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Old 01-27-2014, 12:40 AM   #61
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Sorry, I know it's the grub screw length. So, how much total up travel do you have?

In the month of February, I'll be meeting one of Yokomo's factory drivers. If you like I can pick his brain for any rubber tire setups.

I'm currently running on foams and this car is on rails. Ridiculously fast and easy to drive. Love this car.
its about 1mm in total up travel, so not a lot. I find its just more stable out of corners if its pushing a little on exit.
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Old 01-27-2014, 09:57 AM   #62
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I found the ceramic bearings and the Team Associated ball bearings flanged on ebay. Do you have any sites where I can order up some parts? Our group here in Montreal Canada is slowly getting into the rc F1 craze and I really want to build a competitive F1. Thanks for the help!
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Old 01-27-2014, 01:45 PM   #63
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I usually just order from AMain or rcmarket

http://www.amainhobbies.com/index.ph...mo-Formula-001

AMain carry most of the F1 spares, and stock ceramic bearings

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...d-Ball-Bearing

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ntial-Balls-12

also pick up some TQ 16 gauge wire while your at it

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...e-Wire-Black-3

(I should get commission for this)

Beth..
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Old 01-27-2014, 04:17 PM   #64
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Much Appreciated!
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Old 02-03-2014, 11:37 PM   #65
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Default YRF001N assembly help - front end

After receiving the updated front bulkhead and installing it, I'm scratching my head about the grub screws that adjust ride height (shown in attached photo.) Are the revised instructions (also shown) correct to have 5.5mm of the screw coming out on top of the bulkhead? When this is done, front ride height is lowered a lot, and the front suspension is really stiffened; it is then hard to compress the front suspension. The car is being setup with narrow configuration for rubber tires.

Also, when the grub screws are backed out as photographed, which seems about correct to me, they hang down and will be scraping the track. Are the M3x8 grub screws supposed to be used instead of M3x10?

Any thoughts?

By the way, I'm enjoying the sharing of photos, setups, and inforation in this thread, it's great to see other Yokomos. Here are a couple body on and off shots of mine. The driver is being painted.
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Yokomo F1 YRF-img_2382.jpg   Yokomo F1 YRF-img_2383.jpg   Yokomo F1 YRF-img_2380.jpg   Yokomo F1 YRF-img_2379.jpg  
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Old 02-03-2014, 11:57 PM   #66
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looking at the photo's you dont have any where enough spacers to run F104 tyres (narrow front end)

how much ride height are you running ?????
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Old 02-04-2014, 12:04 AM   #67
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First of all, those grub screws are meant to adjust the suspension arms up and down travel. The grub screws limit the movement of the carbon arms. Not for ride height.

Ride height can be adjusted by adding or removing spacers from the main bulkhead screws, or flipping the spacers around on the kingpin.

If you're running narrow then it should be 5.5 mm measured from the top.

Not sure why the screws are sticking out from the bottom. Maybe check the manual again, there might be something you missed.

That spacer setup is meant for foam tires. I remember Hara running rubber tires and he had a stack of 4 spacers!

http://teamyokomo.blogspot.jp/2013/0...o-yrf-001.html
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Old 02-04-2014, 02:48 AM   #68
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I just checked the kit setup and they are using 5mm worth of shims in total for the narrow front end, I am using close to that at 4.5mm, but I need the little extra ride height on our bumpy tracks.

That photo of hara's car he is using the kingpin front arms, not the flexi front arm, so you need to use more spacers with that front end.

I just remeasured mine as well, and looks like I made a mistake on my setup sheet, mine are only at 5.5mm out, not 6 mm.

Beth.
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Old 02-06-2014, 10:54 PM   #69
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Sorry for late reply. Thanks a lot for the help earlier, yes it was a matter of incomplete instructions on bleeding the shock. After fooling around with it for a while, everything went together smoothly. Ran it for the first time half an hour ago, the handling is pretty good but car is lacking in top speed for the big asphalt track I ran on. Might need to go lower turn motor as I'm on 21.5t at 3.0 FDR atm and I already hit top speed first quarter of the track. Thanks again
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Old 02-06-2014, 11:56 PM   #70
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Sorry for late reply. Thanks a lot for the help earlier, yes it was a matter of incomplete instructions on bleeding the shock. After fooling around with it for a while, everything went together smoothly. Ran it for the first time half an hour ago, the handling is pretty good but car is lacking in top speed for the big asphalt track I ran on. Might need to go lower turn motor as I'm on 21.5t at 3.0 FDR atm and I already hit top speed first quarter of the track. Thanks again

Glad everything is working out, what is your final rollout? Are you running rubber or foam tires?
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Old 02-09-2014, 11:42 PM   #71
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anyone using the steel rear shaft ?

what the different compare with the graphite shaft that come with the kit?

thanks
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Old 02-10-2014, 12:09 AM   #72
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I have been using the steel shaft since November. I am only using it as I was sick of the carbon ones stripping where the steel shaft screws into it.

Haven't backed to back it.
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Old 02-10-2014, 12:11 AM   #73
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anyone using the steel rear shaft ?

what the different compare with the graphite shaft that come with the kit?

thanks
I tried it, but was a little slower with it due to the extra rotating mass (it does weigh lots)

It is a direct replacement for the carbon shaft, the only advantage is its stronger.
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Old 02-10-2014, 12:12 AM   #74
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I am only using it as I was sick of the carbon ones stripping where the steel shaft screws into it.
stop hitting things
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Old 02-10-2014, 02:14 AM   #75
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stop hitting things
One of them was from a hit. The other two just stripped tightening the diff.
I ran 12th scale for two years and had some big hits but never broke an axel.
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