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Old 04-11-2014, 04:03 AM   #106
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Does anyone know the dimensions of the flange bearings used in the axle? I don't have verniers

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Old 05-11-2014, 09:11 PM   #107
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Can anyone help me get some high speed steering out of the YRF001?

I'm running a fairly standard kit setup, stock servo position, narrow front end, (was the same with wide)
I have all the rear grip in the world with R1 rears, using R1/S1/S2 or pit medium fronts I just can't make it change direction at high speed and have to slow a lot throughout the corner to make the car turn, it also pushes hard the second I get on the throttle.

I have a very smooth diff which I've tried extra loose and a bit tighter which doesn't make a difference to the steering issue.

So far I have mostly just tried 0/0.5/1/1.5 and 2deg front neg camber which doesn't help either.

Any assistance is much appreciated.
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Old 05-11-2014, 11:35 PM   #108
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I am still playing around with setups but I am close,

What helped me for the ACT titles was running the kingpin front end with the 3 racing front wing. This will help lots with the push issues. Also the mid servo mount also helps with the high speed corners as well.

I am sure the push issue with the Yokomo is due to the excessive Ackerman steering angles.

I Also have started using the Tamiya Aluminium Roll Damper #54413 with 50K-80K oil, I have been overseas for a few weeks and have only had a chance to try it once thus far, but was an instant improvement.

Ill have a better chance to play around with it some more next week for the NSW state titles.

Beth.
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Old 05-12-2014, 01:12 AM   #109
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Glad to hear the kingpin setup is working for you. I tried it and the actual kingpin was rubbing the inside of the foam rim. I followed the instructions carefully, double checked everything, and still was causing problems. The only thing I could do was grind away some material from the inside of the rim. It worked, but the handling wasn't there. I reverted back to the carbon arms.

If you're suffering from push, I would suggest changing the front roll centre. The stock front suspension setup has a low roll centre which provides low front end grip. If you look at Masami Hiroska's setup on Petit RC you'll see he's switched around the outside spacers. He obviously took out the lower black insert spacer, and flipped the ball end around, then placed a 2.5 mm spacer on top of the steering block. I've dons this with my car, but haven't tested it yet. . In theory, if you raise the outer most link you will raise the roll centre which will generate more lateral grip on that end of the car.

But, some other ideas for helping your push would be increasing your front camber, pod droop to 1.0,1.5 mm, caster, shock oil, shock angle. What's your settings so far?

Jedx - make sure the front steering block grub screw securing the kingpin is nice and tight. I've driven my car when they were loose and the car had a lot of push.

I would look at narrowing your front width this will give you more later grip. A narrower front track width will offer better traction.

Change your front roll centre.
Increase your camber.
Change you castor to 4.6 degrees.
Change your shock oil to 70-100 wt. assuming you have 50 wt already
change your side damper oil to 70-100 wt. assuming you have 50 wt
If you're feeling adventurous try using the different suspension links. The "other" links are meant to make the car transition faster, give it a try. But make the above changes first and see what they do for you.

Remember make one change at a time and test it out on the track.

Last edited by EDWARD2003; 08-10-2014 at 08:24 PM.
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Old 05-12-2014, 07:29 AM   #110
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Thanks for your help Beth and Edward,

I've got 2 weeks to make some changes, then Friday testing at SMA. Fingers crossed I don't give up too much rear grip, but gain the steering I want.

I'll let you know how I go.
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Old 05-14-2014, 09:10 PM   #111
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Jedx - Have you properly balanced the chassis left to right yet?

Make sure it's ''race ready'' when you balance the chassis left to right.

edit - I too had to add 12-15 grams on the receiver side.

Last edited by EDWARD2003; 05-14-2014 at 10:38 PM.
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Old 05-14-2014, 10:14 PM   #112
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jedx View Post
Thanks for your help Beth and Edward,

I've got 2 weeks to make some changes, then Friday testing at SMA. Fingers crossed I don't give up too much rear grip, but gain the steering I want.

I'll let you know how I go.
Rear grip usually isn't an issue at SMA these days,

For Tyres the Pit Medium fronts will be the way to go, doesn't really matter if your running 103 or 104 tyres, for the rear in the morning the Pit Softs will be the way to go and switching to Ride R1's once the heat comes up. If it stays overcast Pit hard or F103 softs on the rear may work still.

