R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 05-20-2014, 08:38 AM   #1051
Tech Regular
 
Jorge T's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: At a chemical plant in TX
Posts: 405
Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by b20btec View Post
If I were you I would go to a 64 pitch panaracer or rw spurs. Leespeed sells a 84 pitch spur and pinion, with that you should be able to fit a gear combo to achieve you're 3.2 fdr. Beamcat stocks panaracer overseas in hk and Leespeed can be bought by teameam Motorsports.
Soap; Cristian@Reflexracing got Panaracer spurs and pinions now. He has115- 92t in Panaracer and 80- 76t in Xenon spurs. And up to a 60t Panaracer pinion!
__________________
RSD Speedway
Jorge T is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-20-2014, 08:43 AM   #1052
Tech Fanatic
 
b20btec's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Sugar Land
Posts: 916
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jorge T View Post
Soap; Cristian@Reflexracing got Panaracer spurs and pinions now. He has115- 92t in Panaracer and 80- 76t in Xenon spurs. And up to a 60t Panaracer pinion!
That's good to know! Wish I would've known, I placed a good size order with beamcat a couple of weeks ago.
b20btec is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-20-2014, 12:55 PM   #1053
Tech Regular
 
Simmi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 272
Default

Hi guys, thanks for your reply but today I was testing without motor bulkhead R.

Have found that the car was very agile to drive directly and fantastic. Has anyone of you ever tested?

Unfortunately, I had no way to measure the times but I felt the TRF was faster.

picture attached
Attached Thumbnails
Tamiya TRF418-img_1076.jpg  
__________________
Tamiya Racing Factory: TRF 419X
Team Yokomo YZ2 CA
Simmi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-20-2014, 06:07 PM   #1054
Tech Elite
 
2-Bad's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Australia
Posts: 2,725
Trader Rating: 24 (100%+)
Default

Not what you have done, but yes the Samix conversion (Chassis & motor mount). The Samix runs a single sided mount with a 5mm dia layshaft shaft to support the additional loads.
I've only had one meeting with race times so far and it's an improvement over the kit chassis in mod racing.

In my opinion, the problem with this car is not the motor mount. The Samix is the 3rd chassis I've tried and it's staying on! The two different styles of motor mounts (Tamiya and Samix) I think with yield different handling characteristics that will depend on the circumstances you need at your track conditions. The beauty of the Samix chassis is you can run either motor mount as it has mounting holes for both. But I'm yet to revert back to the Tamiya mount to confirm my opinions.
__________________
Yokomo * G Force * Sanwa * SMC * ProSpec

Last edited by 2-Bad; 05-20-2014 at 06:21 PM.
2-Bad is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-20-2014, 06:31 PM   #1055
Tech Elite
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 2,022
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Default

That really seems to be a consistent opinion.

13.5/17.5 blinky or otherwise, run the std 418

Mod - needs something else. But even the TRF boys aren't quite sure what yet!
cplus is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-20-2014, 07:35 PM   #1056
Tech Elite
 
Dusttt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Lake Forest
Posts: 2,147
Trader Rating: 114 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by veecee View Post
VBC Big Bores are a straight fit. They are the same length as the Tamiya Short Shocks.
Ok Thanks! I didn't have the shorts to compare so that helps a ton!
__________________
"Whiskey Tango Foxtrot"
Dusttt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-20-2014, 08:26 PM   #1057
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,207
Trader Rating: 21 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by [RC10TC] View Post
I'm trying to get a 3.2 fdr for a 21.5 motor for USGT class. I wanted to stay with Tamiya pitch gears, but can't seem to find 04 module as big as I need to use with the 96t spur.
90T-spur/51-pinion=3.265
90T-spur/51-pinion=3.202

Attached Thumbnails
Tamiya TRF418-photo-2-.jpg  
JoeyE is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-22-2014, 12:21 AM   #1058
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 106
Default

Was looking to get into some 1/10 onroad racing, and read about (xray, serpernt, Tamiya, associated ect) GOOD LORD..... Are any of the cars just GOOD TO GO?????

"Modify this, replace this with that from Those guys, but use those guys brand for this"..
I don't think I would have all the time to try to fix all what is wrong with EVERY BRAND of car....

I am not knocking you guys....at all... I love ANY rc sport, or racing in general...

It seems that NO MFG. can make a decent car that isn't all Wacked up ....
Plastic brittle...
Car can't turn,
Diffs are Loose, and don't fit tight
The Outdrives ware too fast ect ect

It seems to take the fun out of it for me anyway....
You can't just go out and drive it, you got to change 4 things just to make it driveable...

Perhaps it is that I am tired right now..????
I don't know what to think about this stuff...
Hermit 713 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-22-2014, 01:05 AM   #1059
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: santa monica / manchester
Posts: 1,183
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hermit 713 View Post
Was looking to get into some 1/10 onroad racing, and read about (xray, serpernt, Tamiya, associated ect) GOOD LORD..... Are any of the cars just GOOD TO GO?????

"Modify this, replace this with that from Those guys, but use those guys brand for this"..
I don't think I would have all the time to try to fix all what is wrong with EVERY BRAND of car....

I am not knocking you guys....at all... I love ANY rc sport, or racing in general...

It seems that NO MFG. can make a decent car that isn't all Wacked up ....
Plastic brittle...
Car can't turn,
Diffs are Loose, and don't fit tight
The Outdrives ware too fast ect ect

It seems to take the fun out of it for me anyway....
You can't just go out and drive it, you got to change 4 things just to make it driveable...

