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Old 08-14-2014, 04:43 PM   #1621
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Tamiya has nearly been left for dead outside of its pro drivers and a handful of enthusiasts. I can't tell you the last time I saw a Tamiya car in the top 10 of any big race in the US. It seems like it's been replaced by Yokomo and other brands in the results at ETS races as well.

It took Tower forever to sell their 418 kits, even at $400, and I personally know where 5 of them went at that price.

Of course I could move on to XRay or AMX or something else on a whim, I do it all the time. But I genuinely love how this car feels on carpet and want to find a way to make it work for me. So much so that I've been in contact with 4 different RC manufacturers today asking them about the possibility of producing new c-hubs, which is how I found out about the new pieces from Square (Thanks Dai.)

I know this thread is nearly useless for information, always has been. Mostly I come here to troll because you're almost all a bunch of nut huggers with no useful advice, and you're quick to demean anybody that dares speak out about a car's shortcomings. It's entertainment for me and quite a few others.

And finally, should I make the show in either of the two classes at IIC with this car, guess who won't be getting the setup? That's right, you losers.
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Old 08-14-2014, 04:44 PM   #1622
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Thanks for the inputs, I will look into the Mr.Roche blades.
I found that the arc blades work really well as well.
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Old 08-14-2014, 04:45 PM   #1623
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Dude, everyone dropped that already. You are the one who keeps bringing it up.

Staying on topic; do you use the metal outdrives with no blades (V5 outdrives)? Maybe running the plastic outdrives (even though they tend to notch) might help dissipate some of the impact? It might be enough to keep you in the race. Worth a shot, no?
I've been sticking with the bladed outdrives using the MR Roche blades. I grease them up with anti-wear or the green grease and they seem to do okay. The crack pretty quick around the pins, but don't break entirely so I can usually get a full night from a set now.

Curiously, they did seem to last quite a bit longer when I tested the bend-dont-break aluminum c-hubs. I ran 830 laps that day, all modified. Managed to get through on a single set that could have gone a while longer.
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Old 08-14-2014, 05:40 PM   #1624
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I do not expect parts to break during the normal taps that anybody fast enough to make the top 10 at a big race is going to encounter. And that's the issue here. Cars can't break on taps. It's simply unforgivable.
There are some that are worse. Ever owned a Hotbodies?

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Originally Posted by syndr0me View Post

I know this thread is nearly useless for information, always has been. Mostly I come here to troll because you're almost all a bunch of nut huggers with no useful advice, and you're quick to demean anybody that dares speak out about a car's shortcomings. It's entertainment for me and quite a few others.

And finally, should I make the show in either of the two classes at IIC with this car, guess who won't be getting the setup? That's right, you losers.
That, friends, is a sick burn.
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Old 08-14-2014, 06:25 PM   #1625
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Originally Posted by syndr0me View Post
Tamiya has nearly been left for dead outsideissuesof its pro drivers and a handful of enthusiasts. I can't tell you the last time I saw a Tamiya car in the top 10 of any big race in the US. It seems like it's been replaced by Yokomo and other brands in the results at ETS races as well.

It took Tower forever to sell their 418 kits, even at $400, and I personally know where 5 of them went at that price.

Of course I could move on to XRay or AMX or something else on a whim, I do it all the time. But I genuinely love how this car feels on carpet and want to find a way to make it work for me. So much so that I've been in contact with 4 different RC manufacturers today asking them about the possibility of producing new c-hubs, which is how I found out about the new pieces from Square (Thanks Dai.)

I know this thread is nearly useless for information, always has been. Mostly I come here to troll because you're almost all a bunch of nut huggers with no useful advice, and you're quick to demean anybody that dares speak out about a car's shortcomings. It's entertainment for me and quite a few others.

And finally, should I make the show in either of the two classes at IIC with this car, guess who won't be getting the setup? That's right, you losers.
Epic lol I love adam! But on a different note of the cars durability Issues. I did finish 2nd at Nats 3 weeks ago with one lol needless to say sadly the other Tamiyawere kind of off pace. I know art struggled and I hhaven't seen that in awhile
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Old 08-14-2014, 06:58 PM   #1626
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Originally Posted by syndr0me View Post
I've been sticking with the bladed outdrives using the MR Roche blades. I grease them up with anti-wear or the green grease and they seem to do okay. The crack pretty quick around the pins, but don't break entirely so I can usually get a full night from a set now.

Curiously, they did seem to last quite a bit longer when I tested the bend-dont-break aluminum c-hubs. I ran 830 laps that day, all modified. Managed to get through on a single set that could have gone a while longer.
If you spent more time on the msg boards, and less time on the track boards, you wouldn't be bending as many parts
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Old 08-14-2014, 07:35 PM   #1627
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Epic lol I love adam! But on a different note of the cars durability Issues. I did finish 2nd at Nats 3 weeks ago with one lol needless to say sadly the other Tamiyawere kind of off pace. I know art struggled and I hhaven't seen that in awhile
Oh yeah I forgot you ran the car at nats! That's probably the best result for Tamiya at a US race in years. Congratulations on the result. You gonna join us at IIC this year? Maybe MHIC? I have some c-hubs you can borrow.

Sounds like the track for nats was huge and far away. We're used to being right on top of the cars at our carpet and asphalt tracks, so going to something like that is a lot to overcome in one weekend.
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Old 08-14-2014, 08:37 PM   #1628
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Oh yeah I forgot you ran the car at nats! That's probably the best result for Tamiya at a US race in years. Congratulations on the result. You gonna join us at IIC this year? Maybe MHIC? I have some c-hubs you can borrow.