I can see me running 80K or 100K oil in the side damper.

The pace will be hot and I can see the 18 second lap time being broken for sure...

Only a week to go, I am looking forward to it even though SMA is a track I usually don't go well at..



EDIT: yes good point about the weight as well I have to run 15G attached to my receiver to get the balance correct as the ESC is just that little bit heavier.
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Old 05-14-2014, 10:42 PM   #113
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"I can see me running 80K or 100K oil in the side damper."

Wow! That's heavy side dampening

I don't run rubber tires on my F1, but that seems excessive. Are you really having troubles getting the front end to steer?
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Old 05-14-2014, 11:17 PM   #114
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That's with the Tamiya Aluminium Roll Damper #54413
Associated 60K weight feels like 40Wt oil in the kit roll damper,

The Tamiya one is just stays more consistent and is much faster to change the oil, it does make a difference, I recommend the $10 upgrade

Beth.
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Old 05-14-2014, 11:53 PM   #115
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Cool,could you post a picture of the installed roll damper?

Any modification made to install it?
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Old 05-15-2014, 02:42 AM   #116
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easy install, you just use Yokomo or associated ball cup ends cut down a few mm,
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Old 05-18-2014, 08:22 AM   #117
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Over the weekend I had a club race with my YRF.

Lets just say it was a real pain trying to figure out why my YRF was pushing like a dump truck. The first two qualifiers were brutal, so bad in fact, I pulled my car off. I ended up qualifying way back in the pack. My fastest lap was a 12.645, which was 0.600 seconds off the leader.

I sat down and wrenched the heck out of my car.

What settings helped.

- running 50 wt oil in the side damper (thinner oil takes away traction from the rear) heavier oil increase rear traction i.e 100 wt or heavier
- running 50 wt oil in the pitching damper (good for tight twisty track) if you have a wide open and flowing track I would suggest 70-100 wt.
-softer side spring (I went from associated blue to associated silver)
-1.2 to 1.5 pod droop

What really cured my dump truck problem.

The stock front carbon fibre suspension arms have an incredible amount of droop (up travel). This in turn causes the YRF to have massive push. The kit grub screw settings generates approximately 3-4 mm of droop. This is way to much droop to which I think is causing the car to push like a dump truck. I ended up reducing the drop down to 0.5-1.0mm ( I don't know exactly how much drop I currently have, I'll check tomorrow) and the car worked much, much, much better. You're going to have to tinker around with the lower 6 grub screws to achieve the droop I mentioned above.

I also added 30 grams of lead weight to help keep the front wheels planted.

Last but not least I changed the camber from - 2.0 to -0.5.

Lowered the ride height from 4.6 mm front and rear to 3.6 front and rear.


So, I did all these changes before the final main. Crazy, eh! But, I knew I had to do something drastic to be competitive in the main. To be honest, I was unsure as to whether the settings I changed around would even help.

Race time!

The car was dialled out on the track, it was doing exactly what I wanted it to do in the corners. I ended up from the back of the pack to the lead in less than 5 laps. Managed to lap second place by one lap and third place by three laps. I ended up with the second fastest lap of a 11.881!

There you have it.
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Old 05-20-2014, 09:08 PM   #118
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If your YRF is pushing (understeer) in the corners, I would suggest changing the front droop (uptravel) settings. The lower outer 4 grub screws should be raised up by the 0.5 or 1.0 mm increments. Test it out on the track. The middle two grub screws should be lowered by the same amount. You might have to tinker around with the grub screws to find a decent amount of droop. I would try aiming for 1.0 of droop. Droop is easy to measure, simply measure the YRF's ride height and then lift the suspension up until uptravel stops. I'll post a video on how I measure up travel.

So, currently my car's setup is 1.0 mm in the front and 1.5 mm in the rear. Droop is a powerful tuning option. Try adjusting this setting first if you're having problems with push (understeer)
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Old 06-11-2014, 07:56 PM   #119
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Harro?
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Old 06-11-2014, 08:16 PM   #120
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Nope nothing is happing on the YRF-001 front...

Finished 3rd at our State titles,
Car was good all weekend, got lucky a little, the cold/hot weather played havoc with tyre choice, but everyone was in the same boat.

Some you tube here of the last final,

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r4eSC4qA9sk

Beth.
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