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Old 01-29-2016, 10:14 AM   #1216
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smaller gears
I was able to figure it out. The kimbrough pinion I was using is incorrect type for the motor I am using. The Justock 3650 has a raised area around in the bearing. The way that the pinion was designed, it will not work. Because the pinion will not go all the way down the motor shaft.

All the time I had thought I built it wrong.
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Old 02-01-2016, 06:13 PM   #1217
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Just posted my spare EXO chassis conversion on the for sale forums. Everything you need except longer front hinge pins.
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Old 04-15-2016, 06:08 PM   #1218
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Default Rear direct coupler

I'm new to all of this but is it possible to put a front direct coupling in the rear gear box and function correctly?
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Old 04-15-2016, 06:20 PM   #1219
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I'm new to all of this but is it possible to put a front direct coupling in the rear gear box and function correctly?
Would work fine. Gearboxes are identical along with gears. Just make sure to have it in the correct orientation. You must be making a drift car?
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Old 04-15-2016, 06:25 PM   #1220
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Originally Posted by RS_ZACH View Post
I was able to figure it out. The kimbrough pinion I was using is incorrect type for the motor I am using. The Justock 3650 has a raised area around in the bearing. The way that the pinion was designed, it will not work. Because the pinion will not go all the way down the motor shaft.

All the time I had thought I built it wrong.
The narrow CRC pinions work well in this chassis. Everything else seems to wide.
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Old 04-15-2016, 11:55 PM   #1221
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Would work fine. Gearboxes are identical along with gears. Just make sure to have it in the correct orientation. You must be making a drift car?
No, would it create too much power at the back?
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Old 04-16-2016, 12:26 AM   #1222
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No, would it create too much power at the back?
Why would it make too much power? You won't turn very well without a diff in rear. Are you looking for all locked diffs like a rock crawler or straight line racing?
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Old 04-16-2016, 06:28 AM   #1223
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Why would it make too much power? You won't turn very well without a diff in rear. Are you looking for all locked diffs like a rock crawler or straight line racing?
I want the best touring car I can make from this thing. But I don't understand the physical trade offs of putting a direct coupling versus a geared differential.
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Old 04-16-2016, 07:07 AM   #1224
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I want the best touring car I can make from this thing. But I don't understand the physical trade offs of putting a direct coupling versus a geared differential.
If you are trying to make a touring car the direct coupling or spool goes in the front. There is no condition where you would run it in the back. If you are looking for upgrades the first thing I would do is order the Exotek Exo 6 chassis and TB04 upgrade kit. It makes a huge difference and gets the weight of the car to a reasonable level. Stock, the car is a pig. Pick up some Yokomo springs. Blues and Pinks seem to be the popular choice. Make sure your gearboxes are not bound up. Stock plastic diff gears are garbage. Replace with the metal gears. You can get by with the stock gear diff up front if you run a heavy silicone. I'm running Gravity 2.5 million up front and Associated 2000wt in the rear diff. Stock steel outdrives groove up immediately. You can run the optional aluminum outdrives that use blades but the stock swingshafts will be too long. Tamiya offers a 42mm that should work.

Hope this helps.
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Old 04-16-2016, 09:28 AM   #1225
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I want the best touring car I can make from this thing. But I don't understand the physical trade offs of putting a direct coupling versus a geared differential.
A differential allows the wheels in the back to travel at different rates of speed while traversing a corner. While going around a corner, the outside wheel rotates faster than the inner wheel and thus remains in control.
If there is a spool in the rear this differing of wheel speed wouldn't exist and the inside wheel of the corner would be slipping and sliding throwing the ass end of the car around like a drifter.
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Old 04-16-2016, 11:07 AM   #1226
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Originally Posted by Chaz955i View Post
If you are trying to make a touring car the direct coupling or spool goes in the front. There is no condition where you would run it in the back. If you are looking for upgrades the first thing I would do is order the Exotek Exo 6 chassis and TB04 upgrade kit. It makes a huge difference and gets the weight of the car to a reasonable level. Stock, the car is a pig. Pick up some Yokomo springs. Blues and Pinks seem to be the popular choice. Make sure your gearboxes are not bound up. Stock plastic diff gears are garbage. Replace with the metal gears. You can get by with the stock gear diff up front if you run a heavy silicone. I'm running Gravity 2.5 million up front and Associated 2000wt in the rear diff. Stock steel outdrives groove up immediately. You can run the optional aluminum outdrives that use blades but the stock swingshafts will be too long. Tamiya offers a 42mm that should work.

