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Old 08-17-2014, 12:51 PM   #1666
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Used the car today for the first time and after so long (7yrs out of the hobby) thought i would be just happy to go around. But even though I was being on the cautious side and driving smooth it came flooding back pretty quick and I was reasonably competitive.

I did find that the car seemed to push on corner entry and also mid corner which stopped me from properly being able to hook into the tight turns. Track was outdoor med-low grip asphalt. My question is what should I be looking to change to improve this as I am sure this was where I was losing the time.

Car is basically kit setup but with MR33 Red springs. I use 400 oil in shocks but they do have about 50% rebound?? I was using the same tyres and additive as everyone else.

I am thinking softer spring at the front and maybe rebuilding the shocks with 0 rebound might be the first thing to try??
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Old 08-17-2014, 03:53 PM   #1667
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Used the car today for the first time and after so long (7yrs out of the hobby) thought i would be just happy to go around. But even though I was being on the cautious side and driving smooth it came flooding back pretty quick and I was reasonably competitive.

I did find that the car seemed to push on corner entry and also mid corner which stopped me from properly being able to hook into the tight turns. Track was outdoor med-low grip asphalt. My question is what should I be looking to change to improve this as I am sure this was where I was losing the time.

Car is basically kit setup but with MR33 Red springs. I use 400 oil in shocks but they do have about 50% rebound?? I was using the same tyres and additive as everyone else.

I am thinking softer spring at the front and maybe rebuilding the shocks with 0 rebound might be the first thing to try??
when u say mostly kit setup does that mean the only thing u changed was the springs and shock oil?

I would definitely drill ur shock caps and run as close to 0 rebound as you can. Go to hpi silvers if you have them. (If not no biggy).

I would also go to at least 1000 in the rear diff if not 2000.(kit oil is too light). Also another adjustment you could try is more rear droop, rake in the ride height, more front camber gain, and trying anti dive. Also if you are running stock the kit setup has way too much toe. U could leave the E block on the rear and flip the FR blocks to the opposite the way the kit shows to get less toe.

those will all help. If you adjust all that u should get the car to spin out lol. Just try some things and find a good balance.

anything more than that I will have to see where you'reat now
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Old 08-17-2014, 08:52 PM   #1668
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Kit is XA/E at 3deg.

And you think 3deg is too much?

Does seem to be what all the factory guys run, but is probably too much for anything other than mod.

Reversing the XA for A/E will give 2deg. That does sound better for stock classes.
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Old 08-17-2014, 08:54 PM   #1669
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Kit is XA/E at 3deg.

And you think 3deg is too much?

Does seem to be what all the factory guys run, but is probably too much for anything other than mod.

Reversing the XA for A/E will give 2deg. That does sound better for stock classes.
Yep exactly flipping them makes less toe. On my car i run the E with a b block for 1.5 it frees the car up and let's it rotate and wrap the corner nicely
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Old 08-18-2014, 01:25 AM   #1670
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What motor class are you running? 13.5 B isn't it?
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Old 08-18-2014, 01:57 AM   #1671
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when u say mostly kit setup does that mean the only thing u changed was the springs and shock oil?

I would definitely drill ur shock caps and run as close to 0 rebound as you can. Go to hpi silvers if you have them. (If not no biggy).

I would also go to at least 1000 in the rear diff if not 2000.(kit oil is too light). Also another adjustment you could try is more rear droop, rake in the ride height, more front camber gain, and trying anti dive. Also if you are running stock the kit setup has way too much toe. U could leave the E block on the rear and flip the FR blocks to the opposite the way the kit shows to get less toe.

those will all help. If you adjust all that u should get the car to spin out lol. Just try some things and find a good balance.

anything more than that I will have to see where you'reat now
Thanks Austin. I am running a 17.5t motor and the car has 1300 weight oil in the rear diff and the MR33 Red springs are rated at 301 so very similar to HPI Silver.
Current settings are 6mm ride height front and rear, 2 degree camber all round, 3 degree toe in at rear and 1 degree toe out front. Downstops at 6 front and 5 rear on Hudy tool.

