On-road slash 2wd setup?
#1
On-road slash 2wd setup?
I own a slash chuck works a3 lcg chassis. Any tips anybody has to share to help me succeed in creating something formidable. Castle 3800 2s. No rules I have to follow. A buch of work buddies racing At work at the airport.
#2
Tech Regular
Other than that make sure the driveline is free spinning and have at it.
#3
5mm. Nice. I have heard to use fuel line tubing in the shocks. But would limiting straps possibly be better so that the fluid level in the shock is still at max capacity? And has anyone ever heard of putting a piece of tape on one of the holes on the valve in the shock and creating a one way valve. So that dampening and rebound are at a different rate?
#4
Tech Regular
I got some fuel tubing to limit the rebound of the shocks, but never got around to putting it in the shocks (its kind of a pain). Worked fine without it.
Don't use fuel tubing or limiting straps to lower the ride height, you will not have any droop and it will not handle well. Use shorter springs.
Don't use fuel tubing or limiting straps to lower the ride height, you will not have any droop and it will not handle well. Use shorter springs.
#6
You make a very good point stregone. Droop never even came to mind. That's why I like forums. It gets my mind out of the box it is stuck in.
#7
Tech Adept
bpalmer
do you have any pics?
do you have any pics?
#8
Tech Regular
I just remembered I had a thread at URC with some pics. Check it out: http://www.ultimaterc.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=122633
#9
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (1)
unfortunately ...no it is 100 % disassembled, most likely till april as we start racing in may...
however...by leaning the shocks in you can get pretty creative on new mounting positions as well as using a little fuel tubing on the shock shafts. and as the other poster mentioned ..a little tire dope and it handles pretty well..
however...by leaning the shocks in you can get pretty creative on new mounting positions as well as using a little fuel tubing on the shock shafts. and as the other poster mentioned ..a little tire dope and it handles pretty well..
#10
I've assembled a Slash (in fact, an extended Rustler) to race onroad.
I raced this car last year and only did some mods from the previous car.
Changes I've made:
Motor:
Velineon 3500 sensorless => Tekin Redline 10.5T sensored. Not sure if it's better or not... (because Velineon is a beast!!). Geared 56/14 with aluminum gearbox (note: I live in Rio de Janeiro and, here, in the summer, the temperature is around 40 Celsius!!!!)
Shocks:
Last year:
Flex tubes inside the shocks, 1 hole pistons, piece of aluminum to make the shock tower higher. It worked like a charm but I decided to eliminate the tower extenders this year.
This year:
Now, I'm using stock shocks (with aluminum caps and TiNi shafts), 3 hole pistons (70/80, front/rear silicon), Losi springs and those small plastic spacers that comes with the shocks. I've put them inside the shocks (like I did with the flex tubes) and, apparently, it's working pretty well. I'll test this setup tomorrow and return here to leave my feedback.
Here's our track here in Brazil:
I raced this car last year and only did some mods from the previous car.
Changes I've made:
Motor:
Velineon 3500 sensorless => Tekin Redline 10.5T sensored. Not sure if it's better or not... (because Velineon is a beast!!). Geared 56/14 with aluminum gearbox (note: I live in Rio de Janeiro and, here, in the summer, the temperature is around 40 Celsius!!!!)
Shocks:
Last year:
Flex tubes inside the shocks, 1 hole pistons, piece of aluminum to make the shock tower higher. It worked like a charm but I decided to eliminate the tower extenders this year.
This year:
Now, I'm using stock shocks (with aluminum caps and TiNi shafts), 3 hole pistons (70/80, front/rear silicon), Losi springs and those small plastic spacers that comes with the shocks. I've put them inside the shocks (like I did with the flex tubes) and, apparently, it's working pretty well. I'll test this setup tomorrow and return here to leave my feedback.
Here's our track here in Brazil:
+ YouTube Video | |
Last edited by rnelias; 03-10-2012 at 06:24 AM.
#11
Some tests and changes:
Yesterday, I finally had the opportunity to test my car. Here goes some changes I did and conclusions:
1). Gearing (MMP + Tekin Redline 10.5T sensored)
56/14 (4.00) was not a good choice. After changing to 52/15 (3.47) the car started to give me a good final speed and responsive accelerations. Top temperature was 75 Celsius in other very hot day here in Rio (rounding 38 Celsius). I also adjusted my timing advance to the "high" level in MMP (not tested the highest yet).
2). Suspension: nothing to be changed in the shocks. They are working really great as I planned. I only changed my rear camber and put -10 degrees.
What do I think that can be improved?
Speed: Redline 10.5T proved to be enough to push a Slash 2WD, but I'm not sure if I can go further with gearing/timing settings. Maybe a 13.5T or the high torque rotor would help to squeeze more speed in this car.
Rear hubs: when turning, it's easy to note that the rear hubs are hardly required due to tires traction and suspension work. In some cases the tires vibrate laterally so hard that my hubs, protrac/plastic, are starting to get loose where the bearings are placed. I'm planing to change these hubs for aluminum.
Yesterday, I finally had the opportunity to test my car. Here goes some changes I did and conclusions:
1). Gearing (MMP + Tekin Redline 10.5T sensored)
56/14 (4.00) was not a good choice. After changing to 52/15 (3.47) the car started to give me a good final speed and responsive accelerations. Top temperature was 75 Celsius in other very hot day here in Rio (rounding 38 Celsius). I also adjusted my timing advance to the "high" level in MMP (not tested the highest yet).
2). Suspension: nothing to be changed in the shocks. They are working really great as I planned. I only changed my rear camber and put -10 degrees.
What do I think that can be improved?
Speed: Redline 10.5T proved to be enough to push a Slash 2WD, but I'm not sure if I can go further with gearing/timing settings. Maybe a 13.5T or the high torque rotor would help to squeeze more speed in this car.
Rear hubs: when turning, it's easy to note that the rear hubs are hardly required due to tires traction and suspension work. In some cases the tires vibrate laterally so hard that my hubs, protrac/plastic, are starting to get loose where the bearings are placed. I'm planing to change these hubs for aluminum.
#12
Slash 2wd on road ideas
I've been searching and found a few threads but have a question still. How do I get the ride height down to get the truck lower to the ground? If anyone has done this any setup info or pointers would be appreciated.
#13
Zipties on each shock or fuel tubing as spacers inside the shock.
#14
If I was going to run on road with no jumps, I would be using fuel tubing in the shock shaft to lower the CG of it too. what kind of tires are you running?