R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 04-29-2014, 05:54 PM   #931
Tech Elite
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 2,022
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Default

Question on spur gears guys - I've just installed a kawada super ex, and have found that with the stock shim arrangement (2 of 4x0.2mm on the non-motor side) the spur sits awfully close to the top deck on the motor side.

Placing one shim either end of the shaft brings it back into the centre but I'm a little concerned something is a miss, but can't see how - the mounts all line up very well, and they are dowelled obviously, so can't go too far!
cplus is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-29-2014, 05:56 PM   #932
Tech Elite
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 2,022
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Default

But looking at this it appears Jiles has the same "problem".....!

cplus is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-29-2014, 06:40 PM   #933
Tech Elite
 
2-Bad's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Australia
Posts: 2,725
Trader Rating: 24 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by niznai View Post
What is the fishing line method?

Springs don't count as long as shocks are equal length. Besides, balancing the chassis doesn't have anything to do with this problem. The man complains there's more travel on one side than the other, not more load.

I used an integy balancing station or the four scale method to balance cars, but I found working by eye works just as well. Or maybe I just don't fret so much any more these days. Close enough is good enough.
Actually springs can make a difference! Just because the manufacturers say the springs are perfectly matched doesn't necessarily mean it is so.
If you set all your spring retainers exactly the same (right and left) on each pair of shocks, the springs can have slightly different compression rate from one to another then at ride height it can affect the reading.

Again, actually weight balance can affect ride height!
If your spring retainers are exactly the same and the springs are good, but your weight bias is heavier on one side to another then this can cause more compression and a variation on ride height readings.

He could have been referring to more shock travel length but I read it as ride height because he suggested 6mm and 5.5mm readings from right to left, hence why my comments referred to it. If I'm mistaken then I'm sorry for the confusion.

And you’re right about not fretting too much about some stuff. Some of the stuff mentions on this thread is all about being 100% clinically accurate but most people probably find it hard to feel the difference on the track. But if you write anything on these thread you have to write it that way because you will always get these pretentious experts that will shoot you down when all your trying to do is help out a fellow racer with some free advice.
__________________
Yokomo * G Force * Sanwa * SMC * ProSpec
2-Bad is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-29-2014, 11:54 PM   #934
Tech Elite
 
sosidge's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Bristol, UK
Posts: 3,811
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by cplus View Post
Question on spur gears guys - I've just installed a kawada super ex, and have found that with the stock shim arrangement (2 of 4x0.2mm on the non-motor side) the spur sits awfully close to the top deck on the motor side.

Placing one shim either end of the shaft brings it back into the centre but I'm a little concerned something is a miss, but can't see how - the mounts all line up very well, and they are dowelled obviously, so can't go too far!
It's not a problem because the spur won't rub. But I shim mine to the middle anyway.
sosidge is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-30-2014, 12:22 AM   #935
Tech Elite
 
niznai's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: All over the place
Posts: 2,735
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by 2-Bad View Post
Actually springs can make a difference! Just because the manufacturers say the springs are perfectly matched doesn't necessarily mean it is so.
If you set all your spring retainers exactly the same (right and left) on each pair of shocks, the springs can have slightly different compression rate from one to another then at ride height it can affect the reading.

Again, actually weight balance can affect ride height!
If your spring retainers are exactly the same and the springs are good, but your weight bias is heavier on one side to another then this can cause more compression and a variation on ride height readings.

He could have been referring to more shock travel length but I read it as ride height because he suggested 6mm and 5.5mm readings from right to left, hence why my comments referred to it. If I'm mistaken then I'm sorry for the confusion.

And you’re right about not fretting too much about some stuff. Some of the stuff mentions on this thread is all about being 100% clinically accurate but most people probably find it hard to feel the difference on the track. But if you write anything on these thread you have to write it that way because you will always get these pretentious experts that will shoot you down when all your trying to do is help out a fellow racer with some free advice.
Yeah, he mentions in his post something about shocks being identical length hence my answer.

Sure, once the car is on its wheels, springs come into play, but his tests were on blocks with everything disconnected.

Hey, companies have to sell the clinical method otherwise who'd buy all that setup gizmotery?

Given the flaws I mentioned elsewhere of this chassis, I doubt anyone's car (and I include here world champions) would be the same after an A-main final. The only car I have seen that went to considerable length to key everything into untweakdomness was the Avid from Robitronic. Sold mine some time ago, but sill remember the tight fit of parts. Had other issues though that made me pull the trigger.
__________________
Team Greasy Weasel

The best upgrade to any car is some driver skill.
niznai is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-30-2014, 05:42 AM   #936
Tech Regular
 
masterhit's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Michigan
Posts: 468
Trader Rating: 14 (100%+)
Default

Something interesting I discovered the other day. I thought it would be a good idea to pass along since this kind of info is hard to come by and is not mentioned anywhere in the Raceberry description.

I was comparing chassis as I wanted to drill my Raceberry and stock Tamiya chassis to use the Samix motor mount to give some more options. That's when I realized that the Raceberry chassis shifts the bulkheads and motor mount 2mm forward compared to the suspension mounts!

The stock Tamiya and Samix chassis share the same mounting positions for everything.

