R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 02-18-2014, 05:44 AM   #616
Tech Master
 
xrayaustin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: St. Pete
Posts: 1,174
Trader Rating: 12 (93%+)
Send a message via AIM to xrayaustin
Default

Thanks alot. Makes alot more since now. Thst chart is exactly what I was looking for. So a C and C front is a middle track width with no arm sweep and XA & E rear is 3 toe in. Thinking maybe an XA & C or D would be better for stock. Thanks
__________________
Www.superiorhobbies.com

2010 cleveland indoor champs and 2011 snowbird nationals 17.5 stock A main winner
xrayaustin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-18-2014, 11:48 AM   #617
Tech Regular
 
Simmi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 272
Default

I use in Front C, C and Rear XA, D.

Drive Stock Class 13,5T and this year I still drove no round with my new TRF 418
__________________
Tamiya Racing Factory: TRF 419X
Team Yokomo YZ2 CA
Simmi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-19-2014, 09:32 AM   #618
Tech Master
 
xrayaustin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: St. Pete
Posts: 1,174
Trader Rating: 12 (93%+)
Send a message via AIM to xrayaustin
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Simmi View Post
I use in Front C, C and Rear XA, D.

Drive Stock Class 13,5T and this year I still drove no round with my new TRF 418
Going to put my first race on it this weekend a rear d block is what I'mgoing to try. Possibly even a c. TThanks
__________________
Www.superiorhobbies.com

2010 cleveland indoor champs and 2011 snowbird nationals 17.5 stock A main winner
xrayaustin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-19-2014, 11:47 AM   #619
Tech Fanatic
 
b20btec's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Sugar Land
Posts: 916
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by NolanP View Post
So I've found the difference between the shims under the inner ball stud are very crucial on carpet. At 0-1mm on Sweeps I traction roll. 1.5-2.0 the car is very unstable if you hit a dot. At 3-4mm the car becomes very stable and very forgiving. When your in a great setup window a .5mm difference can be huge. So if Sean is running a 4mm shim he may be on high bite carpet.

I don't know Sean's grip level at his track but his setup for our track which is low/medium traction seems a little pushy but very stable. It's a fantastic base setup and highly recommend it as a starting point. As all tracks are different in grip no one setup is perfect but you can take that setup almost any where.

I will finalize my setup this week but it's not all that different. But it does use the stock springs as I didn't want to use anything else at first. I just have a few more things to try till my setup is final. This is a baseline for Sweep 32's for Nats if I can go.
I'm not sure a 4mm shim would work without changing to a longer length ball stud if I remember correctly. I think I had some laying around that was 8mm long. On high bite carpet with soft springs 3-4mm shims and hpi blue soft springs seems to be the ticket!
b20btec is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-20-2014, 05:27 AM   #620
Tech Regular
 
narcotiks's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 445
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by NolanP View Post
So I've found the difference between the shims under the inner ball stud are very crucial on carpet. At 0-1mm on Sweeps I traction roll. 1.5-2.0 the car is very unstable if you hit a dot. At 3-4mm the car becomes very stable and very forgiving. When your in a great setup window a .5mm difference can be huge. So if Sean is running a 4mm shim he may be on high bite carpet.

I don't know Sean's grip level at his track but his setup for our track which is low/medium traction seems a little pushy but very stable. It's a fantastic base setup and highly recommend it as a starting point. As all tracks are different in grip no one setup is perfect but you can take that setup almost any where.

I will finalize my setup this week but it's not all that different. But it does use the stock springs as I didn't want to use anything else at first. I just have a few more things to try till my setup is final. This is a baseline for Sweep 32's for Nats if I can go.
Have you guys tried taking out the 0.5 shims from under the blocks and running 0mm-1mm on the inner ball stud?
Reason i ask is, on the 417, 3mm-4mm worked best on the inner ballstud, but the 418 with no shims on the inner ballstud is at the same height as 3.5mm on the 417.
I've been running on medium/high grip asphalt and found that marc's BIRC setup works really well. Changed the car heaps but keep going back to BIRC setup. When the grip is lower, no shims under the blocks works really well, with no shims on the upper link. In higher grip conditions, 0.5 under the blocks and 0mm or 1mm under the upper link feels best.
narcotiks is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-22-2014, 09:32 AM   #621
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 129
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by narcotiks View Post
Have you guys tried taking out the 0.5 shims from under the blocks and running 0mm-1mm on the inner ball stud?
Reason i ask is, on the 417, 3mm-4mm worked best on the inner ballstud, but the 418 with no shims on the inner ballstud is at the same height as 3.5mm on the 417.
I've been running on medium/high grip asphalt and found that marc's BIRC setup works really well. Changed the car heaps but keep going back to BIRC setup. When the grip is lower, no shims under the blocks works really well, with no shims on the upper link. In higher grip conditions, 0.5 under the blocks and 0mm or 1mm under the upper link feels best.
Don't the new 418 ball studs have a 1mm shim build into them now? So when you say no shims under the 418 studs would you still record this as 1mm on a set up sheet? I only ask because I switched out the kit studs for the fluorine coated ball studs that do not have the 1mm shim built into them.
__________________
Cheers, Jeff
c2tcardin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-22-2014, 04:21 PM   #622
Tech Regular
 
