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Old 07-11-2014, 03:36 AM   #706
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just got mine already for $245 :P
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Old 07-11-2014, 03:51 AM   #707
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Originally Posted by CraigMBA View Post
Before you run it, can you put a straigh edge on it and see if it's straight? My kit one was impossibly warped.

And, it appears Tamiya is listening....new for august..

 54601  TB-04 Aluminum High-Geared Motor Adapter
They are all warped. The carbon reinforced version is worse than the original plastic chassis.
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Old 07-11-2014, 05:30 AM   #708
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Any tips for setting up a TB04 Pro for USGT racing?
I have the motor mount and started with a 50 pinion but it is too hot so I need to buy some more gears to go to a higher ratio (closer to 4) from there. Has anyone made up a chart that shows which gear combinations fit and actually mesh?

I also noticed a 200mm max width in the rules. Are people running that or just using 190?

Any tips on carpet setup?

Sway bars? Going without at this time to simplify setup but I think I can cobble together a set from old TRF 417 parts if needed.

My rear diff stripped so I glued it with JB Weld and put it in the front until I can get a proper spool, though the glued diff seems to be holding up well. Then put the front diff in rear with the option steel gears in it.
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Old 07-11-2014, 07:03 AM   #709
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racing4evo, I must be lucky, the cf reinforced chassis that came with my tb04 pro v2 is perfectly flat, if I put it on a piece of glass is doesn't rock at all. The way you install the chassis stiffeners is very important though, you should push the chassis against a hard flat surface then screw it on, doing half turns towards the end to evenly tighten the chassis.

ic-racer, what motor are you running? I have the hw xerun v10 21.5t in mine, geared at 3.51 (52/73), motor timing 40deg and only gets slightly warm after 6 minutes (although it is winter). I haven't seen any gear charts for this car yet.
How did you strip the diff? Was this using a 21.5t motor?
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Old 07-11-2014, 07:10 AM   #710
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racing4evo, I must be lucky, the cf reinforced chassis that came with my tb04 pro v2 is perfectly flat, if I put it on a piece of glass is doesn't rock at all. The way you install the chassis stiffeners is very important though, you should push the chassis against a hard flat surface then screw it on, doing half turns towards the end to evenly tighten the chassis.

ic-racer, what motor are you running? I have the hw xerun v10 21.5t in mine, geared at 3.51 (52/73), motor timing 40deg and only gets slightly warm after 6 minutes (although it is winter). I haven't seen any gear charts for this car yet.
How did you strip the diff? Was this using a 21.5t motor?
I am running 100% stock gearing. Temp hit 70 after 15-20min. Should I reduce the pinion or increase the pinion to make it run cooler. Thanks
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Old 07-11-2014, 07:23 AM   #711
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I am running 100% stock gearing. Temp hit 70 after 15-20min. Should I reduce the pinion or increase the pinion to make it run cooler. Thanks
What motor are you using? 70 fahreinheit or celcius? 15-20 minutes is a long time to run an ep car, considering most races are 6-8 minutes long

Last edited by TB03Racer09; 07-11-2014 at 07:35 AM.
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Old 07-11-2014, 08:07 AM   #712
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ic-racer, what motor are you running? I have the hw xerun v10 21.5t in mine, geared at 3.51 (52/73), motor timing 40deg and only gets slightly warm after 6 minutes (although it is winter). I haven't seen any gear charts for this car yet.
How did you strip the diff? Was this using a 21.5t motor?
Motor is fixed timing (22 deg I was told on the HobbyWing thread) HobbyWing 21.5 XERUN & Justock ESC. I bought the combo, not realizing the endbell was fixed. I my need to upgrade to the V10 at some point.
I was just testing with 4.5 FDR and got 141F temp on my driveway track after about 10 min. With 3.6 FDR I got 160F after just a few minutes. I'm short on Spur Gears at this time to try anything in between. I also need to get a motor fan. The driveway track requires heavy, near locked up, breaking, and I think that is what is heating up the motor. The carpet track we race on can be navigated with a 21.5 just using some drag brake, so I'm expecting temps to be lower at the track.

This car is 'mutipurpose' I share with my son. I got some drift tires for him and I think that when drifting, when the rear hits the bumps at the expansion joints in the driveway, the diff takes a beating.

Last edited by ic-racer; 07-11-2014 at 08:19 AM.
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Old 07-11-2014, 08:46 AM   #713
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Originally Posted by ic-racer View Post
Motor is fixed timing (22 deg I was told on the HobbyWing thread) HobbyWing 21.5 XERUN & Justock ESC. I bought the combo, not realizing the endbell was fixed. I my need to upgrade to the V10 at some point.
I was just testing with 4.5 FDR and got 141F temp on my driveway track after about 10 min. With 3.6 FDR I got 160F after just a few minutes. I'm short on Spur Gears at this time to try anything in between. I also need to get a motor fan. The driveway track requires heavy, near locked up, breaking, and I think that is what is heating up the motor. The carpet track we race on can be navigated with a 21.5 just using some drag brake, so I'm expecting temps to be lower at the track.

