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Old 01-04-2014, 01:42 AM   #421
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Oil volume also makes a difference. I tested a bd7 and 3k in that diff feels like 2k in the tamiya. Plus you use half a bottle of oil to fill it up
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Old 01-04-2014, 03:35 AM   #422
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AE specifically designed their diff to use typical shock oils, so racers could use what they already have.

-Mike
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Old 01-04-2014, 04:39 AM   #423
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Originally Posted by grippgoat View Post
AE specifically designed their diff to use typical shock oils, so racers could use what they already have.

-Mike
I would prefer a good car and then just buy some extra oils
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Old 01-04-2014, 11:19 AM   #424
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I would prefer a good car and then just buy some extra oils
lol.. True to his name.


Can anyone tell me what the 3mm grub screw, that comes in the A bag, is for?
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Old 01-04-2014, 11:39 AM   #425
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Not sure if this has happened to anyone else yet but I broke the left "C" hub today at the track. Glad I got the kit with the spare parts, though I was hoping not to need any of them so soon. Weird thing was I hadn't hit anything that hard and I've never broke one before either.

Just realized the spare parts bag doesn't include spare "C" hubs. DOH!
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Old 01-04-2014, 12:50 PM   #426
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I don't think it's possible to reliably run a Tamiya on US indoor tracks without aluminum or bendy plastic c-hubs.
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Old 01-04-2014, 12:56 PM   #427
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grippgoat View Post
AE specifically designed their diff to use typical shock oils, so racers could use what they already have.

-Mike
Isn't diff oil, just thicker shock oil? I.e they are all silicon oil?

For a 21.5 blinky, I was planning in using 2k AE oil.
Any thoughts?

Some posts mention to use the Kyosho 2k oil. How different is that compared to the AE oil or any other oil?
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Old 01-04-2014, 01:10 PM   #428
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ittjv View Post
lol.. True to his name.


Can anyone tell me what the 3mm grub screw, that comes in the A bag, is for?
It's an alternative for the front of the motor mount if you want it to float on the post instead of being firmly attached.
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Old 01-04-2014, 03:45 PM   #429
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I don't think it's possible to reliably run a Tamiya on US indoor tracks without aluminum or bendy plastic c-hubs.
Anyone making aluminum front end parts for the 418 yet?
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Old 01-04-2014, 03:48 PM   #430
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Double

Last edited by kerry; 01-04-2014 at 03:52 PM. Reason: Double post
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Old 01-04-2014, 04:12 PM   #431
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Mine is fully build up with electronics, just need to setup the correct camber and toe-in or out settings.
The car will be tested next week, look forward to run it
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Old 01-04-2014, 04:21 PM   #432
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Mine is now built for two or three weeks, let you Show on YouTube

youtube.com/watch?v=W7Vgft-uA_A

Please copy, why I not allowed to Show you by the link
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Old 01-04-2014, 04:24 PM   #433
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Originally Posted by addicted2blue View Post
Mine is fully build up with electronics, just need to setup the correct camber and toe-in or out settings.
The car will be tested next week, look forward to run it
I hope your alone on the track
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Old 01-04-2014, 05:04 PM   #434
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Anyone making aluminum front end parts for the 418 yet?
I actually had some Aluminum C hubs, made by 3 Racing, for my 417 that I never used. I just swapped out the broken one on my 418 for one of these and it fits nicely just have to shim it a little differently to get out some of the slop.
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Old 01-04-2014, 06:22 PM   #435
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So I'm going to order some Tamiya "C" hubs but I'm also thinking of getting some new springs. I though the stock springs were too soft so I swapped them for the set I had on the 417, Tamiya Whites (Extra Stiff) on the front and Tamiya Blue (Stiff) from the 53440 on road spring set. Everyone here seems to favor the HPI Silvers but I'm unsure which ones to order, does anyone have a part number for them or perhaps the part number for the Ride Red's?
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