Potoczak

iTrader: (120)

WOW. This is great news!!! Hope he does well with the car again. Maybe someday we will see a D07 hara version!

theproffesor

iTrader: (66)

So I have regiukt the diff twice now with new seals and it still feels lick the oil gets thicker as the diff spins, and it leaks. I have fluid being spun out (slowly) all over the place. If I tight the screws all the way doen, the diff feel notchy. If I loosen them just enough to stop that, it leaks. What am I doing wrong?

I also put the gears in boiling water to dye them black (the grey annoyed me). Did this cause this issue. Do I need a new diff housing?

LloydLoar

iTrader: (20)

I have noticed that when I initially build the diff it will feel notchy when spun by hand, but when placed in the car it will feel perfectly fine, especially after being run for a couple packs. I would tighten the screws down and run it.

Also not sure why you dyed the gears, seeing as you can't even see them when the diff is built... If tightening down the screws doesn't stop the leaking, you will likely want to try replacing the housing.

Gridworks Racing

iTrader: (3)

Did you file the back sides of the gears to remove the mould marks? Are you making sure that your differential oil is free of air bubbles prior to differential completion?

After your first run or so, your differentials should be buttery smooth.

Additionally, boiling parts is not necessary to allow them to intake dye; a warm dye solution of around 120° should suffice.

theproffesor

iTrader: (66)

I mispoke before. I deyed the housing and pully gear, not the internals. I will rebuild one more time to after checking what has been previously stated. Also where do I fill fluid to? I dont have a manual.

Charel

I normally only put oil until the + pin is covered by oil, no more.

Gridworks Racing

iTrader: (3)

We have the manual on our site:

http://vbcracingshop.com/product-manuals/

The manual states to fill until the gears are fully submerged, though I do mine a bit differently.

edhchoe

iTrader: (41)

My diff is smooth. Prior to assembly I lightly sanded the backside of all diff gears and the diff housing on 800 grit sand paper on flat surface.
And I tighten the screws all the way without stripping the threads.

I haven't run the car yet so I can't say if it leaks or not. But a leaky gear diff is a big turn off.

I also fill mine until the center section of the cross shaft is submerged. I add some to the shaft ends behind the internal gears to the same level.

theproffesor

iTrader: (66)

Thanks for the link. But how do you do yours differently?

Reese Bobby

I agree with VBC Racing Shop, found it to work well and yield buttery smooth results.

Use 1000 grit sandpaper and rub the back of the gear in a circular motion to remove flashing and get it smooth. Remove +- 0.1mm material from each gear. This will help remove high points and ease the mesh a little when fully assembled.

Use it, don't use it...

Gridworks Racing

iTrader: (3)

I use a shock pump to help remove the air bubbles in the differential.
I also fill the differential and then place the final gear on top and wipe away the excess prior to screwing the differential.

When reassembling the differential, I thread the screws in almost all of the way, rotate the gears and wipe away any excess oil.

A gear differential that is leaky, dirty or has an insufficient level of fluid will cause erratic and inconsistent handling. If you ever have a car that just one day seems to be handling strangely, think about whether you changed your diff fluid lately.

Reese Bobby

I'm looking forward to see how Hara does with the D06. He can pretty much kick ass with any chassis though. Hoping he will post his setup, find it interesting to see how they differ.

Has anyone run a D06 with the Team Powers 34 Spec rubber on asphalt?

theproffesor

iTrader: (66)

So basically you fill the diff to the top plus some and clean excess? When I tried that before, it just seems way too tight for the 2k oil I am running. But ill try it again tonight. Thanks for the help.

Gridworks Racing

iTrader: (3)

Yep, they are actually a decent tire. They were the handout tire for the Reedy race last year and I believe that they will be again. They are definitely usable on asphalt and are pretty good for the first couple of runs.

Yes, and I rotate the gears to allow any excess to be released through the screw holes before the screws have been fully threaded.

inpuressa

iTrader: (10)

Sand the gears a little with a 400 grit so they are flat on the back side. But don't over do it. I first pour a little diff oil into the housing, then press in the sun gear. This will ensure the oil will be trapped between the sun gear, pin, and housing. I then pour a little more oil so that the sun gear becomes submerged. Then I place the four smaller gears in, and rotate the gears to get it coated with oil. I also put some oil into the small area behind the small sun gears where the cross shaft fit into. I always use the "fill just above the cross shaft". Overfilling will cause too much pressure build up, and eventually force oil to come out of the seals. I like to use green slime for the gasket. I then close it up, and tighten the screws evenly, being careful not to over tighten it. The gear diff on the VBC is leak proof to this day