2LikesTamiya TRF418
03-17-2014, 03:54 PM
#751
418 regretfully selling
SOLD SOLD SOLD.......Just don't have the time. No races on it. extra's. text me for pics. 518-495-0703
Last edited by noworries; 03-18-2014 at 06:11 AM.
03-18-2014, 06:59 PM
#752
that was fast!
unsuprising seeing how difficult the kits are to get a hold of right now.
unsuprising seeing how difficult the kits are to get a hold of right now.
03-18-2014, 09:36 PM
#754
I think you might be waiting a while.
knowing my luck, i'll order it today (plan to) and they will come in stock before mine is even delivered.
knowing my luck, i'll order it today (plan to) and they will come in stock before mine is even delivered.
03-19-2014, 03:51 AM
#755
Tech Rookie
hey guys,
just got my 418 from www.max-hobbies.com
they have limited pieces left.
price is similar to rcmart..
for those interested can try your luck there !
cheers!
just got my 418 from www.max-hobbies.com
they have limited pieces left.
price is similar to rcmart..
for those interested can try your luck there !
cheers!
03-19-2014, 05:30 AM
#756
Tech Apprentice
Has anyone drilled holes in the shock caps?
03-19-2014, 05:59 AM
#757
hey guys,
just got my 418 from www.max-hobbies.com
they have limited pieces left.
price is similar to rcmart..
for those interested can try your luck there !
cheers!
just got my 418 from www.max-hobbies.com
they have limited pieces left.
price is similar to rcmart..
for those interested can try your luck there !
cheers!
Price is lower, but shipping much higher. Express, insured and tracked vs standard though, so not much in it.
How did you find them?
03-19-2014, 06:01 AM
#758
Apparently the TRF guys used to to get even rebound.
Give it a go, cheap part to replace even if you ruin it!
Post here from Groskamp in 2011. No idea if they still do it?
http://www.rctech.net/forum/9044284-post1491.html
Give it a go, cheap part to replace even if you ruin it!
Post here from Groskamp in 2011. No idea if they still do it?
http://www.rctech.net/forum/9044284-post1491.html
Last edited by cplus; 03-19-2014 at 06:16 AM.
03-19-2014, 09:45 AM
#759
Only way to run them IMO. I know its not the same but when I was running 1/8 nitro off-road, all the Losi guys would run the pre-drilled alloy caps--the reason being by the end of the run the sealed air above the bladder would actually heat up and increase pressure-- increasing the rebound quite a bit. TC most likely won't heat up the air as much but by drilling you totally eliminate that variable as now the air pressure will be relieved. Plus easier to get 0 rebound if that is what you prefer.
03-19-2014, 12:16 PM
#761
Tech Apprentice
Only way to run them IMO. I know its not the same but when I was running 1/8 nitro off-road, all the Losi guys would run the pre-drilled alloy caps--the reason being by the end of the run the sealed air above the bladder would actually heat up and increase pressure-- increasing the rebound quite a bit. TC most likely won't heat up the air as much but by drilling you totally eliminate that variable as now the air pressure will be relieved. Plus easier to get 0 rebound if that is what you prefer.
03-19-2014, 01:31 PM
#764
I drill a hole in the plastic shock cap that connects the shock to the nut on the shock tower. I drill about 45 degree angle from the center (underneath) to the outside of the plastic cap. I prefer this to drilling straight up which would put the hole directly under the connecting nut when the shock is mounted on the car--potentially blocking the air hole. Drilling it out the side alleviates this issue.
The aluminum knurled top cap that gets threaded on the shock body and sandwiches the plastic does not get drilled.
03-19-2014, 05:09 PM
#765
Tech Adept
iTrader: (1)
Correct if you are referring to drilling the plastic top cap. The rubber bladder of course does not get drilled.
I drill a hole in the plastic shock cap that connects the shock to the nut on the shock tower. I drill about 45 degree angle from the center (underneath) to the outside of the plastic cap. I prefer this to drilling straight up which would put the hole directly under the connecting nut when the shock is mounted on the car--potentially blocking the air hole. Drilling it out the side alleviates this issue.
The aluminum knurled top cap that gets threaded on the shock body and sandwiches the plastic does not get drilled.
I drill a hole in the plastic shock cap that connects the shock to the nut on the shock tower. I drill about 45 degree angle from the center (underneath) to the outside of the plastic cap. I prefer this to drilling straight up which would put the hole directly under the connecting nut when the shock is mounted on the car--potentially blocking the air hole. Drilling it out the side alleviates this issue.
The aluminum knurled top cap that gets threaded on the shock body and sandwiches the plastic does not get drilled.