2LikesTamiya TRF418
01-20-2014, 04:59 AM
#526
Hey Sean,
thanks for your setup. One question about the shims under the camber links: you have 4mm under them both front and rear. Most other 418 Setups I found have 1mm some have up to 2mm, but never 4mm.
With the 418 bulkheads being around 2.5mm (not exactly sure about this) higher than the 417 ones, I feel that's even more unusual. That must change the rollcenter dramatically.
So can you tell us what the purpose and the effect of that change over the standard setup was?
Thanks,
Christian
thanks for your setup. One question about the shims under the camber links: you have 4mm under them both front and rear. Most other 418 Setups I found have 1mm some have up to 2mm, but never 4mm.
With the 418 bulkheads being around 2.5mm (not exactly sure about this) higher than the 417 ones, I feel that's even more unusual. That must change the rollcenter dramatically.
So can you tell us what the purpose and the effect of that change over the standard setup was?
Thanks,
Christian
I don't know Sean's grip level at his track but his setup for our track which is low/medium traction seems a little pushy but very stable. It's a fantastic base setup and highly recommend it as a starting point. As all tracks are different in grip no one setup is perfect but you can take that setup almost any where.
I will finalize my setup this week but it's not all that different. But it does use the stock springs as I didn't want to use anything else at first. I just have a few more things to try till my setup is final. This is a baseline for Sweep 32's for Nats if I can go.
01-20-2014, 10:58 AM
#531
Tech Fanatic
As promised i did some testing and racing with the 6° C-hubs and with some minor adjustments to my setup the car handled great and it was super fast.
I was 0,2 seconds faster then with the 4° c-hubs and i had the fastest time of the day
I just moved the rear dampers 1 hole inwards on the damperstay and that's all.
Due some driving errors (to close on the curbs) i finished second, but overall very pleased with how the car handled on the track.
I look forward on more testing and racing
I was 0,2 seconds faster then with the 4° c-hubs and i had the fastest time of the day
I just moved the rear dampers 1 hole inwards on the damperstay and that's all.
Due some driving errors (to close on the curbs) i finished second, but overall very pleased with how the car handled on the track.
I look forward on more testing and racing
01-20-2014, 03:08 PM
#532
Tech Regular
iTrader: (20)
Hey Sean,
thanks for your setup. One question about the shims under the camber links: you have 4mm under them both front and rear. Most other 418 Setups I found have 1mm some have up to 2mm, but never 4mm.
With the 418 bulkheads being around 2.5mm (not exactly sure about this) higher than the 417 ones, I feel that's even more unusual. That must change the rollcenter dramatically.
So can you tell us what the purpose and the effect of that change over the standard setup was?
Thanks,
Christian
thanks for your setup. One question about the shims under the camber links: you have 4mm under them both front and rear. Most other 418 Setups I found have 1mm some have up to 2mm, but never 4mm.
With the 418 bulkheads being around 2.5mm (not exactly sure about this) higher than the 417 ones, I feel that's even more unusual. That must change the rollcenter dramatically.
So can you tell us what the purpose and the effect of that change over the standard setup was?
Thanks,
Christian
Yes....4mm under the arm is correct, it should put the arms level front and rear which is not out of the ordinary. Raising the inner camber link on this particular car at my particular track did several things. It increased the corner speed, it reduced the tire wear, increased stabliltiy, increased the grip in and out of the corner and it made the car way easier to drive. Also if you look at your current tires you will see more tire wear on the inside of the tire or possibly some cupping, when raising the inner camber link it moved the wear pattern to the middle of the tire wear it should be and the cupping was gone because I was using the tire equally. After 4 runs and continuous tire observations this told me that the contact patch was directly in the middle of the tire throughout most of the lap which ultimatley provided more traction everywhere.
Just because alot of people use 1 -2mm under the ball stud doesn't mean you have too at your track and it doens't mean it's right
. On a medium grip carpet track this seem to wake the car up and work the best. Try it!
01-20-2014, 03:58 PM
#533
Hi Skyball,
Yes....4mm under the arm is correct, it should put the arms level front and rear which is not out of the ordinary. Raising the inner camber link on this particular car at my particular track did several things. It increased the corner speed, it reduced the tire wear, increased stabliltiy, increased the grip in and out of the corner and it made the car way easier to drive. Also if you look at your current tires you will see more tire wear on the inside of the tire or possibly some cupping, when raising the inner camber link it moved the wear pattern to the middle of the tire wear it should be and the cupping was gone because I was using the tire equally. After 4 runs and continuous tire observations this told me that the contact patch was directly in the middle of the tire throughout most of the lap which ultimatley provided more traction everywhere.
