Originally Posted by goin2drt
Thanks for all the help on where to buy, I will check around.
What about the must haves, hop-up's, needed or is the box car ready to go?
Apart from spur gear, oils and springs I reckon it is ready to go from the box. You could survive with the springs and oil - but you would be ready to change pretty quick. I ran them once for "fun". I don't expect it will happen again.
As far as hop ups? You don't really need any, however, there is still plenty to change!
I'll cut and paste from about 60 pages and 4months back
I'm running a TRF418 in 13.5t blinky, as far a changes from box stock I have the following as I wanted to build "my" ultimate 418 (based on the stock chassis anyway);
- Titanium and blue aluminium screws - they look cooler (and save a very marginal amount of weight). I even tracked down some 2.6mm x 8mm ones you don't need these to be under weight!
- TRF direct servo mount. I don't advise running one if your track has boards!
- Red Orings in the diff - not needed, but apparently leak less. Consumable item.
- 3000wt diff oil - 900 from the kit would probably be okay, but it's a consumable anyway.
- 450wt shock oil - similar to above the 400 from the kit would be okay, consumable.
- HPI Silversprings - springs are a tuning tool, and pretty much anyone and everyone is running ride red or HPI silver or close to it (on asphalt anyway), so why wouldn't i.
- TRF ball nut and titanium hollow set screws - make removing shocks ever so slightly easier to remove. Not required to go fast.
- TRF low friction damper V parts - not even the team guys bother with these, but they are a couple of bucks and I wanted to try them. Not required to go fast.
- Titanium coated suspension shafts. They dropped these from the 418 (417 had them) and again, I wanted them as part of my no compromise build. Not required to go fast.
- Blue O rings for the shocks. Apparently better than the clear ones. Consumable item again.
- Mr Roche POM C blades front and rear. They are a little harder than the stock ones and last longer. They are also pink and look cool.
- AVID bearings. I had a seal fail in one of the 1050's and it was ruined, so I replaced the lot.
- Damper spacers on the steering - purely cosmetic. No function at all.
- TRF body mounts. Mildly functional. But they look cool too.
- countersunk washers. Used on the shock towers, slightly stronger mount. MR runs like this sometimes, must be better
- A pair of 630 bearings - to make a low drag rear lipo stop. The kit should include this I think. $5 worth!
- new 4deg hubs. Better clearance for the DCJs. I'll be putting 6deg on with my next rebuild.
- different spur gear. No way to achieve the FDR I need for 13.5t blinky with the stock spur. 74t / 37t in 48p for me for now.
- A set of 3,4,5mm shims. I didn't use many, the keys ones are extra under the shock pistons, on the steering posts and also in the hubs.
Most of the above only cost a few bucks each (but does add up) but absolutely none of them are either required nor likely to make a novice like me any faster. I also used none of the stock grease etc - again overkill, I've got all the TRF VG greases. Makes me feel better!