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Old 06-15-2014, 07:07 PM   #1201
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Does anyone here have a Sanwa set in their car? I have just started to fit my new Sanwa set into the car and the aerial is looooooong my Spektum pro receiver was nice and short, but this one is about 20cm long..

I cant cut it so do you just fold all the excess up?
Can you open the case and shorten it that way? Not physically shorten, but take a "long" route inside the case and have less outside? I was able to do this with my futaba with no ill effects.
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Old 06-15-2014, 10:05 PM   #1202
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Does anyone here have a Sanwa set in their car? I have just started to fit my new Sanwa set into the car and the aerial is looooooong my Spektum pro receiver was nice and short, but this one is about 20cm long..

I cant cut it so do you just fold all the excess up?
I don't run a 418, but a BD7. I just ordered a short antenna for my Sanwa/Airtronics RX. 100mm from uhh... Zeppin Racing. I posted this before, but here it is again.

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Old 06-15-2014, 10:52 PM   #1203
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Originally Posted by Qatmix View Post
Does anyone here have a Sanwa set in their car? I have just started to fit my new Sanwa set into the car and the aerial is looooooong my Spektum pro receiver was nice and short, but this one is about 20cm long..

I cant cut it so do you just fold all the excess up?
These aerials are normally in quarter wave. Check first if yours is any different. Tuning circuitry inside the receiver is aimed at working with the aerial as it is. Shortening it will change the aerial tune so you will have poor reception/selection of the signal. If and how you're going to see this is not easy to predict.

My way of dealing with this problem was to use a long aerial straw and flex it under the bodyshell to the rear shock tower where I would zip tie it somehow. I used a forward position for the base of the aerial (under the windscreen) to give enough room for the aerial to fit under the shell.

Looping it is another idea, but less than ideal again. You will lose some signal.
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Old 06-15-2014, 11:46 PM   #1204
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Jilles has posted his setups from ETS rd5 on Facebook.

"Normal" measurement of droop/downstops this time!



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Old 06-16-2014, 03:21 AM   #1205
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When I look at 418 setup sheets I am assuming that they are using the +1mm 418 ball studs unless specified otherwise. As far as droop settings go they look normal to me--my guess is that Jiles was measuring from the center of the outer hinge pin--in which case 9mm is about equal to 6mm measured the "standard"
way--under the arms using droop blocks.
Have a reply from Jilles on these two topics now!

On the droop setting
"If you measure from the pin it's 3.5mm more then you measure under the suspension arm. For example 9.5 / 8mm is 6 / 4.5mm droop. Hope this clears things up!"

On the ball studs
"In all my set-ups I use "old" ball studs!"

There we go. Cleared up now!
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Old 06-16-2014, 06:30 AM   #1206
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Cheers for the options guys in relation to the aerial, I will probably do the loop whilst looking for the zepplin shorter lead
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Old 06-16-2014, 07:18 AM   #1207
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What are those old ball studs?
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Old 06-16-2014, 07:28 AM   #1208
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What are those old ball studs?


ie: without the inbuilt 1mm spacer.
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Old 06-16-2014, 08:22 AM   #1209
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Originally Posted by cplus View Post
Have a reply from Jilles on these two topics now!

On the droop setting
"If you measure from the pin it's 3.5mm more then you measure under the suspension arm. For example 9.5 / 8mm is 6 / 4.5mm droop. Hope this clears things up!"

On the ball studs
"In all my set-ups I use "old" ball studs!"

There we go. Cleared up now!
thanks for clearing that up. I had assumed that unless stated otherwise he was using 418 (+1mm) studs--I was wrong on that. I myself use old style studs because I prefer to use the Tamiya HD steel studs in the aluminum parts (steering rack, bulkheads, etc.)

One thing I will say is that some of these mod. setups wind up feeling very lazy if you are racing 17.5--there is just too much of a speed and weight transfer difference to carry over from mod to blinky 17.5--at least IMO.
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Old 06-16-2014, 08:26 AM   #1210
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Originally Posted by cplus View Post
Have a reply from Jilles on these two topics now!