Hope this helps.
Wish I could vote you up. But thank you for your help. There are a couple of things I don't understand about your post, though.

1) I am planning on getting the exotek conversion sets once i get a little but better at actual racing. I think at this point I'm too much of a beginner to really be running a full carbon fiber chassis.
2)What do you mean by gearboxes bound up?
3) I just upgraded the rear differential to use the metal gears and shafts, and used the 900 tamiya damper oil, which is close to the heaviest weight they have.
4) My front differential was replaced with the front direct coupling
5)What are steel outdrives groove up ?! What does this mean? Are you talking about the dampers?
6) I purchased swing shafts but I have not received them yet. That sucks if they won't fit!!
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Old 04-16-2016, 11:08 AM   #1227
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speed_dmon View Post
A differential allows the wheels in the back to travel at different rates of speed while traversing a corner. While going around a corner, the outside wheel rotates faster than the inner wheel and thus remains in control.
If there is a spool in the rear this differing of wheel speed wouldn't exist and the inside wheel of the corner would be slipping and sliding throwing the ass end of the car around like a drifter.
Awesome explanation. Thank you.
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Old 04-16-2016, 04:24 PM   #1228
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Originally Posted by nubs View Post
Wish I could vote you up. But thank you for your help. There are a couple of things I don't understand about your post, though.

1) I am planning on getting the exotek conversion sets once i get a little but better at actual racing. I think at this point I'm too much of a beginner to really be running a full carbon fiber chassis.
2)What do you mean by gearboxes bound up?
3) I just upgraded the rear differential to use the metal gears and shafts, and used the 900 tamiya damper oil, which is close to the heaviest weight they have.
4) My front differential was replaced with the front direct coupling
5)What are steel outdrives groove up ?! What does this mean? Are you talking about the dampers?
6) I purchased swing shafts but I have not received them yet. That sucks if they won't fit!!
1. The Exotek chassis is much more consistent in the way it handles. You don't need to be an expert to take advantage of this and IMO you are doing yourself a disservice doing any upgrade before this.

2. I use .1 mm shims between the gearbox halves to keep them from binding up the outdrive bearings. The drivetrain is much smoother. Your car may or may not need this. With or without you don't need to crank down the screws when assembling the diff halves.

3, Personal preference but I like very little diff action at the front. Not sure what how the Tamiya equates with Associated silicone but you don't need to go really heavy on the rear diff. For some conditions it can work but if you are a somewhat new I'd be careful with that. Can make the car push on corner entry and oversteer on corner exit.

4. Good, then you don't have to worry about the weight of silicone for the front diff. It is pricey.

5. The cross pins in the dogbones (swingshafts) will wear a groove in the outdrives. Once this happens the suspension will start to bind up under compression. The steel outdrives on my car didn't last three races running 17.5. Maybe I got a bad set but running on carpet I find this unacceptable.

6. With the Tamiya alloy outdrives that use the plastic blade there was interference when the suspension compressed. No way the 44mm (stock length on a TB04Pro II)work on my car.
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Old 04-17-2016, 12:23 PM   #1229
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I understand the grooves. I see some.
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Old 04-28-2016, 05:07 PM   #1230
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Does anyone have some advice about the types of shims I should be using specifically which extra packs should I be buying to shore up any "slop" in the car? Is there a web site that has like a shim set with like 10 or 20 of each type of shim?
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