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Old 03-11-2014, 10:49 AM   #706
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Originally Posted by cplus View Post
According to the manuals the V5 and 418 both use part number 19804512 for the spool output cups (Direct Cup in tamiya speak)

#54544 as far as I can tell are one and the same item?
Hmmmm... I don't own any of the Tamiya non-bladed cups but from what I have seen and heard from other racers that number is for non-bladed ones on the V5. The TRF418 comes with the TA06 lightweight ones which are 54544 and are definitely bladed. I think there may be a typo in the 418 manual.

Obviously there are a few fans of the blades here, I broke 5 in the first couple of race days and I haven't broken or worn the unbladed ones since. Every racers experience will be different.
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And check, $3 for 5mm shims to the shopping cart. Ouch.

Don't use those shims, they have a small outside diameter, Use the shims in #51466
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Old 03-11-2014, 11:09 AM   #707
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Yep the V5 has non-blade out drives. The 418 has the TA06 blade ones.
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Old 03-11-2014, 03:02 PM   #708
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Will post my Setup Sheet from last Weekend on Carpet.

Enjoy



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Old 03-11-2014, 05:22 PM   #709
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Originally Posted by Qatmix View Post
Yep the V5 has non-blade out drives. The 418 has the TA06 blade ones.
Ah yep - like this.



Manual must have an error for the 418
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Old 03-11-2014, 05:29 PM   #710
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Don't use those shims, they have a small outside diameter, Use the shims in #51466
I assume these are exactly the same as well (cheaper, and no TA06 style out drives to go to waste if so)

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Old 03-11-2014, 07:05 PM   #711
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Went to the track today to get in a few hours of practice in and check out the new track configuration. Spent most of the time just getting a feel for the track but then right before I was going to leave I crashed breaking the ball connector right off in the right rear upper bulkhead. Doubt I'll be able to get the broken piece out so looks like I'll have to run the rear camber links on the inner setting till I can get a new bulkhead.
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Last edited by c2tcardin; 03-11-2014 at 07:31 PM. Reason: Edit: spoke too soon, I got the broken piece out!
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Old 03-11-2014, 07:46 PM   #712
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Originally Posted by c2tcardin View Post
Went to the track today to get in a few hours of practice in and check out the new track configuration. Spent most of the time just getting a feel for the track but then right before I was going to leave I crashed breaking the ball connector right off in the right rear upper bulkhead. Doubt I'll be able to get the broken piece out so looks like I'll have to run the rear camber links on the inner setting till I can get a new bulkhead.
since the ball connector is made of aluminum, you can try drilling it out with a 1.5mm drill bit (either you drill right through what's left of the connector or the friction will turn it far enough so you can turn it with a pair of pliers). hths
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Old 03-11-2014, 08:06 PM   #713
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Quote:
Originally Posted by c2tcardin View Post
Went to the track today to get in a few hours of practice in and check out the new track configuration. Spent most of the time just getting a feel for the track but then right before I was going to leave I crashed breaking the ball connector right off in the right rear upper bulkhead. Doubt I'll be able to get the broken piece out so looks like I'll have to run the rear camber links on the inner setting till I can get a new bulkhead.

Another option is;
As the ball end is aluminium, get a flat bladed jewelers screw driver sized appropriately to just under the diameter of the remaining head of the ball stud (even if it's just the threaded stud left).
Position the driver on the exposed stub remains and gently but firmly tap the end of the driver (like hammering a nail into wood). You may like to support the bulkhead in some way to ensure you don't bend it if you get too heavy handed with the hammering, lol. This will cut a firm slot onto the broken ball stud.

Now you should be able to unscrew the broken ball stud like a normal screw, cleanly without damage to the bulkhead.

I've done this many times on larger industrial stuff and a few times many years ago on my off road buggies...
Good Luck, hope that works for you too!!!
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Old 03-11-2014, 08:33 PM   #714
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Thanks for the suggestions guys. I was able to get out the broken threads despite the fact that they sheared off flush with the bulkhead. Guess I won't need to change my set up to the inner camber hole after all.
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Old 03-11-2014, 10:44 PM   #715
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Finally finished building my TRF418 after about a couple months. Time to try it out! Only other thing I installed was DCJ's on the rears and TAMIYA titanium turnbuckles.


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Old 03-12-2014, 01:50 AM   #716
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Coming soon... Some much needed flex!
Looking good!
2mm version please!
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Old 03-12-2014, 04:40 AM   #717
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for those running the white tamiya blades up front, just wanted to share... ever since i tried "cooking" them (heat water in a mug, dump the blades in and leave them there till the water goes cold) before installing them, they seem to be lasting much longer.

i also dab some anti-wear grease on the blades, the shaft pins, and the outdrives (the AW grease from HPI is easier to apply as it's not as thick and sticky as the one from Tamiya that usually comes with all the kits they produce). i re-apply the grease after every race day.

after doing this, my blades seem to be surviving boosted 13.5 runs with the usual corner rubs with other cars and occasional "spectacular" run-in with the track islands and barriers.

hths.
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Old 03-12-2014, 06:35 AM   #718
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What are you guys doing for the stock spur gear? Mine seams to have quite a bit of side to side play in it... is there another manufacturer that fits better? And yes I have all the right shims and in the correct order.
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Old 03-12-2014, 07:31 AM   #719
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What are you guys doing for the stock spur gear? Mine seams to have quite a bit of side to side play in it... is there another manufacturer that fits better? And yes I have all the right shims and in the correct order.
I am using and Panaracer spur and have no side by side play at all. I haven't tried any other spurs though. I did look at the other brands that I have and they are thinner. Maybe it's the thinner ones that needs help with the slop.
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Old 03-12-2014, 08:06 AM   #720
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I am using and Panaracer spur and have no side by side play at all. I haven't tried any other spurs though. I did look at the other brands that I have and they are thinner. Maybe it's the thinner ones that needs help with the slop.
Thank you. I will pick one up.
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