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Old 12-31-2014, 10:53 AM   #1036
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I actually run on medium grip asphalt. I wish there were carpet races here in Las Vegas..
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Old 12-31-2014, 11:12 AM   #1037
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I also recently built one of these to use in USGT. In many ways it exceeded expectations based on the low price I paid though I have found that as traction comes up the car starts to suffer from very inconsistent handling. I have a feeling this is made worse by a very soft chassis at the front end. I've picked up some optional springs and have gone heavier on damping so interested to see if this helps. Either way it was a fun build and a pretty neat car. Expecting somewhat equal performance against purpose built race chassis is a tall order.
Have you tried the Carbon reinforced upper pieces or the suspension pieces yet?
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Old 12-31-2014, 11:21 AM   #1038
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Have you tried the Carbon reinforced upper pieces or the suspension pieces yet?
I have not and that may help. Right now I'm working on springs and damping because I think I was pretty far off on overall balance but you are correct that the stiffer suspension parts should help with some of the weird handling that occurs with high traction.
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Old 12-31-2014, 12:58 PM   #1039
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I have found that as traction comes up the car starts to suffer from very inconsistent handling.
Describe inconsistent please?

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I have not and that may help. Right now I'm working on springs and damping because I think I was pretty far off on overall balance but you are correct that the stiffer suspension parts should help with some of the weird handling that occurs with high traction.
My Tamiya TCS baseline setup is (or, was) the big bore yellow in the front and black in the rear, and 35wt Associated. If the car needs more overall grip (asphalt) OR you want to soften it up to avoid traction roll (carpet), run the reds in the rear and the blacks in the front. Tamiya yellows are super close to HPI black coated silver. When I measure them my way, they are so close as to call them identical.

I think my past issues with my TB04 are tied to the chassis being so warped out of the package it was (for my purposes anyway) unusable. The front end was tipped up like .75mm and the rear was almost 1mm, plus it had a twist in it so it had an insane amount of tweek. I spent hours fixing mine with a heat gun and a bunch of C clamps. The carbon rein one was worse than the kit chassis. You might consider putting a straight edge on the bottom of yours and see if the parts where the suspension blocks mount are parallel with the rest of the chassis, and more importantly, each other. Then I'd work out fixing that. Plus it's free.

My advice is if you really want to be competitive against carbon cars, you need to buy one. Of course, that depends on how competitive your class is. I was right there locally in the ROAR 17.5 class with my TB03 last year, 60 grams overweight and everything.
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Old 12-31-2014, 01:07 PM   #1040
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Describe inconsistent please?
Through long sweepers the car will be smooth and unexpectedly dig like almost like it is suddenly getting a large weight transfer to the outside front tire. Seems to get worse as traction comes up. The car seems a bit soft stock so one idea was the car was just reaching the end of travel and once locked up was getting a spike in weight to the outside tire. I may be completely wrong in what I'm thinking. So far I'm going up one step on the front spring and also going to 40 wt in the shocks from the 35 I was using to possibly change the rate the suspension dumps over in a corner. Car seems to have plenty of steering so going up on the front springs shouldn't hurt that and maybe calm it down. Should be able to try out the changes tomorrow.
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Old 12-31-2014, 01:30 PM   #1041
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Originally Posted by Chaz955i View Post
Through long sweepers the car will be smooth and unexpectedly dig like almost like it is suddenly getting a large weight transfer to the outside front tire. Seems to get worse as traction comes up. The car seems a bit soft stock so one idea was the car was just reaching the end of travel and once locked up was getting a spike in weight to the outside tire. I may be completely wrong in what I'm thinking. So far I'm going up one step on the front spring and also going to 40 wt in the shocks from the 35 I was using to possibly change the rate the suspension dumps over in a corner. Car seems to have plenty of steering so going up on the front springs shouldn't hurt that and maybe calm it down. Should be able to try out the changes tomorrow.
I see.

Most of my experience on carpet is from running a foam tire oval car. If you showed up at the track before the groove came in and the grip came up and the car was just money, you knew it was going to be a LONG weekend because once the grip came up it was going to do exactly what you describe and your life was going to be miserable. The car needs to be too tight when you unload and conditions are green.

In USGT I'd be inclined to run Yokomo pink and blue springs. They are class legal and softer than the HPI/Tamiya springs. If the car cases (bottoms out) before the tire develops enough grip to hook an edge and tip it, it almost saves you. Don't let it get too soft though!

I'd also consider gluing up the sidewall of the outside front tire from the wheel to halfway into the letters on the sidewall. Only that tire for now. When I ran on the Gravity carpet tires at IIC I had to glue both sides of the fronts for the same reason.

I'd also consider raising the roll center in the front by removing all the spacers under the suspension blocks, if you haven't done that already. If that is successful, and you need more, I'd add a half a mm under the front inner camber link.

In any case, post back what you learn. I'm interested to hear.
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Old 12-31-2014, 10:32 PM   #1042
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Describe inconsistent please?



