2LikesHoBao H4E Pro touring car kit
03-24-2015, 04:54 AM
#916
You have to review this forum. There are numerous tips and parts recommended. It's only 60 pages. A custom Kydex front bumper with Parma foam glued on top to match your body contour is the no.1 upgrade.
This car is simple the best chassis available at any expense and it's the least expensive($300) with dual cardans included.
If anyone asks why just tell them green is your favorite color and go kick some arse.
03-27-2015, 06:44 AM
#917
Tech Regular
The losi shock bladders are a must
And id recommend the steel out drives for the spool.
Kydex bumper with an xray super hard foam bumper works well for me, but i put this on the same time i got the gen 3 knuckles so i cant be sure if my breakages have stopped due to the new parts or the kydex bumper, either way im happy and have no breaks anymore.
And id recommend the steel out drives for the spool.
Kydex bumper with an xray super hard foam bumper works well for me, but i put this on the same time i got the gen 3 knuckles so i cant be sure if my breakages have stopped due to the new parts or the kydex bumper, either way im happy and have no breaks anymore.
03-29-2015, 12:13 PM
#918
Tech Adept
iTrader: (23)
Fyi I ordered a bunch of parts. All the plastic suspension parts, as well as some other stuff. From nitro house. Like 4 items said they were back ordered when I placed my order online last sun. Wednesday all items I ordered were in my mailbox including all items listed as backordered, weird.. But I'm really happy,
I like the car a lot I want to build one for VTA now, I have a USGT car but I want to try VTA.
If anyone has a H4 roller they want to part with, let me know. I plan on running these for a long time.
I like the car a lot I want to build one for VTA now, I have a USGT car but I want to try VTA.
If anyone has a H4 roller they want to part with, let me know. I plan on running these for a long time.
03-30-2015, 02:21 PM
#920
Tech Regular
What droop are people running?
When I say droop I mean on the droop gauge measured under the wishbone.
When I say droop I mean on the droop gauge measured under the wishbone.
03-30-2015, 06:48 PM
#921
I now use a long ride height gauge that is just angled with no steps. I take off all race wheels and install set up wheels/disks placing the car on a flat level surface. I slide the ride height gauge under the exact rear on the center of the chassis. The measurement when the set up wheels just lift from the surface subtracting the measurement when the gauge make contact with the chassis is the rear droop. Same is done for the front. Both tires must lift together. This method makes sense and is actually the droop measurement in mm. Now it's possible to understand and can be communicated to other people accurately.
It's just measuring how much lift from a resting position is required on the center line of the chassis until the tires break clear from the surface. One important thing here is that both tires break the surface together.
Hope this makes sense to you it's the easiest method for me to understand.
Using this method 5mm rear and 3mm front is a good droop starting point.
Droop is a very good tuning tool that will translate to changes that you can actually feel on the track. Droop allows easy tuning of weight transfer which has a large affect on handling.
03-31-2015, 01:16 AM
#922
Tech Regular
Right so I've just tested this method.
The first thing I came across was that even though when I set my droop with a droop gauge the same both sides, when I lift the car using your method one wheel lifts before the other.
In this situation would you alter the opposite end shocker to level it out, or would you just alter the droop until both wheels lift at the same time?
The first thing I came across was that even though when I set my droop with a droop gauge the same both sides, when I lift the car using your method one wheel lifts before the other.
In this situation would you alter the opposite end shocker to level it out, or would you just alter the droop until both wheels lift at the same time?
03-31-2015, 04:29 AM
#923
Right so I've just tested this method.
The first thing I came across was that even though when I set my droop with a droop gauge the same both sides, when I lift the car using your method one wheel lifts before the other.
In this situation would you alter the opposite end shocker to level it out, or would you just alter the droop until both wheels lift at the same time?
The first thing I came across was that even though when I set my droop with a droop gauge the same both sides, when I lift the car using your method one wheel lifts before the other.
In this situation would you alter the opposite end shocker to level it out, or would you just alter the droop until both wheels lift at the same time?
03-31-2015, 05:23 AM
#924
Let's not confuse droop with tweak. Droop will affect tweak when using the old pan car penny/dime method of setting tweak. I believe tweak should be adjusted with the suspension being preloaded by the weight of the car as it is on the track.
