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Old 11-07-2013, 07:11 PM   #286
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I want to change the FDR to something between High 3 low 4. My LHS has Kimbrough spurs but from reading I don't think they fit. What spur gears are you guys using personally?
XRay 92T 64 pitch will do 3.5-4.0 for sure. That's the 17.5 stock good range. It'll be called an offset spur but will work fine. Not sure about 3.0 as never had a use for that FDR.
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Old 11-07-2013, 07:49 PM   #287
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I want to change the FDR to something between High 3 low 4. My LHS has Kimbrough spurs but from reading I don't think they fit. What spur gears are you guys using personally?

I have 100T X 49T in mine, 3.88 FDR.
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Old 11-07-2013, 08:25 PM   #288
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We sell them in rcMart too:

http://goo.gl/ySjQ6j
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Old 11-08-2013, 12:19 PM   #289
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Kimbrough doesn't fit for sure. The gears are too thick to fit in the spur pulley.

This isn't really necessary, but don't forget they also have a 19T belt and pulley option to convert your internal ratio from 1.9 to 2.0 if you prefer. http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ....asp?p_id=6520

I have one and I like the way it feels, but again, just a personal preference.
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Old 11-12-2013, 04:53 AM   #290
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i managed to get tamiya part 54055 - mod 0.4 96t spur to just about fit. can go from a 37t to a 51t now

only problem is the holes are in the way for the motor screws so meshing is a nightmare
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Old 11-12-2013, 07:56 AM   #291
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only problem is the holes are in the way for the motor screws so meshing is a nightmare
I wish the motor mount used one bottom screw like other sedans. That makes mesh adjusting so much easier. It takes the spur interference problems out of the equation with most set ups. Some motor mounts even use the two bottom screws to attach the motor. I use a ball end driver for that rear screw and install/enlarge a hole in the spur for access.
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Old 11-13-2013, 04:01 AM   #292
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was racing it yesterday, 17.5 blinky and my 417 v5 with normal shocks in 13.5 boosted

the hobao was handling better than the trf i swear, keeping up with tc6.1's, mi5's and t4 '14's, the trf was a bit more of a handfull, but it could be down to there being some slop in the front steering hubs, gonna have to shim it out when i can be bothered.

the hobao is running 1.5 degrees camber all round, 0 degrees toe in, 1 1mm shim under the front front toe block, 25wt and 3 hole pistons all round, cant remember of the top of my head the shock angles, but everything apart from those small changes are kit
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Old 11-13-2013, 04:49 PM   #293
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Lots of people (at least 5 or 6 guys) at TQ RC run the H4 locally. I was lucky enough to close out our series in Sportsman Sedan 17.5 and win with this car (I ran the first half of the series on my TC6).

Based on what i've heard from everyone here, one of the most impressive things about the kit they've liked is the impeccable build quality, myself included. I'm sorry to hear about the headaches and hoping it's just a fluke!

Glad to hear Ofna is going to take care of it.
I complete mine in 4hrs, & everything came out perfectly. The car ran great but the front knuckle & c hubs broke very easy when you get hit, & the cvj as well, I change mine into gear diff & the CVD on the front, this combination ran very smooth & I finally got the upgrade pack from OFNA & change out the softer plastic c hubs & knuckle, & seems like problem solve, at least I didn't broke anything from my last race. Thanks OFNA Jeffery for the support.
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Old 11-15-2013, 05:34 PM   #294
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was running mine yesterday, 17.5 blinky on a tight track, qualified 2nd, and was leading the race until the front right CVD snapped. Is this a known issue? are there any other CVD's that will fit?
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Old 11-17-2013, 08:36 PM   #295
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Yeah, the dogbone is Super thin. I think they should probably beef them up a little bit. For the time being, though, I'm just gonna steer way clear of the corners. LOL
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Old 11-18-2013, 06:11 AM   #296
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I've begun assembling mine, my first kit and first on-road TC. Really liking everything about the kit so far. Instructions are thorough (only noticed one problem with the instructions, in the shock assembly it labels which O-ring to use incorrectly. However, in the quick-assembly in the back of the book, it is correct), and everything, save for one of the bearings into the hubs, has fit perfectly. One thing I did notice though is that it says it comes with tools, but I have yet to find them. I have allen wrenches laying around, as should anyone in the hobby, so it's not a big deal, just something I noticed. I did lose one of the tiny set-screws for the anti-sway bars, so I'm hoping there's an extra one by the time I'm finished. Sent my info to Ofna for the care package too, still waiting to hear back about that.

What do you guys do for sealing the CF edges? I wet-sanded with 1000 grit, colored with black Sharpie, then went over it with CA glue. That's the procedure I read, so that's what I did. But why do people sand before they glue? Kinda makes no sense to me, why wouldn't you sand after?
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Old 11-18-2013, 06:21 AM   #297
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Ran the Ofna last night for 3/4 of a lap. touched a board with the wheel and pop there goes a C-Hub. the only part I did not have. sigh. The car Package I got had 2 sets of front knuckles and a set of ball ends. anyone else get c-hubs?

hopefully TQ has the C-Hubs in stock
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Old 11-18-2013, 06:49 AM   #298
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Found something interesting out yesterday, the ball studs on the h4e appear to be a slightly bigger size than the ones used on other cars such as tamiya and schumacher
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Old 11-18-2013, 09:04 AM   #299
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Originally Posted by Mr. Bubby View Post
Yeah, the dogbone is Super thin. I think they should probably beef them up a little bit. For the time being, though, I'm just gonna steer way clear of the corners. LOL


TRF 44mm CVD's fit!
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Old 11-19-2013, 10:22 PM   #300
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Ran the Ofna last night for 3/4 of a lap. touched a board with the wheel and pop there goes a C-Hub. the only part I did not have. sigh. The car Package I got had 2 sets of front knuckles and a set of ball ends. anyone else get c-hubs?

hopefully TQ has the C-Hubs in stock
When you get your new parts, put them in a small strainer and lower them into lightly boiling water for 3 mins. turn off the burner, and let everything come to room temp. Your parts have now been hydrated and are ready to use. Did this to my c-hubs, spindles, and rear hub carriers, raced last Sat. and found plenty of "things" to hit, and never broke a part! Seems nylon based plastics like moisture. Worked for me. Shawn should be able to fix you up. Chris S.
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