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Old 01-29-2014, 03:53 PM   #571
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Originally Posted by xrayaustin View Post
Can somebody help me out here. I got the car finalized. I'm running a bls551 with the kit servo horn. I'm not getting equal throw both directions nor am I getting maximum throw available with dual rate and epa turned up. Do I need to offset the horn? Move the link to a different hole on the horn? Try a different horn completely? I'm confused

I run the BLS551 also. Like rosko mentioned, use the taller hole on the stock servo horn. After that, I posted this a few pages back:


I've always struggled to get even throw with Tamiya cars and Futaba servos. I found the best way to get it right is to angle the servo saver at about 30 degrees, to the right hand side (passenger), and shorten the link to about 39mm. This makes it pretty linear left and right. If you leave the horn at 0 degrees then you need a servo with a large sweep range, which you can get with a futaba by using programmable mixing, but the result is an uneven L/R bias.


Hope that helps.
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Old 01-29-2014, 04:01 PM   #572
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How many degrees of steering throw are you guys getting? I'm currently set up with one degree of positive toe and I'm getting 14 degrees equal throw without touching the radio settings. I'm using a Savox steering servo.
I'm pulling this from memory; I think, at full lock and 1 degree toe out, I get:

18.5 - 19 degrees on the outer wheel
28.5 - 30 degrees on the inner wheel.

The setup station and the linkages themselves have play, so that's why the figures vary.
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Old 01-29-2014, 04:07 PM   #573
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ittjv View Post
I run the BLS551 also. Like rosko mentioned, use the taller hole on the stock servo horn. After that, I posted this a few pages back:


I've always struggled to get even throw with Tamiya cars and Futaba servos. I found the best way to get it right is to angle the servo saver at about 30 degrees, to the right hand side (passenger), and shorten the link to about 39mm. This makes it pretty linear left and right. If you leave the horn at 0 degrees then you need a servo with a large sweep range, which you can get with a futaba by using programmable mixing, but the result is an uneven L/R bias.


Hope that helps.
When I posted I was already in the top hole on the hornand thats not working so i will try what you reccomended for the equal steering throw. But i guess I'll have to look into getting a longer horn to get full throw potential. Thanks for the help guys. Any other ideas would be appreciated. If somebody has got full throw with the stock horn id love to know how
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Old 01-29-2014, 06:07 PM   #574
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Originally Posted by ittjv View Post
I'm pulling this from memory; I think, at full lock and 1 degree toe out, I get:

18.5 - 19 degrees on the outer wheel
28.5 - 30 degrees on the inner wheel.

The setup station and the linkages themselves have play, so that's why the figures vary.
Cool thanks.
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Old 01-30-2014, 03:30 PM   #575
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Default Beefy C hubs

This is interesting, maybe less broken C hubs.

http://kentech.blogs.se/2014/01/30/n...berg-17665925/
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Old 01-31-2014, 05:27 PM   #576
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Who in the U.S. fully stocks parts for the 418? Towers didnt have much
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Old 01-31-2014, 05:33 PM   #577
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Old 01-31-2014, 05:50 PM   #578
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Who in the U.S. fully stocks parts for the 418? Towers didnt have much
I pick up all my parts here
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Old 02-02-2014, 02:24 PM   #579
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Thumbs up Out door asphalt

Ran my 418 for the first time Saturday. Car is very impressive. Quite and smooth drivetrain. Suspension felt very responsive but easy to drive. With some changes I was able to keep up with 416's and 417's . Just scratched the surface as far as adjustments so I think I can potentially shave 5 more tenths off with some fine tuning! Not bad for one afternoon of adjustments.
Tamiya once again got it right with this new chassis. I have the 417X and I thought that was an amazing handling car but this feels much better to me.
Had a couple of issues with spur gears not fitting between the pulleys but I found a Tamiya 105 pulley that with a 47 pinion that just barely fits got my FDR to 4.1 which is fine for 13.5.
The battery stop is not included like the 417X so I used a plastic servo mount off my TA05 that is identical to the one you use in the kit and put it on one of holes that located in the center and just clears the belt. Not sure why the 418 doesn't come with a battery stop for the center the holes are there and the 417 battery stop fits but didn't want to add 15 grams of weight to the car for now!
There is another racer with a 418 and between the two of us we are bound to come up with a setup that works to both of our satisfaction.
Just my 2$
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Old 02-02-2014, 02:43 PM   #580
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Speedtechrc.com is usually the best at getting parts. They are in SoCal near Tamiya HQ.
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Old 02-02-2014, 02:54 PM   #581
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Not sure why the 418 doesn't come with a battery stop for the center the holes are there and the 417 battery stop fits but didn't want to add 15 grams of weight to the car for now!
There is another racer with a 418 and between the two of us we are bound to come up with a setup that works to both of our satisfaction.
Just my 2$
There actually is a battery stop but for some reason it's not mentioned in the manual. The center post on the motor mount has a 3mm mounting hole (like the one on the servo mount). I just used a 3x8mm counter sunk screw and an old 3mm bearing along with a 2mm spacer and it's perfect. You don't need the 417 center piece anymore.
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Old 02-02-2014, 07:20 PM   #582
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Anyone have a good mod setup yet? I am having issues with the car pushing.

My 17.5 blinky car is great but my mod car just doesn't turn. I've tried long links and short links with similar feeling....

I have swap back to the ta05 c hubs as I find them more durable and helped a bit on steering.

Anyone else find the white cvd blades too hard?
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Old 02-02-2014, 07:33 PM   #583
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maxepower View Post
The battery stop is not included like the 417X so I used a plastic servo mount off my TA05 that is identical to the one you use in the kit and put it on one of holes that located in the center and just clears the belt. Not sure why the 418 doesn't come with a battery stop for the center the holes are there and the 417 battery stop fits but didn't want to add 15 grams of weight to the car for now!
There's a screw hole on the motor mount as c2tcardin mentioned. I just moved the belt tensioner from the top deck to the motor mount. shimmed the same as the battery stop on the servo holder. since the belt runs over the rear battery stop, it serves the same purpose so there actually is no need for the tensioner on the top deck. hths
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Old 02-02-2014, 08:59 PM   #584
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Talking RE: Outdoor Asphalt Set-up

I read the Kentech blog and saw the screw location which already has a screw going thru it on the other side and was going to put the bearing spacer in which makes more sense to use then just a screw. I like the idea of removing the tensioner and just using the bottom hole as a tensioner and battery stop. Two functions for a battery stop, not a bad idea.
I don't know why it's not part of the manual and why there are 2 holes in the bottom center of the chassis if not for a battery stop unless you need to add weight to your car then better for it to be low and in the center.
I here other racers complaining that the white blades are more brittle than the thinner black ones but so far no issues with mine. I guess if I do I can go back to the plastic outdrives with the aluminum sleeves.
Does anybody know of a brand of spur gears that are thin and had the hole pattern necessary for the pulleys to fit?
Just my 2$
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Old 02-02-2014, 10:36 PM   #585
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The Panaracer spur's fit well.
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