On the droop setting
"If you measure from the pin it's 3.5mm more then you measure under the suspension arm. For example 9.5 / 8mm is 6 / 4.5mm droop. Hope this clears things up!"

On the ball studs
"In all my set-ups I use "old" ball studs!"

There we go. Cleared up now!
thanks for clearing that up. I had assumed that unless stated otherwise he was using 418 (+1mm) studs--I was wrong on that. I myself use old style studs because I prefer to use the Tamiya HD steel studs in the aluminum parts (steering rack, bulkheads, etc.)

One thing I will say is that some of these mod. setups wind up feeling very lazy if you are racing 17.5--there is just too much of a speed and weight transfer difference to carry over from mod to blinky 17.5--at least IMO.

I tried Jilles setup from the Reedy race on our med/high bite track and it was lazy--didn't want to turn quickly. Granted the Tamiya track is different from where I was running but I think it had a lot to do with the massive speed difference from mod to stock.
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Old 06-16-2014, 01:10 PM   #1211
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These aerials are normally in quarter wave. Check first if yours is any different. Tuning circuitry inside the receiver is aimed at working with the aerial as it is. Shortening it will change the aerial tune so you will have poor reception/selection of the signal. If and how you're going to see this is not easy to predict.

My way of dealing with this problem was to use a long aerial straw and flex it under the bodyshell to the rear shock tower where I would zip tie it somehow. I used a forward position for the base of the aerial (under the windscreen) to give enough room for the aerial to fit under the shell.

Looping it is another idea, but less than ideal again. You will lose some signal.
Just been speaking to someone and they say the Co ax is just an extension. So you can cut the lead to length and then strip the 30mm of co ax of the end to get the antenna exposed. This will provide the same signal strength.

Although I have got a Zeppin one on order to just swap in now (I hope the case is easy to open)
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Old 06-16-2014, 02:27 PM   #1212
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Anyone try the SAMIX chassis if so how did you like the results??

Thanks guys!
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Old 06-16-2014, 06:45 PM   #1213
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Anyone try the SAMIX chassis if so how did you like the results??

Thanks guys!
I am... And it's soo much better than the kit chassis for modified class racing.
The Chassis is considerably softer then the kit and coupled with their motor mount has made my car competitive in my local low grip asphalt outdoor conditions. I have tried 3 different types and thicknesses of chassis and multiple top decks and this has been by far the best.

That said, these findings are from Mod racing and stock maybe the same, may not... Generally spec class need a firmer chassis (like the kit chassis). As d16dcoe45 said he found the setups from the TRF guys felt lazy in his spec class racing. I can imagine that this would be true when using a Mod setup on the kit chassis and compounding it further and running a spec motor.

Regardless if it's not stated on any of their setup sheets I think we can rest assured that none of the TRF guys are running the kit chassis in Mod competition anymore.
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Old 06-16-2014, 07:04 PM   #1214
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Regardless if it's not stated on any of their setup sheets I think we can rest assured that none of the TRF guys are running the kit chassis in Mod competition anymore.
Interesting to note that apparently the TBEvo6 is running a chassis made of different material/weave and is quite a bit softer.

Perhaps a prelude to what is to come for the 418X/WE/V6?
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Old 06-16-2014, 11:22 PM   #1215
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Interesting to note that apparently the TBEvo6 is running a chassis made of different material/weave and is quite a bit softer.

Perhaps a prelude to what is to come for the 418X/WE/V6?
The talk on the Japanese forums is that the 418 kit chassis cf quality is not quite there. This is the main difference between the yokomo and tamiya. All that drama in the beginning went away after a while, most likely using a visually identical chassis, but totally different composition. As the evo6 noted, it seems they found a cf composition they like, and will be used on the 418x. That along with all the updated suspension parts is my guess. All that said, the new x will be a very promising car.
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