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Old 03-24-2015, 04:54 AM   #916
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Thanks for the input fellas. How do I know what are gen 3 front end parts? Is there any additional replacements that are a must on the car. ie: shocks etc.
If you get a new kit from NitroHouse/TQ/Tower it most likely will have all the latest parts.

You have to review this forum. There are numerous tips and parts recommended. It's only 60 pages. A custom Kydex front bumper with Parma foam glued on top to match your body contour is the no.1 upgrade.

This car is simple the best chassis available at any expense and it's the least expensive($300) with dual cardans included.

If anyone asks why just tell them green is your favorite color and go kick some arse.
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Old 03-27-2015, 06:44 AM   #917
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The losi shock bladders are a must

And id recommend the steel out drives for the spool.

Kydex bumper with an xray super hard foam bumper works well for me, but i put this on the same time i got the gen 3 knuckles so i cant be sure if my breakages have stopped due to the new parts or the kydex bumper, either way im happy and have no breaks anymore.
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Old 03-29-2015, 12:13 PM   #918
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Fyi I ordered a bunch of parts. All the plastic suspension parts, as well as some other stuff. From nitro house. Like 4 items said they were back ordered when I placed my order online last sun. Wednesday all items I ordered were in my mailbox including all items listed as backordered, weird.. But I'm really happy,

I like the car a lot I want to build one for VTA now, I have a USGT car but I want to try VTA.

If anyone has a H4 roller they want to part with, let me know. I plan on running these for a long time.
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Old 03-29-2015, 02:31 PM   #919
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Just in between this car and the AE 6.2. I need to get parts from my LHS. They stock the AE car
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Old 03-30-2015, 02:21 PM   #920
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What droop are people running?

When I say droop I mean on the droop gauge measured under the wishbone.
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Old 03-30-2015, 06:48 PM   #921
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What droop are people running?

When I say droop I mean on the droop gauge measured under the wishbone.
I got away from droop gauges and blocks. I found that confusing. Bigger droop gauge numbers translate to less actual droop and vice versa. Numbers vary a lot depending on the exact place where measurements are taken. Communicating droop numbers to different people will probably mean different things.

I now use a long ride height gauge that is just angled with no steps. I take off all race wheels and install set up wheels/disks placing the car on a flat level surface. I slide the ride height gauge under the exact rear on the center of the chassis. The measurement when the set up wheels just lift from the surface subtracting the measurement when the gauge make contact with the chassis is the rear droop. Same is done for the front. Both tires must lift together. This method makes sense and is actually the droop measurement in mm. Now it's possible to understand and can be communicated to other people accurately.

It's just measuring how much lift from a resting position is required on the center line of the chassis until the tires break clear from the surface. One important thing here is that both tires break the surface together.

Hope this makes sense to you it's the easiest method for me to understand.

Using this method 5mm rear and 3mm front is a good droop starting point.

Droop is a very good tuning tool that will translate to changes that you can actually feel on the track. Droop allows easy tuning of weight transfer which has a large affect on handling.
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Old 03-31-2015, 01:16 AM   #922
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Right so I've just tested this method.

The first thing I came across was that even though when I set my droop with a droop gauge the same both sides, when I lift the car using your method one wheel lifts before the other.

In this situation would you alter the opposite end shocker to level it out, or would you just alter the droop until both wheels lift at the same time?
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Old 03-31-2015, 04:29 AM   #923
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hipwell View Post
Right so I've just tested this method.

The first thing I came across was that even though when I set my droop with a droop gauge the same both sides, when I lift the car using your method one wheel lifts before the other.

In this situation would you alter the opposite end shocker to level it out, or would you just alter the droop until both wheels lift at the same time?
I had the same problem. Make sure your chassis is free of any tweak.
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Old 03-31-2015, 05:23 AM   #924
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Let's not confuse droop with tweak. Droop will affect tweak when using the old pan car penny/dime method of setting tweak. I believe tweak should be adjusted with the suspension being preloaded by the weight of the car as it is on the track.

The first thing is to make sure your car is balanced along the center line. Add weight on the left or right until it does balance along the center line. I usually move hardware around to obtain balance and then you can tune with weight later if needed.

Next, making sure all shock springs have the same preload use some type of balance beam to set tweak and not the old penny/dime method. I never adjust this using shock spring preload. I loosen the top plate and twist the chassis and then tighten until the tweak is set. I usually slot the top plate holes a bit(left to right) to make adjusting easier. Our car has button head screws to secure the top plate so that's perfect.

If you can afford scales and don't mind messing around for hours they probably are the most accurate method for setting balance and tweak. Just like NASCAR.

Now set the droop.
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Old 03-31-2015, 01:44 PM   #925
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Let's not confuse droop with tweak. Droop will affect tweak when using the old pan car penny/dime method of setting tweak. I believe tweak should be adjusted with the suspension being preloaded by the weight of the car as it is on the track.

The first thing is to make sure your car is balanced along the center line. Add weight on the left or right until it does balance along the center line. I usually move hardware around to obtain balance and then you can tune with weight later if needed.

Next, making sure all shock springs have the same preload use some type of balance beam to set tweak and not the old penny/dime method. I never adjust this using shock spring preload. I loosen the top plate and twist the chassis and then tighten until the tweak is set. I usually slot the top plate holes a bit(left to right) to make adjusting easier. Our car has button head screws to secure the top plate so that's perfect.

If you can afford scales and don't mind messing around for hours they probably are the most accurate method for setting balance and tweak. Just like NASCAR.

Now set the droop.
Thanks that's a great guide.

I'll try that method with tweak, in the past I've always loosened the top deck to make sure the chassis is flat and then use the the shock preload to take out any tweak.
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Old 04-01-2015, 07:36 PM   #926
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I'll try that method with tweak, in the past I've always loosened the top deck to make sure the chassis is flat and then use the the shock preload to take out any tweak.
Theoretically A flat chassis should have no tweak but that is seldom true. Weight distribution and less than a perfectly balanced chassis flex are usually the culprits contributing to tweak.

I think more preload on one side with the shock spring will equate to different turning characteristics during active compression on the track. That's why I always try to keep L & R preloads the same.
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Old 04-02-2015, 01:01 PM   #927
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Makes sense, I am going to reset and try your method Again.

My setup board has a balance board attachment but I've no idea how accurate it is as there's no spirit level, so just have to go by eye.

Ideally a set of scales would be perfect but I just can't afford to goto that length just yet.

anybody seen anything of those 3 hole knuckles which were been tested?
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Old 04-02-2015, 02:51 PM   #928
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Makes sense, I am going to reset and try your method Again.

My setup board has a balance board attachment but I've no idea how accurate it is as there's no spirit level, so just have to go by eye.
Lowes, Home Depot etc have small inexpensive line levels. Just place one on your board and level it(x & y axis) then on the beam to check tweak. Board has to be level to be accurate.

They also have a target type disk bubble that can be permanently attached to the board(does all axes) and then the line level could be attached to the beam.

Better yet this is a pretty good deal: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXRTZ9&P=7
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Old 04-12-2015, 07:33 AM   #929
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How do I get more turn in without turning the steering up?

I have never messed with ackerman, still on kit settings. 1 degree toe out on front.
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Old 04-12-2015, 04:01 PM   #930
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Quote:
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How do I get more turn in without turning the steering up?

I have never messed with ackerman, still on kit settings. 1 degree toe out on front.
Do you use compound on your tires?
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