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Old 09-04-2013, 12:00 AM   #16
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This is the best I can do, this is a Tamiya body and rear wing, with the 3 racing front wing, I had used this body and wing on my old F104 Exotek. (ignore the buggy in the background)



Tamiya 103 front wings do not fit there is just too much difference, I can probably hack it to death to try to get it to fit.
looking at the 104 wings they may fit I don't have any but will dig around and see if they do.




Beth.
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Old 09-04-2013, 08:17 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by EDWARD2003 View Post
I can't get over the fact it doesn't use front springs. What type of dampening does it use?
Hi,
As you may see in the picture in comment 14, the whole front suspension is based on the flex of the carbon piece that act as low triangles.

There are 2 downstop screws and 2 "upstop" screws that limit the flex.

In the new updated chassis, those screw are place wider apart so that they don't push on the thinnest part of carbon in the middle but in the wider thougher part.

The guys in yokomo japan also mentionned to me that they have already changed the screw that locks the left hex for better reliability

Anyway if you still want to go with front spring, Yokomo has relased a more conventional front suspension for their YRF (in both narrow and wide version)



http://f1shop24.com/shop/product_inf...rvk6scseg50dp4
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Old 12-05-2013, 08:16 PM   #18
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Default Yokomo YRF001

Just picked up one of these bad boys. Anything I should know of before I start my build? I know there's a build guide, but if there's anything they left out, let me know.

Oh, do the Yokomo F1 wheels have to use the specific F1 truing arbor? My track has Tamiya arbors, and I think... ZEN arbors. Is the Yokomo wheels a whole different design?

Cheers.
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Old 12-05-2013, 08:23 PM   #19
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Yokomo F1 uses the Tamiya type wheels for both F103 and F104.
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Old 12-05-2013, 08:25 PM   #20
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You the man Dan!
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Old 12-06-2013, 02:23 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by Zedsispeho View Post
Hi,
In the new updated chassis, those screw are place wider apart so that they don't push on the thinnest part of carbon in the middle but in the wider thougher part.
How do you tell the new chassis from the old? Do you have any pics? Thanks
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Old 12-06-2013, 06:45 AM   #22
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How do you tell the new chassis from the old? Do you have any pics? Thanks
Im wondering the same thing. I just bought one of these kits from Amainhobbies, Black Friday weekend sell for $198.48. Ill let you know if it looks any different from the pictures.....Suppose to get it today.

I can wait. I think Ill post build pics, to revive the thread. And post pratice sessions and race results. Damage. All that good stuff!
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Old 12-06-2013, 07:14 AM   #23
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How do you tell the new chassis from the old? Do you have any pics? Thanks
I have the following pic showing the documentation that come with the new blukhead:


Those 2 parts are wider and the "droop" do not sit on the thin "bridge" between the 2 inferior triangles but on the triangles themselves

Hopefully you can see the difference in the following video of the building of the chassis(it is a bit dark):
http://youtu.be/59wBvDOoSVg?t=1m47s

The other way you can tell that you have the new chassis is that there is a very specific screw in a separate bag that allow you to tighten more the left Hex. The screw that came with the initial version was crap and would not allow you to screw correctly the left hex on the rear axle.
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Old 12-08-2013, 05:39 PM   #24
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It was the best of times, it was the worst of times. This statement sums up my experience so far with the Yokomo YRF 001.

Let's start with the former.

The quality and engineering of this chassis was top notch, no complaints there. The only gripe I did have is building the shocks.. I'll admit it was my first experience building these shocks, so it took a little time to get the right amount of oil inside. But, once I figured it all out the shocks were butter smooth, and probably the best F1/1/12 shocks I've built so far. I'm not a big fan of the electronics hanging on the outside edge of the chassis, makes balancing a bitch. I'll have to relocate the electronics inline with the battery.

