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Old 09-20-2013, 01:23 PM   #166
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too early? timing is just right. If you cant hit the correct FDR.. i dont care if Masami is driving the car, your lap times will suffer.



yah but that still doesnt leave it as a viable option for GT2 class participants here in the U.S.
tub chassis ? id get the ta05v2 gold edition then throw a gear diff in the rear
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Old 09-20-2013, 02:46 PM   #167
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It probably was only designed to be run in TGP. People still compete with brushed motors there.
Good point. The instruction manual describes how to put in the motor, then has a separate section for brushless motors, like its unusual or not common or something.....
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Old 09-29-2013, 06:49 PM   #168
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Anyone had a chance to run the car yet?
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Old 09-29-2013, 09:28 PM   #169
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Mine is still in the box. I ordered some hop ups including the front one-way and aluminum motor spacers, and a few spares such as ring gears and gaskets. Those are almost here. I am waiting for the steel diff gears, steel cross pins, aluminum steering parts, and carbon reinforced C-hubs to come available before I start the build.

I'm not sure what the designer was trying to accomplish with the center gearbox and motor plate. As it stands today, the motor has to be spaced outwards with those C-shaped spacers to make a place for the pinion gear. Those spacers limit what can be done with the gearing. On the other hand, the motor plate and motor plate support post are tucked close to the center stiffening ribs in the tub, pretty much out of the way of any electronics.

I can't help thinking this design would have been better if the motor plate and spur bearing feature in the center gearbox molding had swapped positions. That is, place the plastic spur bearing feature towards the middle of the chassis tub and install the motor plate more outboard. I think the motor would still end up in the roughly the same position relative to the main tub, but the space for pinions would be wide open. Revised T1, T2, T4, and T9 parts along with a new hole in the chassis tub would fix the problem, I think. T5 and T7 wouldn't even be needed anymore.

So, my game plan is to wait for the other hop ups to be released, build it, throw a 13.5T or 10.5T in it, and enjoy it in the street. I think it would be a better kit for VTA and 17.5T racing with a revised "T" parts tree and a slightly revised chassis tub. Those changes would open the door to lower gearing and still allow for the higher gearing already in the kit.
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Old 09-29-2013, 10:07 PM   #170
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I'm slowly building the components while waiting for hop up parts. I've finished prepping the shock stays, I'm done with all the ball cups + turnbuckle assemblies, next week I'll assemble the shocks. When the steel diff gears and cross pin arrives, I'll build the diffs as well. No rush really as this will be my 2014 car. Still busy with my belt drive kits.

What's the part number for the fibre reinforced 6-degrees C-Hub? I'll put that on my list as well.
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Old 09-29-2013, 10:10 PM   #171
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The carbon reinforced C-hubs are 54546.
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Old 09-29-2013, 10:11 PM   #172
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The carbon reinforced C-hubs are 54546.
Thanks bro.
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Old 10-01-2013, 12:51 AM   #173
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If Tamiya released a "high speed gear set", consisting of the 2 bevels in the center gearbox (instead one with more teeth and the other with less so they still fit in the same housing but lower the internal gear ratio) then we can easily get 3.0 fdr
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Old 10-01-2013, 01:34 AM   #174
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Yeah that's a good solution. Make it steel as well for durability.
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Old 10-01-2013, 11:11 AM   #175
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If Tamiya released a "high speed gear set", consisting of the 2 bevels in the center gearbox (instead one with more teeth and the other with less so they still fit in the same housing but lower the internal gear ratio) then we can easily get 3.0 fdr
that makes too much sense. Tamiya would probably sell a TB-04R with new parts instead of new gears just to squeeze more money out of your wallet.
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Old 10-01-2013, 11:32 AM   #176
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that makes too much sense. Tamiya would probably sell a TB-04R with new parts instead of new gears just to squeeze more money out of your wallet.
yup, too much sense
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Old 10-01-2013, 11:48 AM   #177
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Actually in my opinion the easier answer would be to retool the 502x gear set (a 17/39 combo). That would put it at a 2.29.

It might even only require a new center insert for the main ring gear.

I was able to get down to 3.46 with a Reedy motor (which is too low for that motor anyways) with a 72/52. A tooth less on a D3.5 as the hole radius must be slightly smaller allowing the pinion to hit the motor screws with the brass sleeve.

Option C would be to change the motor mount to a Schumacher style with a motor clamp that slides. This could actually be done with two aluminum pieces. The clamp and another machined aluminum piece that uses the existing motor mount screws mounting from motor side and then replaces the plastic front motor mount.

*shrug* I will see after this weekends shakedown if it's worth pursuing making one of these solutions work.

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Old 10-01-2013, 12:47 PM   #178
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Actually in my opinion the easier answer would be to retool the 502x gear set (a 17/39 combo). That would put it at a 2.29.

It might even only require a new center insert for the main ring gear.

I was able to get down to 3.46 with a Reedy motor (which is too low for that motor anyways) with a 72/52. A tooth less on a D3.5 as the hole radius must be slightly smaller allowing the pinion to hit the motor screws with the brass sleeve.

Option C would be to change the motor mount to a Schumacher style with a motor clamp that slides. This could actually be done with two aluminum pieces. The clamp and another machined aluminum piece that uses the existing motor mount screws mounting from motor side and then replaces the plastic front motor mount.

*shrug* I will see after this weekends shakedown if it's worth pursuing making one of these solutions work.

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What, 64P, which brand can you get it?
What biggest Spur gear could afford it?

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Old 10-01-2013, 08:49 PM   #179
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If I can hit 4.0fdr without anything other than a pinion and spur (48pitch), I'll be happy
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Old 10-01-2013, 09:24 PM   #180
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If I can hit 4.0fdr without anything other than a pinion and spur (48pitch), I'll be happy
Id like 3.4 with 64P
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