Perhaps it is that I am tired right now..????
I don't know what to think about this stuff...
Yep all top end cars are great, however the nature of racing is always to strive to improve your times to compete or stay ahead of the competition.

I have raced a lot of cars (see www.TheRcRacer.com ) and they all have pro's and cons. Out of the issues you list above the 418 doesn't have any of those. At my local club its a very successful chassis (17.5 blinky).

But as is the nature of racing, if I can change a part to make it even faster and to help me win by a bigger margin, then lets do it, part of the fun is tinkering with the cars (Such as Simmi running without the motor mount, trying the Samix conversion etc).

If you have any questions feel free to ask, onroad as a class is very friendly and open as we all are here to just have a great days racing
__________________
http://www.theRcRacer.com/

TRF419, TBEvo6, TT02, VDF, TRF501x, TRF201, TRF101, Mi5, X-Ray T4-13, BD7 2014, A700 Evo, WR-02G
Qatmix is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-22-2014, 01:09 AM   #1060
Tech Elite
 
niznai's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: All over the place
Posts: 2,735
Default

Take it easy. If you're just after some cheap fun and you find a place near you with a class to suit, get into minis. You can land a Tamiya mini on the track for less than 300$ (including cheap electronics but not radio) and the beauty of it is that it doesn't make any difference what you change on it, it will be absolutely the same. Build it as per manual instructions and go have fun.

Touring cars are expensive, but depending on class I think any of the offerings on the market are good enough out of the box. A lot of complaining comes from people who either want too much or run more powerful classes. For 21.5/17.5 I would say just about anything will do the job out of the box, including even the cheaper Tamiya kits (don't know about other brands' cheap kits).

For faster classes you need a bit of tuning even for a top end kit (depending on track more than anything else), but not necessarily changing or buying extra gear.

Maybe look into a good s/h car perhaps at your local track where you can get more local info?
__________________
Team Greasy Weasel

The best upgrade to any car is some driver skill.
niznai is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-22-2014, 03:59 AM   #1061
Tech Elite
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 2,022
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Default

I'm new to 1/10th TC as well. I'm 35 and racing RC for the first time since a very small foray when I was 15! Chucking myself in the deepens.

I'm running a TRF418 in 13.5t blinky, as far a changes from box stock I have the following as I wanted to build "my" ultimate 418 (based on the stock chassis anyway);

- Titanium and blue aluminium screws - they look cooler (and save a very marginal amount of weight). I even tracked down some 2.6mm x 8mm ones you don't need these to be under weight!

- Red Orings in the diff - not needed, but apparently leak less. Consumable item.
- 1600wt diff oil - 900 from the kit would probably be okay, but it's a consumable anyway.

- 50wt shock oil - similar to above the 400 from the kit would be okay, consumable.
- Ride Red springs - springs are a tuning tool, and pretty much anyone and everyone is running ride red or HPI silver, so why wouldn't i
- TRF ball nut and titanium hollow set screws - make removing shocks ever so slightly easier to remove. Not required to go fast.
- TRF low friction damper V parts - not even the team guys bother with these, but they are a couple of bucks and I wanted to try them. Not required to go fast.
- Titanium coated suspension shafts. They dropped these from the 418 (417 had them) and again, I wanted them as part of my no compromise build. Not required to go fast.
- Blue O rings for the shocks. Apparently better than the clear ones. Consumable item again.

- Damper spacers on the steering - purely cosmetic. No function at all.
- TRF body mounts. Mildly functional. But they look cool too.
- A pair of 630 bearings - to make a low drag rear lipo stop. The kit should include this I think. $5 worth!

Most of the above only cost a few bucks each (but does add up) but absolutely none of them are either required nor likely to make a novice like me any faster. I also used none of the stock grease etc - again overkill.

I've only has a few runs so far and out of the box it is fast, balanced and so easy to drive. I have a TA06 as well and they are POLES apart even though the TA06 cost just as much by the time I had thrown a few upgrade parts at it - which it DID need.

Actually I forgot two items, and both are essential.
- different spur gear. No way to achieve the FDR I need for 13.5t blinky with the stock spur. 108t for me for now.
- A set of 3,4,5mm shims. I didn't use many, the keys ones are extra under the shock pistons and also in the hubs.

I think you would find a similar story with any of the top chassis.
cplus is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-22-2014, 04:40 AM   #1062
Tech Elite
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 2,022
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Default

Talking about the build I undertook has spurned me to take some quick snaps on the desk







Must give some thanks to Kentech and Qatmix for some of the ideas and advice as well
cplus is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-22-2014, 08:38 AM   #1063
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Central CA
Posts: 157
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default

cplus, you should put holes in the top of the ball cups. I use a body reamer to make a hole just large enough for a 2mm hex driver to fit. Be sure to clean any debris and make sure the cup moves freely on the ballstud afterwards.

This will keep your ballcups free of plier marks during routine adjustments and disassembly.
__________________
Richard G.

Tamiya...
dizope is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-22-2014, 08:45 AM   #1064
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Central CA
Posts: 157
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default

I need new diff outdrive bearings. I was thinking about ceramic but don't know which size. The manual just says 1510. Any suggestions?
__________________
Richard G.

Tamiya...
dizope is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-22-2014, 09:09 AM   #1065
Tech Elite
 
niznai's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: All over the place
Posts: 2,735
Default

Er-1510 perhaps?
__________________
Team Greasy Weasel

The best upgrade to any car is some driver skill.
niznai is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Tags
417, 418, rm-01, tamiya, trf, yokomo bd7


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 04:39 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0