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Old 07-02-2016, 04:14 PM   #286
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan View Post
Did you check that the inserts for the upper and lower arms are all same width setting?
yes I did.
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Old 07-02-2016, 04:27 PM   #287
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I guess, I'm going to remove all inserts and check their widths. I know they are pointing to the right direction as the manual.
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Old 07-08-2016, 05:32 AM   #288
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Where do you guys get your parts for the YR10F1?
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Old 07-08-2016, 02:44 PM   #289
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pro-shop futaba and banzai rc
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Old 07-08-2016, 03:02 PM   #290
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Or if you're in Europe like me, Mibosport or Tonisport.
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Old 07-18-2016, 05:32 AM   #291
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One small question, has anyone photos about who to set up the car with inline battery? I have tried but my speedo, justock xr, does not fit below the shock and boody post plate.

Best regards
Javier
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Old 08-01-2016, 10:07 PM   #292
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Hi guys i have a small issue and was hoping one of you could help me out. i have a YRF 001 and just done a rear side tube conversion. the issues is with the small piece that the two tubes bolt to under the shock mounting point. This part now hits my battery. Is there a fix for this or have i done something wrong.

thanks

Last edited by ANGRYEVO8; 08-01-2016 at 10:27 PM.
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Old 08-02-2016, 05:50 AM   #293
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ANGRYEVO8 View Post
Hi guys i have a small issue and was hoping one of you could help me out. i have a YRF 001 and just done a rear side tube conversion. the issues is with the small piece that the two tubes bolt to under the shock mounting point. This part now hits my battery. Is there a fix for this or have i done something wrong.

thanks
Yes... What you can do is either run a thin lipo, or if your setup allows it, push the battery forward as much as possible. I got tired of this and went back to the original part, but replaced the damper by an associated friction damper. Works just as good.

Martin Paradis
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Old 08-03-2016, 05:58 AM   #294
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Thanks Martin, i will try a shorty lipo. If i dont like the way it handles i will go back to a damper.
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Old 08-10-2016, 06:20 PM   #295
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Unhappy Question about using motor Tamiya brushed silver in YR10F

Hi everybody, I need your help,
I have just build the YR10F, without any problem, but when I try to install the motor, I notice that there is space only for a brushless motor. Here in our club the F1 category uses only Tamiya silver motor. My problem is that the holes for attached the motor has different position, so I can't install the motor. So my question: Is there some adaptador that help tu use the brushed Tamiya 540 motor in this car? Or I have to change something?
I will really appreciate some help.
I have the car but I can't use it.

Thanks a lot.
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Old 08-13-2016, 11:47 AM   #296
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Where is the best place to order one ?
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Old 08-15-2016, 09:29 AM   #297
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HK
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Old 10-29-2016, 10:31 AM   #298
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Pre season testing - very promising!







Attached Thumbnails
Yokomo F1 YRF-_20161029_192410.jpg   Yokomo F1 YRF-_20161029_192309.jpg   Yokomo F1 YRF-fb_img_1477814041721.jpg  

Last edited by InZane; 11-01-2016 at 09:41 AM.
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Old 10-29-2016, 12:33 PM   #299
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Hi,

what is that front shock for?

thanks
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Old 11-01-2016, 08:18 AM   #300
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I'm using a floating servo mount but it's attached to the rear of the servo instead of the more traditional way onto the front suspension unit. By connecting the servo directly to the front end you will affect the flex more than if you have the mount as far back on the chassis as possible - there's a "twisting" force on the servo when turning.

When you have a floating servo - front or rear mounted - the chassis will sag in the middle (if its not super stiff) and the ride height will be lower in the middle and a bit higher by the front wing. By attaching the front shock you can adjust the spring tension and have a flat chassis - you can also adjust the stiffnes of the chassis lengthwise by changing the shock spring. The shock is dampening bouncing and vibrations in the front end as well.

Attached Thumbnails
Yokomo F1 YRF-frontshock2.jpg  

Last edited by InZane; 11-01-2016 at 10:51 PM.
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