Just because alot of people use 1 -2mm under the ball stud doesn't mean you have too at your track and it doens't mean it's right. On a medium grip carpet track this seem to wake the car up and work the best. Try it!
Yes....4mm under the arm is correct, it should put the arms level front and rear which is not out of the ordinary. Raising the inner camber link on this particular car at my particular track did several things. It increased the corner speed, it reduced the tire wear, increased stabliltiy, increased the grip in and out of the corner and it made the car way easier to drive. Also if you look at your current tires you will see more tire wear on the inside of the tire or possibly some cupping, when raising the inner camber link it moved the wear pattern to the middle of the tire wear it should be and the cupping was gone because I was using the tire equally. After 4 runs and continuous tire observations this told me that the contact patch was directly in the middle of the tire throughout most of the lap which ultimatley provided more traction everywhere.
Just because alot of people use 1 -2mm under the ball stud doesn't mean you have too at your track and it doens't mean it's right
. On a medium grip carpet track this seem to wake the car up and work the best. Try it!Cheers!
Vsr
01-20-2014, 04:08 PM
#534
Hi Skyball,
Yes....4mm under the arm is correct, it should put the arms level front and rear which is not out of the ordinary. Raising the inner camber link on this particular car at my particular track did several things. It increased the corner speed, it reduced the tire wear, increased stabliltiy, increased the grip in and out of the corner and it made the car way easier to drive. Also if you look at your current tires you will see more tire wear on the inside of the tire or possibly some cupping, when raising the inner camber link it moved the wear pattern to the middle of the tire wear it should be and the cupping was gone because I was using the tire equally. After 4 runs and continuous tire observations this told me that the contact patch was directly in the middle of the tire throughout most of the lap which ultimatley provided more traction everywhere.
Just because alot of people use 1 -2mm under the ball stud doesn't mean you have too at your track and it doens't mean it's right. On a medium grip carpet track this seem to wake the car up and work the best. Try it!
Yes....4mm under the arm is correct, it should put the arms level front and rear which is not out of the ordinary. Raising the inner camber link on this particular car at my particular track did several things. It increased the corner speed, it reduced the tire wear, increased stabliltiy, increased the grip in and out of the corner and it made the car way easier to drive. Also if you look at your current tires you will see more tire wear on the inside of the tire or possibly some cupping, when raising the inner camber link it moved the wear pattern to the middle of the tire wear it should be and the cupping was gone because I was using the tire equally. After 4 runs and continuous tire observations this told me that the contact patch was directly in the middle of the tire throughout most of the lap which ultimatley provided more traction everywhere.
Just because alot of people use 1 -2mm under the ball stud doesn't mean you have too at your track and it doens't mean it's right
. On a medium grip carpet track this seem to wake the car up and work the best. Try it!also. what spacer do you have on the rear on the hub?
01-20-2014, 06:44 PM
#535
Do you guys ever find it neccesay to polish the ball studs because all my steering links tie rods sway bar mounrs and camber links are super free except for the right rear. The ball stud on the right rear hub is binding inside the ball cup and doesn't move freely. I thought it might be the ball cup out of round so I tried other ones and the same result. The upright moves freely just not the ball stud in the right rear hub. It's odd. Sugguestions? Only thing I can think to do is polish that one ballstud
01-20-2014, 10:37 PM
#536
Hey Sean,
So thats 4mm with the new style ball studs correct?
I also see the 4mm spacer on the rear of Front arm. Seems to be different then all previous 417s , what did you feel for tht?
THanks
So thats 4mm with the new style ball studs correct?
I also see the 4mm spacer on the rear of Front arm. Seems to be different then all previous 417s , what did you feel for tht?
THanks
01-20-2014, 10:38 PM
#537
Do you guys ever find it neccesay to polish the ball studs because all my steering links tie rods sway bar mounrs and camber links are super free except for the right rear. The ball stud on the right rear hub is binding inside the ball cup and doesn't move freely. I thought it might be the ball cup out of round so I tried other ones and the same result. The upright moves freely just not the ball stud in the right rear hub. It's odd. Sugguestions? Only thing I can think to do is polish that one ballstud
01-21-2014, 11:01 AM
#540
Tamiya has these, number 42102
RC TRF Special Damper Set - Hard Black Coating
http://www.tamiyausa.com/items/radio...mper-set-42102
RC TRF Special Damper Set - Hard Black Coating
http://www.tamiyausa.com/items/radio...mper-set-42102