T.O.P. Racing Rebel F1 (R-F01)
#76
Tech Regular
iTrader: (6)
Hi,
Just posted some Rebel F1 setups from the last two major events here in Victoria Australia. You can find them at:
http://www.petitrc.com/reglages/top/...PRebelF01.html
Just posted some Rebel F1 setups from the last two major events here in Victoria Australia. You can find them at:
http://www.petitrc.com/reglages/top/...PRebelF01.html
#77
TC Shock
Mark - has the big shock proved itself on asphalt? I see you run an ORCA, can you share your punch and pwm settings for asphalt? I think mine are 2/32.
Tom D.
Tom D.
#78
The car stares at me in the shop. Haven't had much time to run it. Full TC shock was much better on asphalt. More flexibility in piston sizing and dampening rate.
For the ESC
32k
10 punch
No drag brake
#79
T.O.P. F1
Finishing up installing exotek IFS on the TOP F1. All that's left is shimming for the front wing. Had to shim out the bottom mounting point on the tubes. You will need to add a front servo mount (drill one hole if you use exotek servo mount).
Getting ready for Some F1 asphalt to start up again...
Getting ready for Some F1 asphalt to start up again...
#80
Tech Master
iTrader: (47)
Finishing up installing exotek IFS on the TOP F1. All that's left is shimming for the front wing. Had to shim out the bottom mounting point on the tubes. You will need to add a front servo mount (drill one hole if you use exotek servo mount).
Getting ready for Some F1 asphalt to start up again...
Getting ready for Some F1 asphalt to start up again...
#81
TOP F1
Hey Scott,
LOL... Yes and No, the M3x10 set screws just hit the edge of my chassis so I used a 3m flat head screw (up from the bottom of the arms) looks cool plenty of contact with my chassis. Now I can use my Hudy 2mm ball wrench to get that 1mm droop. I think the new Exotek upper arms will give you more clearance on the the tubes??? Just a guess, they look to have more of a tapper?
TomD
LOL... Yes and No, the M3x10 set screws just hit the edge of my chassis so I used a 3m flat head screw (up from the bottom of the arms) looks cool plenty of contact with my chassis. Now I can use my Hudy 2mm ball wrench to get that 1mm droop. I think the new Exotek upper arms will give you more clearance on the the tubes??? Just a guess, they look to have more of a tapper?
TomD
#82
Tech Adept
Is it possible to get 180mm track width with the original front end if you use rubber tires?
Thanks in advance!
Thanks in advance!
#83
TOP F1
Possible with Exotec wheels, and shims? However, better front end options are out there.
#85
This car is rather rare and fairly expensive to build to the common front end spec used in the US for rubber tire racing. If there aren't many people running the car, especially indoors during the carpet season, there won't be a lot of traffic in the thread - that's all.
#87
Tech Regular
iTrader: (6)
I've been running the Rebel for over a year now with great success and using the standard front end of the car. I have run both F103 and F104 tires of varying compounds and found the car to be good.
There are a few things I would recommend to make the car more reliable and easier to tune:
Replace the front camber link turnbuckles with titanium items. The standard steel ones bend easily.
The diff can be hard to get right. You can use Tamiya conical washers like found in the F104 diff between the plastic nut and the alloy part that pushes on the bearing.
You can replace the standard plastic nut in the diff with an associated offroad front wheel nut. I can't remember the exact car it came from atm. This nut does require you to use tweezers to do up and un do as a wheel wrench does not fit. The advantage with this nut is it tends not to undo regardless of temperature etc.
Running F104 tires means a lot of spacers required to get the ride heights right. In the rear you should look to change the screws for the axle carriers to the longer cap head screws that are available from TOP. You also need to change the front screws to longer versions.
There are a few things I would recommend to make the car more reliable and easier to tune:
Replace the front camber link turnbuckles with titanium items. The standard steel ones bend easily.
The diff can be hard to get right. You can use Tamiya conical washers like found in the F104 diff between the plastic nut and the alloy part that pushes on the bearing.
You can replace the standard plastic nut in the diff with an associated offroad front wheel nut. I can't remember the exact car it came from atm. This nut does require you to use tweezers to do up and un do as a wheel wrench does not fit. The advantage with this nut is it tends not to undo regardless of temperature etc.
Running F104 tires means a lot of spacers required to get the ride heights right. In the rear you should look to change the screws for the axle carriers to the longer cap head screws that are available from TOP. You also need to change the front screws to longer versions.
#88
Hi...is it possible to post pictures of the Top rebel f1 with the new exotek ifs? Thanks
#89
#90
T.O.P. F1 w/IFS
Ran the first race on asphalt with Exotek IFS. If you have a TOP F1 I highly recommend this front end. It works!!!
I focused my adjustments on balancing my droop front to rear /rear to front. Had some good results and bad.
What I do like about this mod is how easy it is to adjust, and the how the car responds. Predictability with more corner grip, increased speed, entry, and corner exit.
note to self; avoid the water coming up through the cracks in asphalt.
I focused my adjustments on balancing my droop front to rear /rear to front. Had some good results and bad.
What I do like about this mod is how easy it is to adjust, and the how the car responds. Predictability with more corner grip, increased speed, entry, and corner exit.
note to self; avoid the water coming up through the cracks in asphalt.