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Old 03-07-2014, 03:24 PM   #616
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Yes 29 should fit as i ran 84 30 on mine but different motors can effect what will fit.
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Old 03-07-2014, 11:58 PM   #617
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Yes 29 should fit as i ran 84 30 on mine but different motors can effect what will fit.
Thank You. I think i use a standard motor. This is the one I use
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Old 03-08-2014, 02:03 AM   #618
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Should be ok. Its the ridge around the shaft at the end that can affect it
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Old 03-08-2014, 06:16 AM   #619
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Did some tuning on the car last night at a local Club race. Had run hard Springs all the way around two weeks ago at the vta nationals. Lots less traction last night. ran the soft gray Springs and car darted all over when turning. decided on the stock white Springs up front and the soft gray in the rear. car drove awesome! my fast laps were only .05 seconds behind the "fast" guys. ended up qualifying 3rd in the a main and finishing there. Just proving to everyone that the hobao can compete with the likes of xray and awesomatix at a fraction of the cost.
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Old 03-08-2014, 08:30 AM   #620
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Did some tuning on the car last night at a local Club race. Had run hard Springs all the way around two weeks ago at the vta nationals. Lots less traction last night. ran the soft gray Springs and car darted all over when turning. decided on the stock white Springs up front and the soft gray in the rear. car drove awesome! my fast laps were only .05 seconds behind the "fast" guys. ended up qualifying 3rd in the a main and finishing there. Just proving to everyone that the hobao can compete with the likes of xray and awesomatix at a fraction of the cost.
Thanks for share this. I noticed about the rear traction. I would try this.
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Old 03-08-2014, 02:56 PM   #621
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Interesting about the springs. Ive not played around with them yet
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Old 03-09-2014, 09:55 AM   #622
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I also agree that this car is definitely able to keep up. My only issue was with the durability of this car. I recently did get a set of the new aluminum steering knuckles and am using them with the plastic c-hubs. Now I'm wondering if I should have gotten it the other way around and got the aluminum c-hubs and use them with the plastic steering knuckles. But I'm thinking that the c-hubs would bend easier than the steering knuckles. Anybody out there have any thoughts on this?
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Old 03-09-2014, 06:05 PM   #623
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I always thought the outer steering knuckle would be the one to get in aluminum. That way if the inner c-hub breaks, u don't lose the king pins. I've spent too many times looking for those after a bad crash.
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Old 03-10-2014, 07:10 AM   #624
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These small precision bearings should be a finger push fit. In an aluminum part custom fitting usually is required which includes material removal, shimming and/or gluing. If the fit is too tight the bearing will be bound up if too loose lotsa slope will develop. Aluminum also offers very little vibration or impact absorption. The best method is to engineer a plastic bearing insert holder into the aluminum part. I am particular about bearings as they are a big performance factor and are often neglected. They should be butter smooove.

I have broke no parts since installing the aluminum chubs and keeping the plastic spindles. I have bent the aluminum chubs slightly a few times, but they are easily tweaked back into place with needle nose pliers without removing any parts. A twisted chub is easily viewed from the top and realigned.

This car is still the quickest in all sedan classes at our local carpet track. It'll be interesting to see how this car stacks up at the Canadian Nats this coming weekend.
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Old 03-10-2014, 07:42 PM   #625
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Anyone run this car on asphalt and/or with a hot 3.5 or 5.5 motor?
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Old 03-10-2014, 07:47 PM   #626
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My BIL just picked up one of these.

The shocks are a little different to most I've built before, the little air bleeder on the top cap being constantly open I've never seen before.

When the shocks are built, you have to wind the retaining collar down a LONG way to ensure the spring is captive due to the length of the shock shaft - is that normal?

There are some 1mm or so plastic shims in the bag, using these as bump stops improves it a little, but still not ideal.
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Old 03-10-2014, 09:18 PM   #627
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cplus View Post
My BIL just picked up one of these.

The shocks are a little different to most I've built before, the little air bleeder on the top cap being constantly open I've never seen before.

When the shocks are built, you have to wind the retaining collar down a LONG way to ensure the spring is captive due to the length of the shock shaft - is that normal?

There are some 1mm or so plastic shims in the bag, using these as bump stops improves it a little, but still not ideal.
That bleed hole is located in the side of the cap and is sealed when the shock is tightened.

Not sure about your statement "spring being captive". You have to use the short shock shaft end and screw it on most of the way. I have heard recently of these ends cracking when being screwed on to the shock shaft so if it feels like a tight fit a drilling out might be in order. I have 2 of these cars and none of the preload threaded shock nuts are threaded very far down on the shock bodies. Make sure your suspension and/or shocks are not bound up. That first plastic spacer on the shock shaft seal assembly is a snap fit. I had some trouble there on my first build.
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Old 03-10-2014, 10:15 PM   #628
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By captive, I mean that you need to wind down the collar to engage the spring.

And yes, those short shaft ends do split. He managed to do that first go. Oops. The log or short won't make a difference to the problem I'm trying to describe. Think of it as fit he spring seems too short. Once it is mounted to the tower and the arms it will be fine though. There are no spare oft he short ones, so he is using the long for now. I gave him my 3mm tap to use to help alleviate the splitting issue.

Oh, and thanks for the explanation on the bleed hole
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Old 03-11-2014, 05:34 AM   #629
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Quote:
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By captive, I mean that you need to wind down the collar to engage the spring.

And yes, those short shaft ends do split. He managed to do that first go. Oops. The log or short won't make a difference to the problem I'm trying to describe. Think of it as fit he spring seems too short. Once it is mounted to the tower and the arms it will be fine though. There are no spare oft he short ones, so he is using the long for now. I gave him my 3mm tap to use to help alleviate the splitting issue.
Extended shock length mounted on the car is controlled by the droop screws. It doesn't matter much when not mounted on the vehicle and isn't a problem.

I believe you can cut down the long shock end and convert it to the short style.

To tap out the ends is a good fix but a regular taper tap may not do the complete job. A plug or bottom tap would be the best choice. I have at times cut down a taper tap with a cutting wheel to convert it to a bottoming tap.

Most of the plastic sockets are too tight of a fit. They are easily freed up by giving them a pinch while installed on the ball with needle nose pliers. I prefer them to be fitted in this manner rather than have them sloppy lose.
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Old 03-11-2014, 08:09 AM   #630
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Extended shock length mounted on the car is controlled by the droop screws. It doesn't matter much when not mounted on the vehicle and isn't a problem.
That's exactly what I told him just making sure it is normal. Only other shocks I've built recently are TRF - very different design overall.

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I believe you can cut down the long shock end and convert it to the short style.
Yes, looks to be a simple case of sniping them.

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To tap out the ends is a good fix but a regular taper tap may not do the complete job. A plug or bottom tap would be the best choice. I have at times cut down a taper tap with a cutting wheel to convert it to a bottoming tap.
Tamiya M3x5.0 tap. Perfect for the job it's a bottom tap.
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