narcotiks's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 445
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by c2tcardin View Post
Don't the new 418 ball studs have a 1mm shim build into them now? So when you say no shims under the 418 studs would you still record this as 1mm on a set up sheet? I only ask because I switched out the kit studs for the fluorine coated ball studs that do not have the 1mm shim built into them.
The 418 studs do have that 1mm shim built in.
When I record no shims on setup sheet, this means no shim on 418 stud, which is 1mm shim the fluorine ballstud.
So 1mm on a 418 setup sheet would be with the 418 ball stud, which is 2mm on the older fluorine ball stud.
narcotiks is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-22-2014, 06:07 PM   #623
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 129
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Cool thanks, That's what I was doing too.
__________________
Cheers, Jeff
c2tcardin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-24-2014, 12:37 AM   #624
Tech Elite
 
sosidge's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Bristol, UK
Posts: 3,811
Default

So I've been struggling a bit with rear end grip on my 418, generally having to dial out steering to keep it under control, but I would like to have a bit more lock in the car for the very tight corners. Any suggestions for changes from kit settings that are working for you to get the rear end planted?
sosidge is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-24-2014, 12:52 AM   #625
Tech Regular
 
Chuggz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 479
Trader Rating: 11 (100%+)
Default

Centre screw out!
Chuggz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-24-2014, 03:01 AM   #626
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: santa monica / manchester
Posts: 1,183
Default

As above, taking the centre screw out gives you loads of rear end (Too much) although I actually like running the 6 degree hubs on mine, it seems to calm out the rear on the sweepers and on tighter corners past the apex.
__________________
http://www.theRcRacer.com/

TRF419, TBEvo6, TT02, VDF, TRF501x, TRF201, TRF101, Mi5, X-Ray T4-13, BD7 2014, A700 Evo, WR-02G
Qatmix is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-24-2014, 05:23 AM   #627
Tech Regular
 
narcotiks's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 445
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by sosidge View Post
So I've been struggling a bit with rear end grip on my 418, generally having to dial out steering to keep it under control, but I would like to have a bit more lock in the car for the very tight corners. Any suggestions for changes from kit settings that are working for you to get the rear end planted?
XC - C rear blocks will give you exactly what you're after.
As for the centre screw, I've had mixed results, it works well if you want the car to rotate more through the corner, but can also (depending on the rest of the setup) make the car over rotate on corner exit and make it "keep steering" around the corner. It feels like it gives the car more corner speed but I'm not sure if it actually does. I think on small twisty tracks it will work effectively because it allows a quicker direction change, but on larger tracks with sweeping corners it can have mixed results.
narcotiks is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-24-2014, 12:41 PM   #628
Tech Regular
 
Chuggz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 479
Trader Rating: 11 (100%+)
Default

Mine always had rear grip with the screw but with it out chicanes are very stable at speed
Chuggz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-24-2014, 12:50 PM   #629
Tech Elite
 
sosidge's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Bristol, UK
Posts: 3,811
Default

I was holding off but I've gone out and ordered almost all of the tuning parts for a 418, so I'll be able to play with caster, track width, front drivetrain and roll centres to my hearts delight. If past experience is anything to go by I'll end up back on kit settings but at least I will have learnt a bit more in the process!
sosidge is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-24-2014, 07:59 PM   #630
Tech Elite
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 2,022
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Default

anyone know when new stock is expected at most stores?

good pricing *was* between $475and $550, but those that seem to have stock are sitting around the $599-$699 price point.

trying to decide whether to just suck it up and go to speedtech at $599 or wait for somewhere like Banzai to get stock again - $100 buy quite a few spares and bits!
cplus is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Tags
417, 418, rm-01, tamiya, trf, yokomo bd7


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 05:01 PM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0