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Old 12-17-2013, 09:38 PM   #586
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Quote:
Originally Posted by edhchoe View Post
Final drive ratio = spur/pinion x internal ratio (1.9)

You would have to tell us what motor you are using for us to recommend FDR.

Internal ratio = diff gear/ center pulley = 38/20 = 1.9
The reverse also works; Spur x IR/pinion
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Old 12-17-2013, 09:45 PM   #587
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Since we're having a little algebra party:

pinion = spur x IR / FDR

-Mike
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Old 12-17-2013, 09:59 PM   #588
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Thanks so much!

I'm using LRP X20 4t, currently using 30t pinion. Am I doing it right?

Last edited by Ted Su(TW); 12-18-2013 at 12:51 AM.
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Old 12-18-2013, 09:47 AM   #589
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Thanks so much!

I'm using LRP X20 4t, currently using 30t pinion. Am I doing it right?
I would say no. With an LRP X20 4.5T I am running either a 27t or 28t pinion. 30t might make it easier to drive in the infield, though. My speedo was never too hot, though, so you might be able to get away with the 30t.

Either way, unless you are drag racing your D06 outdoors, I would really recommend motoring down. I ran the 4.5T at Timezone and here locally, and it is way too much motor, let alone the 4.0. Right now I am trying a 5.5 Reedy and am soon going to try a 5.0 Reedy. I have used a 4T LRP X20 in my D06 and the thing is scary fast and essentially undriveable indoors.
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Old 12-18-2013, 08:06 PM   #590
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I usually run at nights, and the motor is about 45-50 degree celcius.

But when I run in day time, and when the track is slippery, the motor gets over heated...


How do you calculate the best pinion for a given turn of motor?



Thank you very much!



Quote:
Originally Posted by LloydLoar View Post
I would say no. With an LRP X20 4.5T I am running either a 27t or 28t pinion. 30t might make it easier to drive in the infield, though. My speedo was never too hot, though, so you might be able to get away with the 30t.

Either way, unless you are drag racing your D06 outdoors, I would really recommend motoring down. I ran the 4.5T at Timezone and here locally, and it is way too much motor, let alone the 4.0. Right now I am trying a 5.5 Reedy and am soon going to try a 5.0 Reedy. I have used a 4T LRP X20 in my D06 and the thing is scary fast and essentially undriveable indoors.
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Old 12-20-2013, 12:34 AM   #591
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Check the motor temp with a temp gun after 2-3 minutes of solid run. If the motor is about 140F (60C), you are about geared right. If too hot, go down a tooth or two. If too cool, go a tooth or two on pinion.
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Old 12-20-2013, 12:36 AM   #592
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About 60% done building my D06....

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Old 12-20-2013, 08:04 AM   #593
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Originally Posted by edhchoe View Post
Check the motor temp with a temp gun after 2-3 minutes of solid run. If the motor is about 140F (60C), you are about geared right. If too hot, go down a tooth or two. If too cool, go a tooth or two on pinion.
He is running mod, so this doesn't really work.

Essentially, with a 4.0 I would start somewhere around an 8.5 FDR. See where speedo temps are with that and then gear from there. If speedo temps are good but the car feels too aggressive in the low end, then gear up a tooth or two.
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Old 12-20-2013, 08:06 AM   #594
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Hmm. So how hot does the motor get in mod?




I see..
The motor doesn't work as hard.
Thanks.
|
|
|
V

Last edited by edhchoe; 12-20-2013 at 08:25 AM.
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Old 12-20-2013, 08:13 AM   #595
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Hmm. So how hot does the motor get in mod?
After a six minute run my motor will typically be 115 or 120, but the speedo will be 135. Depends on layout, motor, all sorts of things, but with mod you are typically going to be watching speedo temps rather than motor temps.

In mod 12th I have had the motor come off at 105 and the speedo at 195, if you want an extreme example That was in one of the quals at Timezone GP last month.
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Old 12-20-2013, 08:55 AM   #596
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About 60% done building my D06....

Funny, my car looks exactly like yours - I just put the rear camber links on last night but got too sleepy to start the front end. Doh, I forgot to take a photo last night (I'm making a build doc for my brother).
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Old 12-20-2013, 11:10 AM   #597
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Not sure if anyone is interested, but here is a setup sheet showing what I ran at 5280 raceway this past weekend:

http://chrishillier.com/wp/wp-conten...ec_15_2013.pdf

The car really 'clicked' for me with this setup and I am looking forward to expanding upon it! I am by no means a sedan guru, but I figured I would put this up here anyway just in case anyone is interested.

Due to the miracle of modern technology, you can also check out this link if you want to see what the car looked like on-track:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QjK6ZZniRwo#t=13556

Should be about 3:45 into the video, but the link should get you right there. Body is painted bright green.
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Old 12-20-2013, 11:26 AM   #598
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Originally Posted by LloydLoar View Post
Not sure if anyone is interested, but here is a setup sheet showing what I ran at 5280 raceway this past weekend:

http://chrishillier.com/wp/wp-conten...ec_15_2013.pdf

The car really 'clicked' for me with this setup and I am looking forward to expanding upon it! I am by no means a sedan guru, but I figured I would put this up here anyway just in case anyone is interested.

Due to the miracle of modern technology, you can also check out this link if you want to see what the car looked like on-track:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QjK6ZZniRwo#t=13556

Should be about 3:45 into the video, but the link should get you right there. Body is painted bright green.
wow 4:27:16 how long did it take to upload it?

my race last week. my car is the red-orange one with the white hood, 2nd at the grid. Got some body tuck at the beginning and during race, but came 2nd overall.
+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.
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Old 12-21-2013, 04:53 PM   #599
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For most US style carpet tracks that are smaller than 100x50 ft, I tend to not run any boost at all. Since most of the layouts are very technical with lots of tight 180 deg corners, and short straights, I find boost is a waste and makes the car feel a little more inconsistent.

I've been running with no boost, but all done with basic timing in the ESC. I just throw gear at the motor until it feels right. I will admit, this seems to make the motor heat up more in general, but I prefer the super smooth and linear powerband I can achieve without trying to optimize all of the boost settings. I find that the low to mid-range power is much better this way.

I currently run a Team ORCA VX ESC and a Team ORCA TX 5.0 motor and I have MORE than enough power. IF I feel like I need more power, I can add boost as needed. Usually I've found when the ESC and motor are working together perfectly for the track conditions, the ESC and motor temperatures are pretty similar.

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Old 12-21-2013, 04:56 PM   #600
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LloydLoar View Post
Not sure if anyone is interested, but here is a setup sheet showing what I ran at 5280 raceway this past weekend:

http://chrishillier.com/wp/wp-conten...ec_15_2013.pdf

The car really 'clicked' for me with this setup and I am looking forward to expanding upon it! I am by no means a sedan guru, but I figured I would put this up here anyway just in case anyone is interested.

Due to the miracle of modern technology, you can also check out this link if you want to see what the car looked like on-track:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QjK6ZZniRwo#t=13556

Should be about 3:45 into the video, but the link should get you right there. Body is painted bright green.
Looks EXTREMELY similar to what I'm running right now!
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