My first run

The track I race at is a Japanese style outdoor track (I'm living in Japan) and is meant for 1/12 and F1 foam racing.. The track has a tight infield section with lots of chicanes and a straightaway with a long sweeping corner. Handling out of the box, was decent. The rear end was nicely planted and easy to drive, going through the chicanes was a little bit on the slow side. The car was pushing on initial turn in, I discovered the castor clips in the build instructions gives you only 1.5 degree of caster. I ended up changing that to 4.6 degrees of castor, and really opened up the cars turning ability. The car is very stable coming down the straightaway. Entering into the sweeper generated some tail wag, I think this is due to the weighted front end caused by the servo, so I'm going to look at relocating the servo. I think yokomo has a bellcrank system, that should solve it.

I had to make a few adjustments to suit the tracks profile and traction level. Changes I made were shock oil, center shock from a 500 (50)wt to Kyosho 1000 (100)wt, side damper 500 (50)wt to Kyosho (650) 65wt. Side springs went to a copper spring, which helped navigate though the sweepers with ease, changed the camber to -1.5 deg and toe out to 1 deg. This improved the car greatly, and I was posting some consistently fast laps.

Then came the crash......... So, I was driving down the straightaway at quite a clip and my tire grazed the outside board which is only 4 inches tall.. Usually, when you graze the board, you're shot back into the middle of the track... Nope, not me, the tire sidewall grabbed onto the board and lifted the rear end onto the board. The rear of my car was riding the board like a skateboard, and then BAM! The rear end smacked a lamp pole just on the outside of the boards. I walked over to pick it up and the car was in two pieces. The top motor mount brace to the brunt of the force and snapped. The center pivot ball broke and an outside link snapped. I was done for the day, sadly. But, I'm surprised I didn't do anymore damage considering the hit it took. I'll have to do a thorough scan for any hidden breakages/bent pieces.

Overall, this car worked really well on its first outing. The box setup is decent, and with a few tweaks here and there you'll be right up there with the fast guys. Just, don't tap the boards to often.
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Old 12-14-2013, 09:01 PM   #25
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Thinking about getting the YRF001W and wasn't sure what wheels I should be running, F103 wheels or F104 wheels? Want to make sure I get the right track width. Also, can i run any Tamiya F1 bodies on these or only particular ones? Thanks for your help

Cheers
Simon

Last edited by pullstarter; 12-15-2013 at 03:27 PM.
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Old 12-15-2013, 05:50 PM   #26
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what the different low and high nose bodyshell of yokomo??
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Old 12-15-2013, 09:36 PM   #27
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The tip of the nose, is aerodynamically different.

Low and high nose will give different down force characteristics and thus different front down force. I assume, correct me if I'm wrong, low nose will give more front down force (more steering), and high nose will give less (less steering).

http://www.teamyokomo.com/product/bo...d/body_on.html
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Old 12-16-2013, 12:28 AM   #28
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My first club race was a huge success with the Yokomo YRF 001 chassis.

Being absent for 3-4 months due to a cycling accident, I was unsure how this chassis would stack up against the competition. The F1 competition ranges from Kyosho, Tamiya, to name a few. However, I was the lone Yokomo driver. The weekend before, I managed to squeak in a few laps to find a setup that works for the track layout. Everything was going well, until I had a freak accident which snapped the carbon fiber piece mounting the center shock to the motor bulkhead.

Anyway, I only had about 20 laps to figure out what direction to go with chassis setup. I ended up changing a few things, from what I gathered from the short track time.

A- The stock servo mounting position seems to make the YRF 001 corner transitioning a little sluggish (Not good for tight, twisty tracks). This is due to the forward mounted servo placing more weight on the front suspension.This would be good to use for low traction situations, and be good for more open flowing tracks, however, tight and twisty tracks should utilize the optional rearward servo position. This makes the steering more reactive (less weight on the front suspension arms, placing the weight more rearward) and results in quicker corner to corner transitions. Another thing, when running the stock servo position the car tends to "dig" too much when entering into long sweeping corners. This makes it difficult to carry a lot of speed though the corner. I switched over to the optional rearward servo mounting position and it cured this problem. Keep in mind, you don't really need to buy this optional part right away. Every track is different, so test out what works for you. This was the only upgrade I made to the chassis and it worked out perfectly.

