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Old 12-16-2014, 06:40 PM   #781
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I'm really leaning toward getting one of these. I'd like to make the venture into asphalt 17.5 this spring at the track in Jackson, NJ....ANYWAY....I was wondering, now that the H4 has been out awhile how it is fairing against the new " '15 " models, i.e., the T4 '15, BD7 '15, TRF 419, etc...the price of the H4 is so right, I can't see hiking over the extra dough for those kits, esp being a complete noob, but I do want to be semi competitive (driver/ing skills not withstanding of course).
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Old 12-17-2014, 04:28 PM   #782
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I'm really leaning toward getting one of these. I'd like to make the venture into asphalt 17.5 this spring at the track in Jackson, NJ....ANYWAY....I was wondering, now that the H4 has been out awhile how it is fairing against the new " '15 " models, i.e., the T4 '15, BD7 '15, TRF 419, etc...the price of the H4 is so right, I can't see hiking over the extra dough for those kits, esp being a complete noob, but I do want to be semi competitive (driver/ing skills not withstanding of course).
Mostly depends on the skill of owner pertaining to set up and driving. I don't really see much advantage in any of the up to date competition chassis over the H4. The $900 Awesomatix might have an advantage in the drive train drag category and some cars might be a bit more durable out of the box. I have had top of the line Associated, Serpent and Xray cars. I like the H4 best for many reasons.

Just make sure you review this forum for all the fixes and recommended upgrades.
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Old 12-17-2014, 06:09 PM   #783
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Thanks for the reply. That's good to hear that after more than a year it can still be fast...driver skill not withstanding of course
Being brand new to on-road I want to feel comfortable that I won't be wasting my time learning on an outdated chassis...I have indeed read through the forum and your name has been there since the beginning and value your opinion I'm taking a lot of notes.
Thanks again for the reply!
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Mostly depends on the skill of owner pertaining to set up and driving. I don't really see much advantage in any of the up to date competition chassis over the H4. The $900 Awesomatix might have an advantage in the drive train drag category and some cars might be a bit more durable out of the box. I have had top of the line Associated, Serpent and Xray cars. I like the H4 best for many reasons.

Just make sure you review this forum for all the fixes and recommended upgrades.
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Old 12-17-2014, 08:52 PM   #784
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Hi,
Anyone upgraded to ceramic bearings if so what brand did you use?
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Old 12-18-2014, 06:50 AM   #785
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Originally Posted by rcwck View Post
Mostly depends on the skill of owner pertaining to set up and driving. I don't really see much advantage in any of the up to date competition chassis over the H4. The $900 Awesomatix might have an advantage in the drive train drag category and some cars might be a bit more durable out of the box. I have had top of the line Associated, Serpent and Xray cars. I like the H4 best for many reasons.

Just make sure you review this forum for all the fixes and recommended upgrades.
+1! I run the kit and have plans on going to Horsham this weekend to get advice on set up. I'm new to racing (Started this past summer). I love the kit and can't wait to get more competitive with it.
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Old 12-18-2014, 08:01 AM   #786
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I totally forgot about Horsham this weekend and have other plans. Otherwise Id drive down with mine too, I also have a ton to learn. (Like how to stop hitting walls)
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Old 12-24-2014, 07:34 AM   #787
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Hi,
Anyone upgraded to ceramic bearings if so what brand did you use?
I don't think the material for sedan bearings matters as much as maintenance. All bearings require checking for lube and free spinning. Ceramics cost about 5 times as much as steel bearings and they do worse on wall/board hits. I use the $1.00 each bearings and lube/replace/inspect them often.

I believe how the bearing is sealed/shielded/maintained has the biggest effect on the rolling resistance.
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Last edited by rcwck; 12-24-2014 at 10:23 AM.
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Old 12-25-2014, 09:00 AM   #788
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Has anyone tried the 2.5mm chassis? What's the purpose of the extra .2mm?
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Old 12-26-2014, 02:31 AM   #789
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I'm just in the process of building my kit.

What diff positions do you lot use? My manual says 12 o clock for diff and spool but this does feel rather tight.
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Old 12-26-2014, 06:48 AM   #790
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I'm just in the process of building my kit.

What diff positions do you lot use? My manual says 12 o clock for diff and spool but this does feel rather tight.
I've got mine two notches to the loose side from 12 oclock front and rear.
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Old 12-26-2014, 12:05 PM   #791
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Cool I'll try that, currently got it at 1 o clock but still feels a tad tight.

Where does everybody measure their droop from?

I usually use a ride height gauge or droop gauge and measure with the car flat on a setup board with no wheels on and measure from the lowest point on the hub.

I'm aiming for 5mm front droop but doing so there's hardly any up travel.
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Old 12-27-2014, 05:32 PM   #792
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Another issue I have just come across is that even with the rear shocks wound all the way up the lowest I can get my ride height is 5.5mm. Ideally I want 5mm.

I'm using the short plastic bit on the end of the shock and it's wound all the way to the last thread.
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Old 12-27-2014, 10:23 PM   #793
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hipwell View Post
Another issue I have just come across is that even with the rear shocks wound all the way up the lowest I can get my ride height is 5.5mm. Ideally I want 5mm.

I'm using the short plastic bit on the end of the shock and it's wound all the way to the last thread.
That's odd. Check your droop screws.
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Old 12-28-2014, 03:59 AM   #794
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Droop is set to 5mm
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Old 12-28-2014, 06:47 PM   #795
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hipwell View Post
Another issue I have just come across is that even with the rear shocks wound all the way up the lowest I can get my ride height is 5.5mm. Ideally I want 5mm.

I'm using the short plastic bit on the end of the shock and it's wound all the way to the last thread.
There's lotsa factors that play into obtaining that 5mm ride height. The short piston shaft ends screwed on all the way is just one factor. The shock angles, the stiffness of the shock springs and the weight of the car are some other factors.

I have on some occasions on this car cut the spring length to obtain that 5mm ride height. I have only had to cut 1/2 winding off the springs to get to that 5mm number. After cutting the spring I reshape that cut end as best as possible to a flat end coil and always place that cut end on the shock first. Make sure that both shock springs are the same length after cutting/shaping.

Droop can be confusing. If you use a droop gauge and blocks the bigger the number becomes on the gauge the less droop you have. Droop is how far the chassis is lifted in mm when the tires just lift off the set up board. This lifting is from the center of the front and rear of the chassis one at a time. The chassis must remain parallel to the set up board left to right.

The starting point I like is 3mm front and 5mm rear. Droop is a very good tuning devise to help with car driving characteristics. I am always messing with droop. It's absolutely important for left and right settings to be the same.
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