Sounds like the track for nats was huge and far away. We're used to being right on top of the cars at our carpet and asphalt tracks, so going to something like that is a lot to overcome in one weekend.
Definitely not mile high... may still do Vegas it's like a 60 40 shot. Having to see what everything looks like. Hope to make it. Dont worry im stocked on hubs lol
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Old 08-14-2014, 08:42 PM   #1629
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Hey Adam,

I've been having a good summer with my 417.5 (417 Smokem deck, full 418 plastics) up here in the northwest. Modified.

I too found the new C-hubs a bit fragile. So, I'm running the softer TB04 hubs, and sort of like you said earlier, the car got pushymushy. The one thing that brought it around is a medium rear swaybar. I've yet to find a pro setup with the medium rear bar listed, but man, it has worked for me. And the nice thing is that the softer c-hubs simply don't break. They're rather marvelous in that way. Granted, this is on asphalt, so maybe the utility of my experience is limited for you. And, maybe you've tried the medium bar and no bueno.

So, at the risk of adding to the useless post count, may I offer: TB04 c-hubs/medium rear swaybar.

BTW, "nuthugger." I'm going to try working that into my lexicon
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Old 08-14-2014, 09:47 PM   #1630
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Hey Adam,

I've been having a good summer with my 417.5 (417 Smokem deck, full 418 plastics) up here in the northwest. Modified.

I too found the new C-hubs a bit fragile. So, I'm running the softer TB04 hubs, and sort of like you said earlier, the car got pushymushy. The one thing that brought it around is a medium rear swaybar. I've yet to find a pro setup with the medium rear bar listed, but man, it has worked for me. And the nice thing is that the softer c-hubs simply don't break. They're rather marvelous in that way. Granted, this is on asphalt, so maybe the utility of my experience is limited for you. And, maybe you've tried the medium bar and no bueno.

So, at the risk of adding to the useless post count, may I offer: TB04 c-hubs/medium rear swaybar.

BTW, "nuthugger." I'm going to try working that into my lexicon
Good to hear Todd. I'll give the medium sway bar in the rear a try next time I'm at the track! I need to pick up the kit, I'd like a thinner one for the front as well. I've been looking for ways to make the front of the car roll more.

I've got the gumby c-hubs on my car now too while I wait for parts to arrive. On carpet they make the car push and rather inconsistent in the middle of the turn, but like you said, they're easily the most durable c-hub in existence. For practice nights, it's easy enough to abide by.
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Old 08-15-2014, 01:28 AM   #1631
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Originally Posted by syndr0me View Post
Good to hear Todd. I'll give the medium sway bar in the rear a try next time I'm at the track! I need to pick up the kit, I'd like a thinner one for the front as well. I've been looking for ways to make the front of the car roll more.

I've got the gumby c-hubs on my car now too while I wait for parts to arrive. On carpet they make the car push and rather inconsistent in the middle of the turn, but like you said, they're easily the most durable c-hub in existence. For practice nights, it's easy enough to abide by.


Why don't yo download RC CREW CHEIF, load your current setup and make changes from there.
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Old 08-15-2014, 06:29 AM   #1632
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Can I use the kit setup for medium size, medium grip asphalt tracks without significant modifications?

I'm new to on road, but comes from 1/8 e buggy off road.

My debut to on road is going OK, I've relatively quickly picked up an acceptable pace compared to other TC drivers.

I run the 418 config detailed in my signature below.

I just want a neutral setup to begin with, so is the kit setup usable for medium size, medium grip asphalt tracks?

Or are there some "must do" changes I need to make to the kit setup or can you link to other setups that might be better "standard neutral" asphalt setups.

I have read somewhere that the hardest springs that comes with the kit are equivalent to HPI Silvers, which many uses. Should I use these instead?

I'm no setup guru, so I just want a nice neutral setup to work from, and not a deeply personalized setup that suits a specific driver.
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Old 08-15-2014, 06:46 AM   #1633
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Originally Posted by Salkin View Post
Can I use the kit setup for medium size, medium grip asphalt tracks without significant modifications?

I'm new to on road, but comes from 1/8 e buggy off road.

My debut to on road is going OK, I've relatively quickly picked up an acceptable pace compared to other TC drivers.

I run the 418 config detailed in my signature below.

I just want a neutral setup to begin with, so is the kit setup usable for medium size, medium grip asphalt tracks?

Or are there some "must do" changes I need to make to the kit setup or can you link to other setups that might be better "standard neutral" asphalt setups.

I have read somewhere that the hardest springs that comes with the kit are equivalent to HPI Silvers, which many uses. Should I use these instead?

I'm no setup guru, so I just want a nice neutral setup to work from, and not a deeply personalized setup that suits a specific driver.
Kit setup is pretty good, it is what I am running. The springs are the only problem, although the hard Tamiya springs are similar to the HPI silver, there is a really big gap between the Tamiya rates so you can't do any fine tuning. The popular after market springs all have much closer gaps between rates.
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Old 08-15-2014, 06:53 AM   #1634
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OK, I'll stick with the kit setup for now
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Old 08-15-2014, 08:27 AM   #1635
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And finally, should I make the show in either of the two classes at IIC with this car, guess who won't be getting the setup? That's right, you losers.
I'm sure Victor, Marc and Jilles would be disappointed.
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