I will definitely start by rebuilding the shocks with 0 rebound as a start and maybe buy the rear 2 degree axle block .

Last edited by acutts; 08-18-2014 at 02:09 AM.
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Old 08-18-2014, 02:08 AM   #1672
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Yep exactly flipping them makes less toe. On my car i run the E with a b block for 1.5 it frees the car up and let's it rotate and wrap the corner nicely
What are the correct parts to buy to run 2 degree rear toe? Do I need to buy the B rear Block? Part 54070??
If I get that will that give me 2 degree toe if I leave the other blocks alone?
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Old 08-18-2014, 02:13 AM   #1673
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Thanks Austin. I am running 1300 weight oil in the rear diff and the MR33 Red springs are rated at 301 so very similar to HPI Silver.
Current settings are 6mm ride height front and rear, 2 degree camber all round, 3 degree toe in at rear and 1 degree toe out front. Downstops at 6 front and 5 rear on Hudy tool.

I will definitely start by rebuilding the shocks with 0 rebound as a start and maybe buy the rear 2 degree axle block .
6mm is kind of high. Is the track u race on bumpy? If not lower the car and I'll have more overall grip. Also no need to buy new blocks... just flip them in the rear.

also 1 degree toe out in the front is a lot imo. I usually run heads up or maybe a tiny bit out. Going to heads up will also make it turn more initially when off power which is what u said u needed. So maybe take a little front toe out too. I'm not too sure about the ddown stop gauge because I measure my droop differently but still a little more rear droop will help as well.

Thanks
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Old 08-18-2014, 02:16 AM   #1674
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What are the correct parts to buy to run 2 degree rear toe? Do I need to buy the B rear Block? Part 54070??
If I get that will that give me 2 degree toe if I leave the other blocks alone?
No. E in the rear with a B front is 1.5. Kit setting is 3. If you take the blocks the way they are now on ur car and flip them backwards ull have 2 degree.

thanks
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Old 08-18-2014, 02:30 AM   #1675
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What are the correct parts to buy to run 2 degree rear toe? Do I need to buy the B rear Block? Part 54070??
If I get that will that give me 2 degree toe if I leave the other blocks alone?
C block will give you 2 deg rear toe (XA/C), but you would be better running X/D so the track width stays the same as box
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Old 08-18-2014, 02:38 AM   #1676
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No. E in the rear with a B front is 1.5. Kit setting is 3. If you take the blocks the way they are now on ur car and flip them backwards ull have 2 degree.

thanks
Thanks Will try all that. Just out of interest is there a rear block that will give 2 degree rather than flipping the front ones? Reason I ask as it is quicker to switch out the rear block if you wanted to flip between the 2.
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Old 08-18-2014, 02:39 AM   #1677
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C block will give you 2 deg rear toe (XA/C), but you would be better running X/D so the track width stays the same as box
Yes but a little bit wide in the rear for stock isn't necessarily a bad thing.. keeps it freed up and is one of the most crucial things imo for stock
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Old 08-18-2014, 02:39 AM   #1678
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C block will give you 2 deg rear toe (XA/C), but you would be better running X/D so the track width stays the same as box
Oh I see now so flipping the front gives 2 degree but leaves the track width the same!
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Old 08-18-2014, 02:40 AM   #1679
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Thanks Will try all that. Just out of interest is there a rear block that will give 2 degree rather than flipping the front ones? Reason I ask as it is quicker to switch out the rear block if you wanted to flip between the 2.
Xa/ C
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Old 08-18-2014, 02:55 AM   #1680
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Xa/ C
Thanks but I see now that the reason for changing the fronts round is to keep track width the same which is preferable? Sorry for the level of understanding ... sadly due to long time out of the hobby and 1st time with a TRF chassis'd car.
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