The first thing is to make sure your car is balanced along the center line. Add weight on the left or right until it does balance along the center line. I usually move hardware around to obtain balance and then you can tune with weight later if needed.
Next, making sure all shock springs have the same preload use some type of balance beam to set tweak and not the old penny/dime method. I never adjust this using shock spring preload. I loosen the top plate and twist the chassis and then tighten until the tweak is set. I usually slot the top plate holes a bit(left to right) to make adjusting easier. Our car has button head screws to secure the top plate so that's perfect.
If you can afford scales and don't mind messing around for hours they probably are the most accurate method for setting balance and tweak. Just like NASCAR.
Now set the droop.
The first thing is to make sure your car is balanced along the center line. Add weight on the left or right until it does balance along the center line. I usually move hardware around to obtain balance and then you can tune with weight later if needed.
Next, making sure all shock springs have the same preload use some type of balance beam to set tweak and not the old penny/dime method. I never adjust this using shock spring preload. I loosen the top plate and twist the chassis and then tighten until the tweak is set. I usually slot the top plate holes a bit(left to right) to make adjusting easier. Our car has button head screws to secure the top plate so that's perfect.
If you can afford scales and don't mind messing around for hours they probably are the most accurate method for setting balance and tweak. Just like NASCAR.
Now set the droop.
03-31-2015, 01:44 PM
#925
Tech Regular
Let's not confuse droop with tweak. Droop will affect tweak when using the old pan car penny/dime method of setting tweak. I believe tweak should be adjusted with the suspension being preloaded by the weight of the car as it is on the track.
The first thing is to make sure your car is balanced along the center line. Add weight on the left or right until it does balance along the center line. I usually move hardware around to obtain balance and then you can tune with weight later if needed.
Next, making sure all shock springs have the same preload use some type of balance beam to set tweak and not the old penny/dime method. I never adjust this using shock spring preload. I loosen the top plate and twist the chassis and then tighten until the tweak is set. I usually slot the top plate holes a bit(left to right) to make adjusting easier. Our car has button head screws to secure the top plate so that's perfect.
If you can afford scales and don't mind messing around for hours they probably are the most accurate method for setting balance and tweak. Just like NASCAR.
Now set the droop.
The first thing is to make sure your car is balanced along the center line. Add weight on the left or right until it does balance along the center line. I usually move hardware around to obtain balance and then you can tune with weight later if needed.
Next, making sure all shock springs have the same preload use some type of balance beam to set tweak and not the old penny/dime method. I never adjust this using shock spring preload. I loosen the top plate and twist the chassis and then tighten until the tweak is set. I usually slot the top plate holes a bit(left to right) to make adjusting easier. Our car has button head screws to secure the top plate so that's perfect.
If you can afford scales and don't mind messing around for hours they probably are the most accurate method for setting balance and tweak. Just like NASCAR.
Now set the droop.
I'll try that method with tweak, in the past I've always loosened the top deck to make sure the chassis is flat and then use the the shock preload to take out any tweak.
04-01-2015, 07:36 PM
#926
I think more preload on one side with the shock spring will equate to different turning characteristics during active compression on the track. That's why I always try to keep L & R preloads the same.
04-02-2015, 01:01 PM
#927
Tech Regular
Makes sense, I am going to reset and try your method Again.
My setup board has a balance board attachment but I've no idea how accurate it is as there's no spirit level, so just have to go by eye.
Ideally a set of scales would be perfect but I just can't afford to goto that length just yet.
anybody seen anything of those 3 hole knuckles which were been tested?
My setup board has a balance board attachment but I've no idea how accurate it is as there's no spirit level, so just have to go by eye.
Ideally a set of scales would be perfect but I just can't afford to goto that length just yet.
anybody seen anything of those 3 hole knuckles which were been tested?
04-02-2015, 02:51 PM
#928
They also have a target type disk bubble that can be permanently attached to the board(does all axes) and then the line level could be attached to the beam.
Better yet this is a pretty good deal: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXRTZ9&P=7
04-12-2015, 07:33 AM
#929
Tech Regular
How do I get more turn in without turning the steering up?
I have never messed with ackerman, still on kit settings. 1 degree toe out on front.
I have never messed with ackerman, still on kit settings. 1 degree toe out on front.
04-12-2015, 04:01 PM
#930