My Tamiya TCS baseline setup is (or, was) the big bore yellow in the front and black in the rear, and 35wt Associated. If the car needs more overall grip (asphalt) OR you want to soften it up to avoid traction roll (carpet), run the reds in the rear and the blacks in the front. Tamiya yellows are super close to HPI black coated silver. When I measure them my way, they are so close as to call them identical.

I think my past issues with my TB04 are tied to the chassis being so warped out of the package it was (for my purposes anyway) unusable. The front end was tipped up like .75mm and the rear was almost 1mm, plus it had a twist in it so it had an insane amount of tweek. I spent hours fixing mine with a heat gun and a bunch of C clamps. The carbon rein one was worse than the kit chassis. You might consider putting a straight edge on the bottom of yours and see if the parts where the suspension blocks mount are parallel with the rest of the chassis, and more importantly, each other. Then I'd work out fixing that. Plus it's free.

My advice is if you really want to be competitive against carbon cars, you need to buy one. Of course, that depends on how competitive your class is. I was right there locally in the ROAR 17.5 class with my TB03 last year, 60 grams overweight and everything.
Back in March I sold my TRF416WE to fund a 418. I had decided to skip the 417 altogether. Then arrived the mix reviews so I held off and held and used my XV01 Pro to race until the TB04 Pro II became available. During this time I also moved out to Las Vegas, where the only onroad action is a bi-monthly hobby town parking lot race.

I'm so tempted to spring for a TRF419, but then the pragmatic side kicks in and I say to myself that it's a waste of $ to spend on a car that you're racing in a parking lot. So I continue to hold off...for now lol
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Old 12-31-2014, 10:57 PM   #1043
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Back in March I sold my TRF416WE to fund a 418. I had decided to skip the 417 altogether. Then arrived the mix reviews so I held off and held and used my XV01 Pro to race until the TB04 Pro II became available. During this time I also moved out to Las Vegas, where the only onroad action is a bi-monthly hobby town parking lot race.

I'm so tempted to spring for a TRF419, but then the pragmatic side kicks in and I say to myself that it's a waste of $ to spend on a car that you're racing in a parking lot. So I continue to hold off...for now lol
If your racing a parking lot track. Tamiya blue/yellow or yellow/yellow are money on parking lot surfaces. Have the shocks stood more upright. vs laid down. Run 2 degrees of camber all around. And if there isn't a spec tire. Run 24's or 28's. Maybe 30's. Car should be very consistent and fast.
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Old 01-01-2015, 04:26 AM   #1044
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I see.

Most of my experience on carpet is from running a foam tire oval car. If you showed up at the track before the groove came in and the grip came up and the car was just money, you knew it was going to be a LONG weekend because once the grip came up it was going to do exactly what you describe and your life was going to be miserable. The car needs to be too tight when you unload and conditions are green.

In USGT I'd be inclined to run Yokomo pink and blue springs. They are class legal and softer than the HPI/Tamiya springs. If the car cases (bottoms out) before the tire develops enough grip to hook an edge and tip it, it almost saves you. Don't let it get too soft though!

I'd also consider gluing up the sidewall of the outside front tire from the wheel to halfway into the letters on the sidewall. Only that tire for now. When I ran on the Gravity carpet tires at IIC I had to glue both sides of the fronts for the same reason.

I'd also consider raising the roll center in the front by removing all the spacers under the suspension blocks, if you haven't done that already. If that is successful, and you need more, I'd add a half a mm under the front inner camber link.

In any case, post back what you learn. I'm interested to hear.
Thanks for all the feedback. I was worried about tweak but surprisingly my chassis is pretty straight with just a hair of twist in the back. I'll definately give some of those suggestions a shot.
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Old 01-01-2015, 09:36 AM   #1045
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Yea the twisted chassis thing is annoying. Once built you can put the car on a flat surface, loosen all the top braces, push down on the shock towers, then tighten the top braces up and everything will be straight.
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Old 01-05-2015, 05:58 PM   #1046
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Car keeps getting better and better. Rear end is nicely locked in now thru fast corners. More to try still, but here is my setup so far.

Oh and I am running all hard carbon suspension parts.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf WMH TB04 Set-up Sheet.pdf (126.5 KB, 170 views)
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Old 01-19-2015, 03:27 PM   #1047
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Anyone have issue with stock ring gear on tb04? I was helping a friend build it and it seems there is one spot on the gear that is too high regardless how you shim it... It just rotates smoothly until you hit that spot...My guess is the gear is warped?
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Old 01-19-2015, 03:41 PM   #1048
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Common I would guess, mine did the same, once broken in it will disappear.
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Old 01-20-2015, 08:53 AM   #1049
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Anyone have issue with stock ring gear on tb04? I was helping a friend build it and it seems there is one spot on the gear that is too high regardless how you shim it... It just rotates smoothly until you hit that spot...My guess is the gear is warped?
Run the 39t gears. They are round. If your a TCS racer, that's not legal, and I don't know what to tell you.
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Old 01-20-2015, 03:15 PM   #1050
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Good day to all.

New to RC. New to RCTech.

Maybe I missed it in this thread but does anyone have the "formula" for shimming the gears on the TB04 Pro 2?

It would be appreciated if somebody can help.
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