The wheelbase stays the same, but besides the obvious weight distribution change the Raceberry changes the shock and drive shaft angles as well. The battery slots are also moved forward on the RB.

Mike Slaughter
Attached Thumbnails
Tamiya TRF418-samix.jpg   Tamiya TRF418-rb.jpg  

Last edited by masterhit; 04-30-2014 at 06:12 AM.
masterhit is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-30-2014, 09:17 AM   #937
Tech Fanatic
 
d16dcoe45's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Armonk, NY
Posts: 932
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by masterhit View Post
Something interesting I discovered the other day. I thought it would be a good idea to pass along since this kind of info is hard to come by and is not mentioned anywhere in the Raceberry description.

I was comparing chassis as I wanted to drill my Raceberry and stock Tamiya chassis to use the Samix motor mount to give some more options. That's when I realized that the Raceberry chassis shifts the bulkheads and motor mount 2mm forward compared to the suspension mounts!

The stock Tamiya and Samix chassis share the same mounting positions for everything.

The wheelbase stays the same, but besides the obvious weight distribution change the Raceberry changes the shock and drive shaft angles as well. The battery slots are also moved forward on the RB.

Mike Slaughter
Good info. Similar to how the RB 417 had the Yoke mount quite far forward. After breaking 2 RB 417 chassis its a lot easier running the RB 418 chassis as you can use the stock 418 chassis & upper deck in a pinch. I never had a 418 stock chassis so I wasn't aware the RB 418 had shifted things around.
__________________
Jay Lestingi


Tamiya/Team Associated/Orca
d16dcoe45 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-30-2014, 06:19 PM   #938
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 196
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default

Has anybody had the clips coming off the front DCJ shafts and pin comes out? Also
Is there any better front shaft blade protectors as the spec r ones don't seem to hold up.
Atechbh is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-30-2014, 06:40 PM   #939
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,207
Trader Rating: 21 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Atechbh View Post
Has anybody had the clips coming off the front DCJ shafts and pin comes out? Also
Is there any better front shaft blade protectors as the spec r ones don't seem to hold up.
Roche blade protectors.
JoeyE is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-30-2014, 07:45 PM   #940
Tech Elite
 
Raman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Las Vegas
Posts: 2,892
Trader Rating: 46 (100%+)
Default

I'm not sure what's going on at tower hobbies. Earlier this month they dropped the price of the TRF418 down to 590... And few days later it was back above 700.

Well now it's down to $542.70 and for tower club members it's $75 off to $467.5 shipped! That's cheaper than Banzai, who is still out of stock!

Get them before Tower changes their mind again

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXDXHK&P=7
__________________
TRF419X / Pulse 17.5, T.O.P Racing Sabre Mini AWD / Impact 21.5, M06 Pro / Impact 21.5, XV-01 Pro Rallye / Kinetic 17.5
Raman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-30-2014, 11:52 PM   #941
Tech Elite
 
sosidge's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Bristol, UK
Posts: 3,811
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Atechbh View Post
Has anybody had the clips coming off the front DCJ shafts and pin comes out? Also
Is there any better front shaft blade protectors as the spec r ones don't seem to hold up.
I lost one, but as far as I'm concerned it was "just one of those things". Make sure the groove the clip sits in is clean and the clip is fully seated.

For the front blades I would suggest changing to a non-bladed out drive (although there will now be a long queue of people telling you the blades are fine!)
sosidge is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-01-2014, 04:19 PM   #942
Tech Elite
 
Raman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Las Vegas
Posts: 2,892
Trader Rating: 46 (100%+)
Default

Does anyone know the part number for the silver HPI springs?
__________________
TRF419X / Pulse 17.5, T.O.P Racing Sabre Mini AWD / Impact 21.5, M06 Pro / Impact 21.5, XV-01 Pro Rallye / Kinetic 17.5
Raman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-01-2014, 05:07 PM   #943
CL
Tech Addict
 
CL's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: So-Cal
Posts: 682
Trader Rating: 32 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Raman View Post
Does anyone know the part number for the silver HPI springs?
Here is the part # for the HPI silver springs:

http://hpiracing.com/en/part/6543

You should also pick up a pair of blue(softer) and pink(harder) springs for tuning purposes.
__________________
Believe in yourself!
CL is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-01-2014, 06:48 PM   #944
Tech Elite
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 2,022
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Default

And if you can't find HPI look for ride RED springs. Quality just as good rate basically identical.
cplus is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-02-2014, 02:56 AM   #945
Tech Elite
 
2-Bad's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Australia
Posts: 2,725
Trader Rating: 24 (100%+)
Default

There are two HPI Silver Springs.
The original: HPI Silver (Silver colour) 16.9lb - 302cf/mm
The Current: HPI Silver (Black colour) 16.9lb - 302cf/mm

IMO, on the track the Silver/Silver's feel harder then the Silver/blacks

The Ride Red are 301cf/mm and on the track feel softer then the HPI Silver/Blacks


Hope this helps....
__________________
Yokomo * G Force * Sanwa * SMC * ProSpec
2-Bad is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Tags
417, 418, rm-01, tamiya, trf, yokomo bd7


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 04:42 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0