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Old 01-14-2014, 06:10 PM   #511
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Ohhh, the rear hubs are nice.

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Old 01-15-2014, 12:30 AM   #512
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Ohhh pretty.

How did you.use tape for holding your battery in, did you just feed it through the slots the magic strap is supposed to go through
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Old 01-15-2014, 12:30 AM   #513
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Doh

Last edited by scytherat; 01-15-2014 at 12:32 AM. Reason: double post
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Old 01-15-2014, 12:11 PM   #514
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Ohhh pretty.

How did you.use tape for holding your battery in, did you just feed it through the slots the magic strap is supposed to go through
I use it basiclly like the velcro strap but in two pieces, I fold the rear one first on the battery then fold the front on over so that the tape isn't flapping around and pealing back, and I fold the ends but I like for the front one to long to stay down as much as possible because I hate changing the tape a alot.
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Old 01-17-2014, 06:42 AM   #515
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Default Best tape method for me

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Ohhh pretty.

How did you.use tape for holding your battery in, did you just feed it through the slots the magic strap is supposed to go through
Velcro simply requires too much tension and will likely preload the chassis. It also adds to the outboard weight. I always put a strip of painter's tape on top of the fiber battery tape for security. I use Frog tape because it continues the color scheme. You can resurrect that old dirty tape with a quick cleaning using motor spray or better yet lighter fluid.

I just installed the aluminum chubs and rear hubs. I'm not a big fan of aluminum hubs that have to hold the axle bearings directly for several reasons but the rear hubs seem to be a common fracture point. Be prepaired to custom fit those rear hub bearings if you want an exact fit. It's just not possible to get a perfect finger pressure fit because of machining/manufacturing tolerances. Plastic adapters between the aluminum hub and bearing is the better method. You can scrape, peen, build up with ca, and use plastic bags as shim material.

For those anal gram builders the rear hubs and chubs are 1 gram heavier each than their plastic twins. Lol

Let's try to keep this forum rolling/active...............
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Old 01-17-2014, 10:42 AM   #516
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I didn't have a problem with getting the bearings on ,they slid right in, of course I put fresh bearings, the best thing about them though is there is a cutout to apply a tool to push the bearings out when they need to be replaced and the cuts are in two different areas so when getting them out is easy.

Same goes for the front knuckles as the also have the cutouts for the bearings.
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Old 01-17-2014, 11:59 AM   #517
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I didn't have a problem with getting the bearings on ,they slid right in, of course I put fresh bearings, the best thing about them though is there is a cutout to apply a tool to push the bearings out when they need to be replaced and the cuts are in two different areas so when getting them out is easy.

Same goes for the front knuckles as the also have the cutouts for the bearings.
finally some great thinking about cut outs for bearing removal. idk how many times I've had to beat a bad bearing out of a hub with a screw driver and hammer. mainly on my off road stuff. But a+ on the cutouts.
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Old 01-17-2014, 06:55 PM   #518
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I have a problem with the front cvd its wobbling after a hit. How to fix it?
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Old 01-18-2014, 06:01 AM   #519
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I have a problem with the front cvd its wobbling after a hit. How to fix it?
it usually breaks the little tab off the end of the dog bone part of the cvd. Can either pull the spring clip off and replace the dog bone or buy a new axle. Just my .02 based on what mine did when I clipped a board.
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Old 01-18-2014, 11:15 AM   #520
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Yep as edonsohc said. Or if the ball hasnt snapped the shaft may have bent. Hobao are re designing them. Im running a pair of rear steel cvds in the front and so far so good they are doing ok
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Old 01-18-2014, 02:32 PM   #521
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it usually breaks the little tab off the end of the dog bone part of the cvd. Can either pull the spring clip off and replace the dog bone or buy a new axle. Just my .02 based on what mine did when I clipped a board.
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Yep as edonsohc said. Or if the ball hasnt snapped the shaft may have bent. Hobao are re designing them. Im running a pair of rear steel cvds in the front and so far so good they are doing ok
Thanks!
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Old 01-21-2014, 07:02 AM   #522
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Default New parts update

I ran the alum chubs and alum rear hubs for the first time last Sunday at our local track. I also had the new beefier plastic steering spindles installed.

I had a massive hit getting on the straight. I glanced off the inside corner and smacked the immovable outside wall very hard with the left side of the car.

I managed to finish that qualifier but I knew something was not right because at times the car did not handle correctly.

Upon inspection the front double joint shaft snapped off that little internal ball and the alum chub had a slight bend in it. The new beefed up plastic spindle survived as did the alum rear hub. You can tell the chub is bent when you try to install the top king pin screw and the two holes(one in the chub and one in the spindle) do not line up. I left the chub attached at the bottom arm and straightened it with pliers until the holes lined up. I also replaced the front drive shaft. That kind of hit would usually break 2-4 parts.

After the repairs the H4 managed to TQ and take the main. I had the same hard hit in the main that took me out the week before but did no damage this time with the updated parts. The body had a left front punched in ding for about half the main but in did not matter.

The funny thing about when that ball snaps in the front drive is that the car mostly handles the same but at times it will do strange things on the track, like wanna spin out off power and push going into the corner. I think the drive shaft locks up at times.

Now all we need is a beefier ball and socket for the front drives.
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Last edited by rcwck; 01-21-2014 at 07:37 AM. Reason: update
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Old 01-22-2014, 06:13 PM   #523
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When these new redesigned CVD's are released, where would one be able to purchase. Would TQ Racing be carrying them, they seem to be the hobby shop to go to for this car. Same goes for the aluminum hub carriers.
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Old 01-22-2014, 07:05 PM   #524
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When these new redesigned CVD's are released, where would one be able to purchase. Would TQ Racing be carrying them, they seem to be the hobby shop to go to for this car. Same goes for the aluminum hub carriers.
-R2- usually will post when they are available with the stock numbers . You have to call NitroHouse with the numbers so they can locate and send them out. Not sure why or how TQ post the parts before NH. They had the cars posted first also.
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Old 01-23-2014, 10:28 AM   #525
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but I was told not to run both together it's an either or thing, "BUT I MIGHT"
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Hubs I have not tried, but I love the knuckles , but like I said I can only put one or the other if I dont want to tweak or break driveshafts on our carpet track
Before I order I want to get this right, So you should only run aluminum hubs by themselves or the aluminum knuckles by themseleves and not both at the same time?
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