-R2-

iTrader: (4)

I also had a really bad crash on Fri at TQ when I had a full on power traction roll gong into the sweeper and bounced into the air hitting the wall and the traction roll on the carpet really caught the suspension and bounced it into the air, I managed to knock off the side wings to the body but no suspension damage, the
TQ track has a new layout and is clearly faster from sweeper to sweeper and I bounced of the angle on to the straight several times no knuckle or c-hub breaking. One thing I did not put on was the set screws on the knuckle, I want to have nothing to limit steering, I don't think its a problem but try that.

THE YARD RC

I am not using the limiting set screws on the knuckles either. Maybe thats the ticket. I don't even use a servo saver!Here in socal the weather is warmer and a cold night consists of 60 to 65 degrees. I'm sure colder weather will make things more brittle.
I love my H4 and if you cant avoid crashing, expect things to break. These cars were not designed for jumps and bumps. Although mine does double the islands nicely!

jdeadman

iTrader: (41)

Oh trust me when you see how "hard" the hit was when it broke you will understand my frustration. I'm not using the limiting screws either. and we race in a warm room ~85 F on carpet with soft plastic boards.

The only other breakage at our track all year was one tc5 that hit a corner at full speed and full lock on the steering and he only hit the wheel on the board so that's the only reason it snapped.


I really hope that I just got the duds from the factory. I have another 6 sets that should be arriving in the next day or so. last chance for this car I'm afraid. once I go through these parts it'll be up on the for sale thread

-R2-

iTrader: (4)

It's funny you say you barley hit some thing and it broke, now its a violent hit, and yes I have broken one and it was the first parts on the car then I put the new units on and nothing since, we did not have the first gen parts out for long and we replaced just as soon as we posted the care packages to customers so the inventory had the update before we sent out replacements to customer, it tough to hear what has been happening to your car, but after all the trial and error I've been doing and trust me I have banged up pretty hard trying to push the car I can't say much.

scytherat

I broke one of the original front hubs and c hubs, i dont use the limiting screws either. I beleive if you crash, no matter how hard eventually something will break. Also i think the type of track and markings can effect how severe a crash is needed to break things. E.g my track.is a tight indoor track with rope markings, although they move when hit them they drag the cars in if they get clipped which i believe is what broke mine. I love my h4 and really believe its as quick if not quicker round a track than my trf417v5 was. Only quibble i have with the car ia the front driveshafts breaking but when my tamiya dcjs arrive im hoping this will be solved

look

I have driven this car for some time now
The people haveing issues with the steering knuckles and C hubs
Breaking are liget
The issues comes when the inner front wheel at full lock catches a borad
On turn in this sheers the knuckle off, it doesn't have to be a hard
Hit slight contact will do it

Manufacture is working on this and should have it resolved soon

I love the car for the price you can't beat it

Lou

-R2-

iTrader: (4)

And the drive shafts are being redone, I have not seen the new ones yet but I'm sure when we get them we will go put some hard runs into them.

Mazinga

iTrader: (10)

The only small complain i find on the design of the car ,its the motor mount hole position, if you want to use 64 pich spur and pinion, setting up the right mesh its a little challenging and time consuming, because you have to lock the motor before you can put back in place the spur gear, a least comparing it to the tc6.1. Also the lipo stop parts its in the way of the pinion and need to be remove before you can pull off the pinion from the rotor of the motor.
I'm currently running 92/53 64p using the xray offset spur gear.
if any one have a fastest way to change the pinion and adjusting the mesh im open to suggestion. thanks

Dasmopar

Hi all.
I have a kit on order now and am looking forward to running a stock sedan. I've recently retired from rc racing awhile back and got sucked right back in after given a chance to drive rcwck's back up car. It's by far the easiest sedan I have ever driven to go fast with. With two practice laps and then running a qualifier I was able to get within a few seconds of rcwck's tq. This is with basically zero rubber tire sedan experience. After that five min run I was hooked!
I did bounce the car off the boards twice and it SURVIVED if you can believe it! I'm pretty sure that car still has to stock harder plastics parts too.

Lon

Dasmopar

Also if it's good enough for look its good enough for me!

look

Hi Lon

Do you have your passport ?

You and Jeff should come up to the speedway this winter
All ways some good racing here

Lou

rcwck

iTrader: (2)

Sedans with the bottom rear motor mount screw makes access far easier for sure. I have never ran or ever seen anyone with that low of a FDR so you probably have an unique situation. You can ream out one of the spur gear holes a bit and use a ball end allen driver for better access. Pretty sure a FDR of 3.5 can be reached with that 92t spur. A ball end allen might make the difference if you haven't used one yet. Those are available also with a good hardened tip.

rcwck

iTrader: (2)

Jeff doesn't have the skill level for sedan carpet racing. Lol

samshirley00

i currently use a 96dp kimbrough spur i sanded down, and when i was doing some compititions, was runing a 47t pinion, and to get the meshing right, i found it easiest to take the upper deck off, check the mesh, then tighten the screws up and make sure it worked again.

scytherat

Anyone who was gonna try tamiya 44mm dcjs they dont fit. The casing of the dcj part is too wide and will press against the c hub and not allow steering