B - I change the shock piston to three hole and bumped up the oil to 1000 Yokomo oil, or 1000 Kyosho. If you're wondering its 100wt oil . I also changed the side damper to Kyosho 650 (60wt) and side springs to Yokomo copper. I think the stock springs are a decent starting point for medium to long tracks with a few chicanes. My local track is extremely tight and twisty with lots of chicanes, so it was important to get the car to transition quickly.

C- I opted for ceramic differential balls instead of the standard kit balls. Sanded the differential rings with 600 grit paper, and added an additional 2 conical spring washers to the already one differential spring washer. The three
spring washer setup made the differential SO SO SO smooth, like....crazy smooth. It's important to keep a close eye on the rear axle clamping hub. It tends not to hold on so well and I found out after a few races the axle had some side to side play. Which means the clamping hub is slipping off the smooth carbon axle surface. I might try and scuff up the surface a little, or add a thing layer of rubber glue to add some additional gripping power. I also balanced the rear pod just for the heck of it (You don't really have to do it). I placed 5 grams on the motor side.

D- Make sure the roll damper set screw holding the ball end onto the shaft isn't touching the chassis brace. I found the chassis roll was affected by this set screw touching the chassis brace. All I did was twist the ball end 180 degrees so now it faces up. Problem solved.

I also increased the castor to 4.6 degrees.

I learned quite a bit considering the lack of track time.

Race day went well. The outside temperatures were hovering around 12-15 degrees Celsius. A little on the chilly side, but we were running 21.5 foams.
I trued down the rears to 51.00 mm and fronts to 50.00 mm. This gave me 3.8 rear ride height and 3.6 mm front ride height. Note : I was using the 2 mm axle spacer for the smaller diameter tires. I also took, out one spacer from all four corners on the front suspension. This allowed me to run smaller front tires. However, you have to readjust the set screws accordingly. For each 1 mm spacer taken out, you must adjust all the set screws by 1 mm. The bottom set screws must be decreased by 1 mm, whereas the top set screws must be increased by 1 mm. Remember to adjust them all. If you don't then the carbon arms will not function properly. There must be an easier way of changing ride heights, I haven't bothered looking further into this. I assume, the kingpin spacers will have some effect in ride height change. Just haven't bothered.

Also, make sure your chassis is balanced side to side. An ill handling car starts will an unbalanced chassis. So, first and foremost, try and balance the chassis.

Enough talk... The cars on track performance was magical for its first time out. I TQ'ed on the first run, being 0.300 tenths faster than the next guy. I might add, this guy has been running his Kyosho for 5-6 months prior and has access to a Kyosho factory driver setup wisdom . The car was fast, consistent and so easy to drive. I was able to drive the car up on the raised racing curbs with confidence, and the car cut the corners with ease. Basically it was on rails. The a-main was 8 minute run and managed to click off extremely fast and consistent laps and finished 3 laps ahead of 2nd place.

The most important thing for me was using the right amount of traction compound on the front tires to dial in or out steering. The rear was locked in for traction.

I hope this helps, and I used Yokomo's high nose body. Nice body, and great handling characteristics.
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Old 12-16-2013, 02:39 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pullstarter View Post
Thinking about getting the YRF001W and wasn't sure what wheels I should be running, F103 wheels or F104 wheels? Want to make sure I get the right track width. Also, can i run any Tamiya F1 bodies on these or only particular ones? Thanks for your help

Cheers
Simon
YRF001W is "wide" (200 mm) The wheels should be the ones from F103.

I believe any body from tamiya should fit but if you go for wide version it might be more "accurate" to use a F103 vintage body.
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Old 12-16-2013, 03:08 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zedsispeho View Post
YRF001W is "wide" (200 mm) The wheels should be the ones from F103.

I believe any body from tamiya should fit but if you go for wide version it might be more "accurate" to use a F103 vintage body.
Thanks much appreciated
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