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Old 02-02-2014, 11:24 PM   #586
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SpecR makes great spur gears... haven't tried fitting them on the 418 though (i've used them on my 417).

centerhole may be more for weight rather than a battery stop. if you check out MR's set-up sheet for BIRC, he put 15g there...

http://www.petitrc.com/reglages/tami...ugeRC20131201/
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Old 02-02-2014, 11:49 PM   #587
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Our LHS had RW Racing to start making gears that are Machined to fit a 418. These are a high quality gear and is reasonably priced at $7.
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Old 02-03-2014, 10:32 AM   #588
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I'm thinking the white blades are too new and haven't had time to cure. My car's debut weekend, I broke 3 on what looked to be light/medium board taps and changed to some random ones I found in my bag for the remainder of the day. The R10s feel great on the aluminum axles in the rear but feel a little snug on all my DCJs. So...oldschool time.... After a 15-minute soak in some previously boiling water, the white ones seem to be holding up better now.

Had some serious head-to-hand malfunctions this weekend that resulted in a few impressive tumbles off track. Daily tally was a Solaris Med wheel, rear hub and a steering knuckle. However, the white blades are still just as tight as they were when I put them on.
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Old 02-03-2014, 11:53 AM   #589
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The thing is, there is no need to try and make the blades work. Roche do some non-bladed outdrives that work perfectly and the driveshafts can handle the strain. Tamiya also have some from a drift car but they would be harder to find.
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Old 02-03-2014, 12:08 PM   #590
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The 417v5 out drives are steel and do not need shafts. I also boiled my shaft protectors after i had a couple of them go after 'Soft ish' hits and they have not broken (yet)
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Old 02-03-2014, 12:25 PM   #591
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http://shop.smokem-racing.com/Smokem...F417_p_19.html

I have been using these spool cups all weekend at ETS - No sign of wear on them at all.
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Old 02-03-2014, 05:08 PM   #592
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sosidge View Post
The thing is, there is no need to try and make the blades work. Roche do some non-bladed outdrives that work perfectly and the driveshafts can handle the strain. Tamiya also have some from a drift car but they would be harder to find.
Just like the 3Racing cups, the Roche cups deformed the pins on my DCJ axles in about 2 weekends worth of club racing on my TB-03. I was able to go about a month on blades before the slop began to develop and the blades were changed out. I'll opt for $3.50 every 1-2 months on blades rather than $20 every 2-3 weeks, with the occasional $10 outdrive replacement for every other axle.

Non-blade axles may work for many but not all. Our carpet track here is on the medium/small size, with a typical layout having at least two near switchbacks. Drop in, tap brakes, car rotates, nail throttle, repeat two corners later.
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Old 02-03-2014, 05:55 PM   #593
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the boiling bit sounds interesting...might try them from all the white tamiya blades i've managed to set aside (Stopped using them after the 1st few pairs broke on me).

i've used the 3Racing 3.5mm blades with relatively good success (2-3 racedays before they need to be replaced).

i'm also trying the white ones with some AW grease on the pinholes and the outdrive... hopefully that helps keep them on too...
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Old 02-04-2014, 11:53 AM   #594
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the only time ive broken a blade is when i hit a wall.. normal racing, no issues at all
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Old 02-04-2014, 01:08 PM   #595
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Talking battery stop and belt tensioner (2 for 1 )

I tried the belt tensioner on the bottom where I first put the battery stop and it fits nice the spacing is perfect from the stop on the servo mount to the stop on the belt tensioner. The battery sticks out past the chassis exactly the same from end to end. I just might leave it that way and see how it goes. I'll post a pic but it didn't come out very clear.
I wanted to ask also if I open up the upper deck just 2 mm can I get the pully out without removing the upper deck? Inquiring minds want to know!
Just my 2$
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Old 02-04-2014, 03:01 PM   #596
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You can just put a bearing and spacer in the centre post, that keeps the battery away from the belt.

I use a 2mm shim and 6x3mm Bearing, and the belt fits fine and runs free
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Old 02-04-2014, 05:54 PM   #597
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Like what Qatmix said... no need to bolt the whole tensioner assembly to the lower deck... just the screw with the bearings and spacer. found that the center post is around .5mm more inward than the servo mount so just add spacers as needed.
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Old 02-07-2014, 09:16 AM   #598
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Hi Guys

I really want a harder front roll bar, any idea when Tamiya are releasing some more roll bars? or is there any tamiya models that have roll bars that are shared with the 418? (417 ones do not fit)
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Old 02-07-2014, 07:40 PM   #599
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Qatmix View Post
Hi Guys

I really want a harder front roll bar, any idea when Tamiya are releasing some more roll bars? or is there any tamiya models that have roll bars that are shared with the 418? (417 ones do not fit)
Why don't they fit? Same diff used for the 417 and 418. So the bulk heads have the same spacing. Should fit
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Old 02-07-2014, 07:59 PM   #600
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Not to spam the thread but I am also bringing in the Hiro Seiko Screw kits for the 418. Blue top alumn screws and Titanium bottom. Matches the tamiya blue perfectly (Best looking blue on the market!).

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