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Old 02-25-2015, 10:49 AM   #196
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I am just completing the build. It is set up as per the instructions. I used 40 wt oil in the shocks. I have no tuning parts other than tires too. (hard and med front and soft and super soft rears) I can use radio settings to lessen the steering etc plus tires to increase or decrease traction. Thanks a lot for helping too !!
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Old 03-01-2015, 03:39 PM   #197
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I'm getting ready to pick up the YRF-001W and would appreciate some advice regarding the parts that I would need/want for rubber tires in the narrow configuration setup.

1) It appears that the kingpin conversion is a good to have for rubber tires and would also convert the front to the Narrow configuration. Is there anything I need to get (i.e. bulkhead) to convert a stock W car to a N?

2) I'm also looking at the steering bell crank conversion. Does anyone have any feedback on this upgrade?

3) What body is preferred for rubber tires on a high bite indoor carpet track.

4) Other then the ceramic balls is there anything else I need to get for the ball differential?
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Old 03-01-2015, 05:05 PM   #198
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I'm getting ready to pick up the YRF-001W and would appreciate some advice regarding the parts that I would need/want for rubber tires in the narrow configuration setup.

1) It appears that the kingpin conversion is a good to have for rubber tires and would also convert the front to the Narrow configuration. Is there anything I need to get (i.e. bulkhead) to convert a stock W car to a N?

Make sure you get the correct kingpin conversion kit, as they sell both the wide and narrow version. It uses the same bulkheads so nothing else is needed, I think I purchased some slightly longer mounting screws to give me a little more ride height adjustment

2) I'm also looking at the steering bell crank conversion. Does anyone have any feedback on this upgrade?

It is a little better then kit setup, but I still found the best steering with a laydown servo and the longest servo horn you can find.

3) What body is preferred for rubber tires on a high bite indoor carpet track.
I always found body to be personal preference, but low nose bodies in theory will give you a little more downforce

4) Other then the ceramic balls is there anything else I need to get for the ball differential?
I found running 3 thrust washers in the following configuration )() made adjustment a little easier and makes the thrust bearing last longer

hope this helps
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Old 03-06-2015, 11:22 AM   #199
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Well Im going to run the car for the first time tonite. Wish me luck. lol
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Old 03-09-2015, 07:42 AM   #200
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Ok so heres how it went: the car had a couple issues. Firstly it pushed which might be because of the wide front end. Second, when I punched it the car would pull badly to the left. Not sure why. One thing that might contribute to the problems was the rear axle clamp kept coming loose. I cranked it down as much as I could yet it kept backing off. I am going to wrap some tape around the axle before I run it again. Please let me know what you recommend. Fyi I had 40 wt oil in both shocks, med front s soft rear tires, wide front end and the front was set up as per the instructions. Thanks
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Old 03-09-2015, 02:29 PM   #201
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Originally Posted by jamminjim View Post
Ok so heres how it went: the car had a couple issues. Firstly it pushed which might be because of the wide front end. Second, when I punched it the car would pull badly to the left. Not sure why. One thing that might contribute to the problems was the rear axle clamp kept coming loose. I cranked it down as much as I could yet it kept backing off. I am going to wrap some tape around the axle before I run it again. Please let me know what you recommend. Fyi I had 40 wt oil in both shocks, med front s soft rear tires, wide front end and the front was set up as per the instructions. Thanks
I would look at the front end again and make sure all the screws are the same, if they are not, it can cause odd handline issues. Also check the front end for tweak, its very east to get some in this chassis.

With that rear diff coming lose, there was a kit with an upgraded screw, which you are a or to tighten further. It is a design flaw and there needs to be an upgrade part... I have been told the Top axle clamp works better as its not as solid as the kit one and can be clamped onto the axle with less force
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Old 03-09-2015, 02:38 PM   #202
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With the clamp nut make sure you grease it up as well, and use a good quality hex wrench to tighten it down. The biggest issue I had was over time, say 6-8 months of use it would squash the carbon axle to the point where it would no longer tighten, so you would have to replace the axle.

Also if you are using F104 fronts the narrow front end gives much better steering. Also less front droop will help with the pushing.

Beth.
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Old 03-09-2015, 11:20 PM   #203
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Thanks I will try those things. If you think of anything else just let me know.
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Old 03-09-2015, 11:40 PM   #204
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Jamminjim -

I ended up buying the steel drive axle and haven't had an issue with the rear hub coming off. For extra security you can look into scuffing the holding surface for added security. Yes, the steel axle weighs a little more, you wont notice an decrease in performance.

Also, evochicks suggestions work as well.
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Old 03-09-2015, 11:46 PM   #205
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Ok so heres how it went: the car had a couple issues. Firstly it pushed which might be because of the wide front end. Second, when I punched it the car would pull badly to the left. Not sure why. One thing that might contribute to the problems was the rear axle clamp kept coming loose. I cranked it down as much as I could yet it kept backing off. I am going to wrap some tape around the axle before I run it again. Please let me know what you recommend. Fyi I had 40 wt oil in both shocks, med front s soft rear tires, wide front end and the front was set up as per the instructions. Thanks
Where does it push in the corner?

Entry? Mid? Exit of the corner?

What is your exact setup? Give us all the details, even down to the washers under the shock.

Measure the track width for front and rear. How wide is the front compared to the rear? A good starting point would be to keep them the same i.e 190 mm for front and rear.
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Old 03-10-2015, 08:10 AM   #206
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Thanks Edward I will. I put some of it here already and the rest is just as the instructions say. I had a thought, should the lower shock have a heavier oil in in?
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Old 03-10-2015, 05:21 PM   #207
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Thanks Edward I will. I put some of it here already and the rest is just as the instructions say. I had a thought, should the lower shock have a heavier oil in in?
I run foam and 100 wt oil, so I'm not sure... I would give it a try, because the Yokomo damper is very,very reactive than most smaller dampers. So, 100 wt with 3 hole piston a good start. I wouldn't go beyond 70 wt.

Also, I would take out the 1 shim under rear shock mounting position and look at raising the the rear position up to 8 or 9 mm.
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Old 03-14-2015, 11:54 AM   #208
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Just got a YRF (from amain for $199!) and am new to F1. Wondering what to do to prep rubber tires (PS-0572 & PS-0573) running narrow on outdoor asphalt.
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Old 03-22-2015, 10:03 AM   #209
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Just got a YRF (from amain for $199!) and am new to F1. Wondering what to do to prep rubber tires (PS-0572 & PS-0573) running narrow on outdoor asphalt.
just use whatever tire sauce you normally use. full sauce the rears and start with half sauce on the front.
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Old 03-23-2015, 10:30 AM   #210
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Thanks for the tip, nissan man. I still have a couple cans of Paragon sitting around that I can finally use!
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