864
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he's probably referring to the ball instead of the actual set screw. The set screw will not come loose. The ball on mine came loose too. I just used a longer set screw so you can go all the way into the knuckle, and lock tightened the ball to the set screw. Basically made it one piece like the other cars.
Ahhh! You are correct, a longer set screw will take care of it. What you said is how my car is now, 0 issues.
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Old 03-19-2014, 07:17 PM   #865
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The set screw came loose after the hole got lightly stripped. It must have happened during crashes but my son crashes a lot more with his t4 and his car didn't suffer any similar damages. I cannot recall how the designs differ without the cars in front of me..
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Old 03-19-2014, 07:22 PM   #866
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The set screw came loose after the hole got lightly stripped.
It happened to me also. You tend to apply too much torque to the 3mm wrench to tighten the ball to the set screw, and pull the set screw out. I never had an issue with the one piece ones from my previous cars, so I just locked the two parts together. The bottom shock ball is like that too, so watch out.
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Old 03-19-2014, 08:32 PM   #867
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Quote:
Originally Posted by inpuressa View Post
It happened to me also. You tend to apply too much torque to the 3mm wrench to tighten the ball to the set screw, and pull the set screw out. I never had an issue with the one piece ones from my previous cars, so I just locked the two parts together. The bottom shock ball is like that too, so watch out.
So D07 should come with ball studs instead, on the steering knuckles.
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Old 03-20-2014, 03:34 AM   #868
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Samwise View Post
I've had a similar experience. I've yet to break a single part! The car is very durable!

I didn't have any trouble with the arms, but one of the composite spool cups included were not molded well, causing the front suspension to bind. Luckily, I had purchased spares, which work great (and are very durable even in mod sedan!).

My only complaint is the quality of some of the screws. I've stripped out a couple, and one or two where defective out of the box. Not really a big deal though.


Unrelated:

This coming race weekend in Seattle, I'm going to try using longer springs. I have a bunch of Xray T3 and HPI Pro 4 springs on hand, so I'm going to give those a try. They are supposed to be more linear than short springs in general.

I installed the Xray 2.6 front and 2.4 rear springs from my old Xray T3'12. They just barely fit for ride height (5mm front and 5.5mm rear), but they do fit! I'm curious to see what happens! I also have the thin top deck installed now for more mechanical grip

Stay Dialed Everyone!

Peace,
Sam
This is one of the things I have yet to try, but after reading your post Sam, I figured I should give it a go. Dave Ehrlich has been running longer springs for a while and seems to really like it. We threw some on my car on a test day recently and I found the car just smoother and easier to drive.

For myself, I trimmed EXACTLY 2mm off the shock bottoms so I can lower the spring perch. This allows me to use longer springs with ease. The only potential problem I see doing it this way is 2mm is a lot. It doesn't leave a ton of material for the threads to bite into, so I'll report back if anything weird happens. I'm going with the trusty Yokomo Pink/Blue combo that has worked so well on other cars in the past. So far I've mainly just stuck with the kit TBB Orange Fronts and Red Rears that come in the kit.

Other Team Drivers have reported that using VBC Racing A-03-VBC-0086 Aluminium spring retainers and A-03-VBC-0066 Shock bottom connectors are also a way to do it. From what I understand, the older style aluminum retainers let the spring sit a little lower. Unfortunately, the diameter of the older shock bottoms is different than the TBB shocks from the D06. That is why the A-03-0066 shock bottoms are needed. They also still need to be trimmed, but I don't think quite as much (1.5mm instead of 2mm).

-Korey
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Old 03-20-2014, 11:10 PM   #869
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thanks for the compatibility list. I was interested to see if there was an upgrade list to convert from do5 to do6.
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Old 03-20-2014, 11:23 PM   #870
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Quote:
Originally Posted by butrflynlambie View Post
thanks for the compatibility list. I was interested to see if there was an upgrade list to convert from do5 to do6.
Your best option if you want a D06 would be to purchase one. There are a number of differences between the two cars. The parts differences alone probably exceed the cost of a new D06.
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