First Motor
08-04-2013, 06:29 AM
#1
First Motor
I was Looking at HPI Flux PRO competitions 5t-5.5t. Are they worth it or are there better motors than those? and can someone explain "Turns" a little better?
08-04-2013, 09:58 AM
#4
Any other suggestions for a street bashing car? I live on an Island so there's no clubs or hobby stores or anyone else that I know of that is into these cars. is there a thread anyone knows of that give general info of motors? What brand is better in what field, Which is ones have known issues, better in one way than another. And what about ESCs.
08-04-2013, 11:40 AM
#6
08-04-2013, 12:14 PM
#8
....my venture into Brushless motors combined with a capable esc for racing was a mismatch. To make a long story short Hobbywing Motor/Esc combos will not dissapoint you-it sounds like you're wanting to go ballistic with a 5.5 hpi motor. I'd suggest to you the 17.5 turn because it sounds as if the car/truck may break first and you may have to order spare (car parts) . Good luck with your choice.
08-04-2013, 01:20 PM
#9
Hopefully this should be post number 10 and I should be able to post pics now! (YAY!) So It is stock, I have the wrong battery size for it (3s lipos), I got the car from my brother, While away in Iraq. A friend flies helis and gave me two new lipos with Dean's on them, found out it can only take 2s lipos. So being the only one on my small island with a R/C car there's no big help. So thru research I've found out it's a S2 Flux Mustang GT-R Body RTR. So instead of going (3.5t original plan) 5.5t, I should go with a 17.5t? Will that still go fast? I really want to go 100+ but then I'd have no car left after the first wreck so I should figure out how to drive it first. So will a 17.5t push it 50+. This will be a street basher anyways so I do expect it to break as soon as i put the motor and ESC in, in a catastrophic way... Just saying that should there be upgrades that I should do that you think will break first so i can go ahead and order parts.
08-04-2013, 03:03 PM
#10
In Theory.... If I took a 3.5t and stuck twin (3s) lipos on a HPI S2 chassis. besides total death of the car. How fast do you think it would go?
08-04-2013, 04:01 PM
#11
Theoretically, 110mph+. Assumptions here are 5.5T 7000kv motor, 22V and an FDR of 10.
The trouble here is, there is no low wind motor that will take 6S and you have a max rpm of 150K which means bearings and magnets exploding in the motor.
What it is that you are actually wanting to achieve with your car, knowing what you want to do, makes it easier to point you in the right direction when buying gear.
08-04-2013, 08:31 PM
#13
3s and anything less than xx.5 is a recipe for TOAST
3s is 50% more power than most cars are designed for.
17.5 is a stock motor.
So if you use a 3s and a 5.5t and don't change gearing and several other things you are just asking for trouble. If you have to use the 3s then get a 10.5-13.5, not quite as bad... still need to regear and check for overheating. Don't worry about the timing until you get some experience.
If all you want is speed and you don;t mind replacing burned up stuff then yea, go for it.
3s is 50% more power than most cars are designed for.
17.5 is a stock motor.
So if you use a 3s and a 5.5t and don't change gearing and several other things you are just asking for trouble. If you have to use the 3s then get a 10.5-13.5, not quite as bad... still need to regear and check for overheating. Don't worry about the timing until you get some experience.
If all you want is speed and you don;t mind replacing burned up stuff then yea, go for it.
08-05-2013, 04:22 AM
#15
Tech Regular
This.
Driving a RC car at 40mph isn't the same as driving a real car at 40mph, especially if you've never driven or have little experience with RC.
Yes, 40mph is 40mph no matter what, but controlling a car at 40mph is much easier than an RC at 40mph, unless you're just going in a straight line.
With my first ever "real" RC car (Sprint 2 Flux) the first thing I did was buy a Castle Link kit and turn the power in the stock Flux system down to 70% max output so I could control the car. Eventually I worked my way up, but even now I still keep it at about 85-90% max output because it gets erratic near top speed, plus you really need a BIG open area that's really flat to utilize those speeds for bashing.
The (stock) steering and suspension is loose on the S2 chassis and are easily overpowered IMO. If you're going to throw that much power at it, I'd highly recommend doing the mods mentioned in the Sprint 2 thread.
They are fun for sure, but I don't think I'd ever need or use that much speed/power unless I was drag racing or trying to see how fast I could destroy the car.
Driving a RC car at 40mph isn't the same as driving a real car at 40mph, especially if you've never driven or have little experience with RC.
Yes, 40mph is 40mph no matter what, but controlling a car at 40mph is much easier than an RC at 40mph, unless you're just going in a straight line.
With my first ever "real" RC car (Sprint 2 Flux) the first thing I did was buy a Castle Link kit and turn the power in the stock Flux system down to 70% max output so I could control the car. Eventually I worked my way up, but even now I still keep it at about 85-90% max output because it gets erratic near top speed, plus you really need a BIG open area that's really flat to utilize those speeds for bashing.
The (stock) steering and suspension is loose on the S2 chassis and are easily overpowered IMO. If you're going to throw that much power at it, I'd highly recommend doing the mods mentioned in the Sprint 2 thread.
They are fun for sure, but I don't think I'd ever need or use that much speed/power unless I was drag racing or trying to see how fast I could destroy the car.