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Old 10-24-2013, 01:43 PM   #226
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Originally Posted by Emaculant View Post
Attachment 1124184

Attachment 1124187

My brushed setup! (Don't Judge Me )
funny! NEW CAR, OLD GEAR....looks like something I would do, because my wife wont let me spend more money on all new stuff... i'm sooo p-wooped
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Old 10-24-2013, 01:58 PM   #227
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funny! NEW CAR, OLD GEAR....looks like something I would do, because my wife wont let me spend more money on all new stuff... i'm sooo p-wooped
LOL, nothing wrong with using old gear. Looks good!
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Old 10-24-2013, 02:06 PM   #228
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Nice! -I have your site bookmarked as I've been referring to that page for my build. I also am loving your discussion of fans and batteries. Great stuff. Please add more to the H4 build tips!! -or maybe set up sheets?

As for wrapping my joints w/ heat shrink tubing, I think I will pass. If the retainer clips aren't popping off then I don't see the point in adding something that will be an extra step to remove and put back when I rebuild/check/clean the joints. By the way, the clips are a bit of a PITA to get back on. I can get them on, but they take about 5mins of struggling w/ and some chipped up fingernails to get them back in place.
Thanks.

Regrettably, i'm on hiatus for a while due to personal stuff, so I won't be around. That said, arn0 from petit RC was nice enough to host some of the setup sheets and basic info on their site: http://www.petitrc.com/reglages/hoba...tsHobaoH4.html

Honestly, the kit setup sheet on petic RC is already really good. The kit itself generates a ton of grip. It's a great baseline and you can make small tweaks from there.

I just use my fingers to install the clips. The may need some slight bending since the clips can deform a bit if you take them off, but it's easier after you get the general angle right.
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Old 10-24-2013, 02:08 PM   #229
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Just got my hands on one from Demon Products in the UK @ 270

Will start off the build later. Am I correct in saying in order to get 4 degree kick-up that it is done via caster on the front block rather than different C-Hubs?

If so how many shims need to be under the front block?

Thanks.
Off the top of my head, I recall the c-hub already has 4 degrees of caster built in. Yup, you can tune more or less caster by shimming the front blocks.
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Old 10-24-2013, 03:37 PM   #230
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Thanks.

Regrettably, i'm on hiatus for a while due to personal stuff, so I won't be around. That said, arn0 from petit RC was nice enough to host some of the setup sheets and basic info on their site: http://www.petitrc.com/reglages/hoba...tsHobaoH4.html

Honestly, the kit setup sheet on petic RC is already really good. The kit itself generates a ton of grip. It's a great baseline and you can make small tweaks from there.

I just use my fingers to install the clips. The may need some slight bending since the clips can deform a bit if you take them off, but it's easier after you get the general angle right.
Understood about being on hiatus for awhile. I have been so busy w/ work, wife and kids that I am lucky if I get 2 hours a week to work on my car. My build is going to take months at the rate I am going. ..and I have only been practicing at a local track about 2x a month -usually if I can get off work early and before I come home.

..as for the clips, guess it's just practice then.

thanks.
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Old 10-26-2013, 11:49 AM   #231
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Off the top of my head, I recall the c-hub already has 4 degrees of caster built in. Yup, you can tune more or less caster by shimming the front blocks.
I have gone over this now and There is zero caster on this. The c-hubs give bang on zero. Check with gauges unless i have c-hubs from something else. The pin hole is 90 degrees with the top and bottom fitting holes for the steering arm (knuckle or whatever you call yours). The only way of caster is shims under the blocks for the arms on the chassis.
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Old 10-26-2013, 05:43 PM   #232
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LOL, nothing wrong with using old gear. Looks good!
Thanks!
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Old 10-27-2013, 03:41 AM   #233
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Honestly looking at the pictures it kind of looks like its based off of the HB TCX
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Old 10-27-2013, 09:08 AM   #234
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question:

In the manual on page 5,
front differential mount assembly, it states that the default setting for part #22204 (this is the plastic gear looking lock nut/wheel) ...should be at the 6:00 position, yet in the photo they provide they show it at the 12:00 position. ...I have looked at the photo about 10x and then googled the 6'oclock position to make sure I've not lost my mind. ...isn't 6'oclock the southern most position?? Why do they show the gear lock mechanism in the northern most position? Going crazy here, -if anyone could shed some light on this for me that would be greatly appreciated.

(thanks)

Last edited by eR1c; 10-27-2013 at 09:23 AM.
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Old 10-27-2013, 09:58 AM   #235
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Yea I believe it's supposed to be at the 12 o clock position
Mine are all straight up in the 12 o clock position and the belts are tensioned perfect
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Old 10-27-2013, 10:18 AM   #236
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Thanks, ...I'll start w/ 12 o'clock position then ...I can always loosen to the 6 o'clock if needed.
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Old 10-29-2013, 09:13 PM   #237
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....

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Old 10-29-2013, 10:01 PM   #238
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Ran the H4 at Lou's Speedway last Saturday. Box setup was a good starting point, some push was fixed by laying the front shocks down one more hole. Equalled my best lap in practice .

The steering knuckles are fragile; light contact with another car broke the left one. Anyone know if a fix is in the works? Also, the motor mount makes it hard to change pinions; wish it was like the one on my Sakura XI.
Yes, the updated knuckles are molded in more flexible plastic.
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Old 10-30-2013, 01:29 AM   #239
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Where are people buying the h4e? Cant seem to find them anywhere
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Old 10-30-2013, 03:45 AM   #240
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Now folks, I don't normally get on a forum and bash a product. In fact I never have before. But in my mind, something needs to be said about the H4e. I've read quite a few posts saying the fit and finish was spot on. With the kit I bought and built, that simply is not true. The H4e was the most ridiculous build I have ever done. Next to nothing fit properly. Everything binds. I really liked the concept of the car, but I perceive it as being literally un-runnable with all of the flaws. It is so bad, I don't even feel as if I could re-sell it in good conscious.

Now understand something gentlemen, I know how to build a car. So far this year I've build this piece of work as well as the xray 2014 and the vbc wildfire d06. The latter two vehicles practically built themselves. I understand that I could painstakingly go through the H4e and file this, dremel that, do whatever to get it functional. Doing so would take quite some time. None, and I do mean non of the turnbuckles fail to bind. Not a mild bind; a bind that I would describe as severe. Same with the arms on the hinge pins, same with the whole steering assembly. My gear diff, and I pride myself on building gear diffs, leaked completely and immediately. The tolerances on this car are tight across the board.

I honestly feel like I have a car that, as previously mentioned, is un-runnable as well as unsellable. I am very frustrated with this purchase. That being said, I have a proposal because I really do like the little details in this car. I loved the looks and design of this car and really believe it can be fast. Very fast. So here is my proposal. I would like to send the car back to Nitrohouse where I bought it from and have a sponsored driver on the Hobao/Ofna team rebuild it for me. I will pay the shipping both ways. Really, I would be doing whichever driver took on the challenge a favor. After all, everybody enjoys a good build. Send it back to me in functional condition and I will eat crow. I will amend this statement. Really though, I would really love to run this car. This is my way of asking for help. Mr. Bump. What do you think?
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Last edited by b_recliner; 10-30-2013 at 08:53 AM. Reason: elaborate; spelling errors
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