This car is 'mutipurpose' I share with my son. I got some drift tires for him and I think that when drifting, when the rear hits the bumps at the expansion joints in the driveway, the diff takes a beating.
I cannot give you an exact fdr since there is too many variables, but your on the right track.Most people would tell you to gear somewhere in the lower 3's but they are normally running for only the duration of a race at a time (6-8min).

Since you said the car is being used for both drifting and track driving, it may be hard to find an fdr that is optimal for both. I think you should start at 4.25fdr and start going lower until temps dont go over 160 after a normal length run. Always better for your electronics to be undergeared then over geared. Good luck
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Old 07-11-2014, 09:04 AM   #714
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What motor are you using? 70 fahreinheit or celcius? 15-20 minutes is a long time to run an ep car, considering most races are 6-8 minutes long
Thanks for your kind reply. I am not racing. Just bashing. Hobbywing justock with 10.5t sensor hobby wing brushless motor. 70 is C. I installed a yeah racing tornado fan but it is almost useless as I get the same result. I set cut off at 75 degree c in my MT4.. Bashing is over around 20-25 mins normally. Will reduce the pinion helps improve run time. Which pinion should I buy. My tb04 non pro is 100% stock. Today I just realise my plastic motor mount is compressed badly until the spur gear rubs the motor now. Time to upgrade to Alu motor mount.
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Old 07-11-2014, 10:13 AM   #715
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Originally Posted by Racing4Evo View Post
They are all warped. The carbon reinforced version is worse than the original plastic chassis.
When I got home from the reedy race, I put a straightedge on mine, and cut the car up to dissuade me from screwing around with it any more. It had .3mm on one end and .5mm the other end, bent like a banana.

Thanks Peter.
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Old 07-11-2014, 12:27 PM   #716
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This help?

http://www.rctech.net/forum/members/...20-pinion1.jpg

http://www.rctech.net/forum/members/...21-pinion2.jpg

Tam 51109 or TAM 51110 for 17 tooth pinion

TAM 51255 39 tooth for gdiff or TAM 51256 39 tooth for balldiff
Quote:
Originally Posted by TB03Racer09 View Post
#54592 is the number for the tb04 specific spool, that has 40t ring gear

If your going to change the gear to 39t, might as well get the tb03 spool diff and use shims to make up the space. You can purchase the tb03 gears seperately too #51255

You can achieve an fdr of 2.29 by using #51109 (17t/39t), you will have to remove the lip on the bevel gear so you can fit the e-clip
Thank you! This helps, and it put all the info in one place!

Last question, i was only planning on getting the TAM 51255 39 tooth for gdiff kit, is it worth going lower? i'm planning on running the kit in 17.5 or VTA(21.5)
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Old 07-11-2014, 12:44 PM   #717
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damn, the Tamiya spool 54592 is not available anywhere (at least i can't seem to find it)
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Last edited by Cadman1981; 07-11-2014 at 01:08 PM.
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Old 07-11-2014, 03:17 PM   #718
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Warped chassis sounds like my TA05 chassis. I just compensated with different shock lengths at each corner. Then carefully setting spring preload and droop. It was good enough to win a few TCS races in the past. I'm sure you can work with it on this car.
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Old 07-11-2014, 07:35 PM   #719
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spyder_696, hobbywing recommends a fdr of 5-6.5 with your exact setup, 6.6 should run cool then. You could try a 23t or 24t pinion but I think you should try take a 5 minute break every 12 minutes running, its good for your electronics. I've found the weather can also heavily impact temperature.

High temperatures can also be caused by drag in the drivetrain which is caused by: pinion and spur too close together, poorly shimmed diffs/bevel gear/milter gears, any significant amount of binding anywhere. Your spur rubbing on the motor is a contributing factor to the heat, as it is introducing more drag into the drivetrain.

Try this. loosen the set screw on the pinion, turn the spur by hand. If there is a lot of resistance, your mesh is to tight. Then remove the pinion all together, push the car on the floor. Listen for any clicking, ticking or any form of binding.


Cadman1981, If you want an fdr under 3.5, you will need to lower the internal drive ration with larger bevel gear and/or smaller ring gears (like the 39t). See what fdr people are running at your track for those 2 classes and aim for that
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Old 07-11-2014, 07:54 PM   #720
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Installed antenna-less receiver and changes the position of the esc
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