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Old 10-03-2014, 10:31 PM   #871
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A - A block in the front seems very interesting for stock setup. Does that make the car feel twitchy on turn in? Debating between pro ii and ta06r right now. Does anyone have experience with both?
I have both. You can test drive at Tamiya track some time

(but not tomorrow because it's going to be hot as hell and I ain't going )

On my TB04 pro II it calls for 1A blocks in the manual, but with DCJs and 44mm shafts I *had* to go to 1C blocks. Maybe because I have Alum cups on it and that's not a normal thing to do when using DCJs...?
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Old 10-03-2014, 10:51 PM   #872
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torq, I'm running 1A blocks in the front of my tb04 pro II as well as DCJ's. No need to change to 1C. I think its the alum cups

cplus, a racer at the track let me try those hudy pins but could't use it because there are no center holes in the chassis.
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Old 10-03-2014, 11:31 PM   #873
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A - A block in the front seems very interesting for stock setup. Does that make the car feel twitchy on turn in? Debating between pro ii and ta06r right now. Does anyone have experience with both?
Depends on what class your running. In 17.5 and 13.5 TA06R suffers from some drive train power loss due to the twin belt, and additional counter gear drive line set up. On these classes the TB04 II is more efficient, (yes even though it's shaft driven). The TA06 however does very well in mod class.
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Old 10-04-2014, 09:24 AM   #874
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If you are changing from A/A to C/C, you don't need to change to longer shafts. However if you changed from A/A to F/F which would be the widest, you may theoretically need to change to longer drive shafts
Thanks, Raman :-)
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Old 10-05-2014, 11:51 AM   #875
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Originally Posted by torg View Post
I have both. You can test drive at Tamiya track some time

(but not tomorrow because it's going to be hot as hell and I ain't going )

On my TB04 pro II it calls for 1A blocks in the manual, but with DCJs and 44mm shafts I *had* to go to 1C blocks. Maybe because I have Alum cups on it and that's not a normal thing to do when using DCJs...?
Will do!
I'm currently seeking a replacement for my ta05v2 for next next season because part support will become harder and harder. I'll let you try my ta05 too. It's a pretty proven setup and just needs to be lightened as of this point.
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Old 10-06-2014, 01:27 PM   #876
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Originally Posted by torg View Post
I have both. You can test drive at Tamiya track some time

(but not tomorrow because it's going to be hot as hell and I ain't going )

On my TB04 pro II it calls for 1A blocks in the manual, but with DCJs and 44mm shafts I *had* to go to 1C blocks. Maybe because I have Alum cups on it and that's not a normal thing to do when using DCJs...?
I run DCJ with front spool that has the steel outdrives and still use the 1A blocks.
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Old 10-06-2014, 01:36 PM   #877
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Depends on what class your running. In 17.5 and 13.5 TA06R suffers from some drive train power loss due to the twin belt, and additional counter gear drive line set up. On these classes the TB04 II is more efficient, (yes even though it's shaft driven). The TA06 however does very well in mod class.
well
there was a guy in japan was running TA06 in GT1 and Gt2 and he won
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Old 10-06-2014, 01:51 PM   #878
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well
there was a guy in japan was running TA06 in GT1 and Gt2 and he won
At the Tamiya World Championship in Japan, each chassis has a different FDR limit.
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Old 10-06-2014, 02:38 PM   #879
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At the Tamiya World Championship in Japan, each chassis has a different FDR limit.
true, the gearing limit makes drive line efficiency secondary in terms of competitiveness. In those conditions I think the balance of ta06 shines through. I think I'll go with the TA06R
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Old 10-09-2014, 10:20 PM   #880
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Hey guys, I own a tbo4 pro 2 that I'm learning how to race at my local track. I was just wondering which parts you guys have broken and what I should order ahead of time. My lhs doesn't stock anything for my car.
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Old 10-09-2014, 11:09 PM   #881
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Hey guys, I own a tbo4 pro 2 that I'm learning how to race at my local track. I was just wondering which parts you guys have broken and what I should order ahead of time. My lhs doesn't stock anything for my car.
C hubs and spindle carriers. Also when you break those part you lose the spindle carrier bushings. Typically what breaks on Tamiya cars!
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Old 10-10-2014, 12:04 AM   #882
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...which parts you guys have broken...
On my son's Pro II, the front shock's lower ball mount (the one that goes into the a-arms) loosens and has stripped the threads from the a-arm. The ball won't stay in place for more than half a lap. Since he's a bit rough on the car, I swapped to aluminum arms in hopes of avoiding this in the future. If this happened to me, I'd probably get an extra set of original a-arms and practice driving more.

Actually, the plastic tree-parts aren't that expensive--why not just get all the major ones?
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Old 10-10-2014, 12:07 AM   #883
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I haven't broken anything om this car, although I haven't crash much with it
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Old 10-10-2014, 12:09 AM   #884
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C hubs and spindle carriers. Also when you break those part you lose the spindle carrier bushings. Typically what breaks on Tamiya cars!
So just the C hubs? Should I get aluminum ones or just spare plastic? any other items?
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Old 10-10-2014, 12:16 AM   #885
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The stock tb04 hubs are made from regular, flexible plastic and won't break often. If your going to buy spares, get the trf418 c hubs, which is the same shape except molded from carbon reinforced plastic. They are more brittle but stiffer, giving more tuning options
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