DBM

Thanks for the info, Korey! I'll have to give the new V3 parts a try, and keep the v2 parts as spares. Good to hear about the new parts being made to tighter tolerances. The slop in my v2 c-hubs in the lower pin bore is pretty bad. I've always loved the machining on the vbc cars, but have often thought that some of the plastic parts left a bit to be desired.
The outer border of my local track is made from 2x4's up against concrete walls. They are very unforgiving. After breaking 1 kit c-hub, I swapped in the v2 parts and they have taken a few good hits and have survived.
Hopefully the new rear hubs are better than the d06 kit parts. Out of the box, my d06 had 4 degrees toe on one side and 3 degrees on the other. I typically prefer 2.5 degrees rear toe, so I bought 0.5 degree EMR rear uprights and run c10 split blocks with the E30 rr mount. Rear toe is still not 2.5 (it is closer to 3 degrees), but at least it is the same on each side now. I might buy a e25 rear mount to try to lessen the rear toe a tad (or maybe just machine a part on my manual mini mill for testing first).

69rotang

iTrader: (5)

Yes, I also found inconsistent rear toe on my D06's as well. My D07 is spot on.

Korey Harbke

iTrader: (13)

They should be better. It's an entirely new mold. I've noticed its a little bit how I tighten up the suspension blocks, and sometimes variance in the plastic parts. Mine seemed pretty close (but I have not measured it).

Its a common problem on a lot of cars surprisingly. It's general rooted to how the plastic cools and when the part is ejected from the mold.

-Korey

LloydLoar

iTrader: (20)

I am looking to sell one of my D06 kits. Lots of spares and extra parts for an awesome price. Link below:

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...-w-extras.html

I am also looking to sell a pair of EMR Factory 0.5 degree rear uprights. Link below:

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...l#post13725231

RandR

iTrader: (3)

Has anyone raced the new D07 and have any feedback

DBM

Tidied up the wiring a bit in my d06. Tucked the motor wires, rerouted the esc lead and switch lead out the side of the esc case. Transponder wiring goes under the servo and between the lower bulkheads.

ViperZ

iTrader: (5)

Looks great Dennis! Awesome job!

DBM

Thanks, Bing! Your immaculate wiring jobs on your cars is my inspiration. I don't think I will ever be able to achieve the same level of tidiness as you, but I can try.

CamLS

iTrader: (3)

+1

Bing gives us some serious inspiration with his tidy wiring jobs! His crazy good photos help too

ViperZ

iTrader: (5)

Thanks Dennis! Your cars are looking pretty amazing themselves, so I would say you've done it


Thanks Cam! You guys are an inspiration too, with your great driving skills, tuning help and general assistance in help me become more consistent and faster . See you all on the track!

Akhor

iTrader: (8)

Doesn't the transponder wire pinch under the floating servo mount? Doesn't look like there is enough space there...

DBM

I milled my aluminum chassis 0.75mm under the lipo and electronics, so there is adequate clearance now.

ViperZ

iTrader: (5)

^^^ Problem beautifully solved

NItrox416

somebody tried the smokem d06 chassis with yokomo motor mount?
Do you know precisely what have changed with new upperdeck in the position of bulkheads?
Thanks for help

patorz31

The truth I didn't notice any change with the chassis kit. I think you need the Smokem top deck to run their motor mount and maybe the Yokomo one. I am running the stock deck on the smokem chassis with the stock motor mount. My Yokomo mount is somewhere between Hong kong and Edmonton Ab Canada. When it arrives I will post up some pics of how it all works.