New Novak Brusless System
06-21-2007, 02:05 AM
#2311
Ive got a question. I have the GBT Spectrum and got it all situated in my CR (will post pics here later today). Im going to be running brushed motors for a month or so, but in the meantime Im stupid. I cant figure out if I am in brushed mode or not. I have re-done the one touch a fe times to reset it, but its really hard for me to see if its done correct. I see red/blue flash 9 times, then when it comes back and goes solid I hit the button again and I see a faint green light flash while the red/blue is still there. Is that correct?
Reason why I ask is cause I did it again right after and the red/blue lights were still on when I tried to change modes again.
Reason why I ask is cause I did it again right after and the red/blue lights were still on when I tried to change modes again.
06-21-2007, 03:15 AM
#2312
A tighter fitting heat sink allows for more efficient conduction of heat. Novak definitely intended the heat sink to be at least somewhat tight because if it slides on too easily, it wouldn't do it's job of dissipating heat as well. But maybe your's was accidentally manufactured incorrectly... If so, why not ask Novak to replace it?
06-21-2007, 03:47 AM
#2313
is it possible to use a gtb with 4,5 by m-chassis (tamiya M03-M) if possible what combination is suitable for the safety play? i have a m-chassis outlaw race this sunday....
06-21-2007, 05:12 AM
#2315
lol. Why would you need to do any of that, it should just SLIDE on like the instructions say. Wait, it doesn't, because its poorly manufactured.
Novak, your excellent customer service will NEVER make up for your lack in product. The motor ended up being junked with the sleeve still on it because i could not hammer it on any more. The aluminum just was too soft and mushroomed so it would never completely go on. I tried to salvage the poorly manufactured aluminum junk from the junk can but it was siezed on there (because it was so tight). Ended up trashing both peices and will sac $125 at the LHS for another ss13.5 w/ heat sleeve.
I will then take the new poorly machined sleeve and sand off some material from the inside.
Please recall this product and make it fit right.
Novak, your excellent customer service will NEVER make up for your lack in product. The motor ended up being junked with the sleeve still on it because i could not hammer it on any more. The aluminum just was too soft and mushroomed so it would never completely go on. I tried to salvage the poorly manufactured aluminum junk from the junk can but it was siezed on there (because it was so tight). Ended up trashing both peices and will sac $125 at the LHS for another ss13.5 w/ heat sleeve.
I will then take the new poorly machined sleeve and sand off some material from the inside.
Please recall this product and make it fit right.
Last edited by Drewdc90; 06-25-2007 at 01:10 AM. Reason: Wromg spelling
06-21-2007, 05:30 AM
#2316
Hey guys,
I have been using my GTB with a 5.5 and a 4.5 but all of a sudden i have been getting major glitches where it just takes off across the track and it caused me one broken xray
.
I took it back and found that one of the power caps legs are snapped so i was wondering if this was causing the glitches???
Thanks
Jamie
I have been using my GTB with a 5.5 and a 4.5 but all of a sudden i have been getting major glitches where it just takes off across the track and it caused me one broken xray
.I took it back and found that one of the power caps legs are snapped so i was wondering if this was causing the glitches???
Thanks
Jamie
06-21-2007, 08:03 AM
#2317
Jamie,
That may definately be part of the problem with the glitching you are experiening.
Also as a rule of thumb the cleaner the installation looks the better it usually works.
You want to make all the power wires just as long as they need to be... in a touring car your wires can be made MUCh shorter than the length they come out of the box.
Also, keep the signal and power wires as separated from one another as possible.
That may definately be part of the problem with the glitching you are experiening.
Also as a rule of thumb the cleaner the installation looks the better it usually works.
You want to make all the power wires just as long as they need to be... in a touring car your wires can be made MUCh shorter than the length they come out of the box.
Also, keep the signal and power wires as separated from one another as possible.
Hey guys,
I have been using my GTB with a 5.5 and a 4.5 but all of a sudden i have been getting major glitches where it just takes off across the track and it caused me one broken xray.
I took it back and found that one of the power caps legs are snapped so i was wondering if this was causing the glitches???
Thanks
Jamie
I have been using my GTB with a 5.5 and a 4.5 but all of a sudden i have been getting major glitches where it just takes off across the track and it caused me one broken xray
.I took it back and found that one of the power caps legs are snapped so i was wondering if this was causing the glitches???
Thanks
Jamie
06-21-2007, 09:16 AM
#2318
06-21-2007, 09:19 AM
#2319
Ive got a question. I have the GBT Spectrum and got it all situated in my CR (will post pics here later today). Im going to be running brushed motors for a month or so, but in the meantime Im stupid. I cant figure out if I am in brushed mode or not. I have re-done the one touch a fe times to reset it, but its really hard for me to see if its done correct. I see red/blue flash 9 times, then when it comes back and goes solid I hit the button again and I see a faint green light flash while the red/blue is still there. Is that correct?
Reason why I ask is cause I did it again right after and the red/blue lights were still on when I tried to change modes again.
Reason why I ask is cause I did it again right after and the red/blue lights were still on when I tried to change modes again.
Anyone?
06-21-2007, 09:26 AM
#2320
If I held onto my receipts I would have sent it back, lost a few weeks of racing and saved some $$.
06-21-2007, 09:26 AM
#2321
Ive got a question. I have the GBT Spectrum and got it all situated in my CR (will post pics here later today). Im going to be running brushed motors for a month or so, but in the meantime Im stupid. I cant figure out if I am in brushed mode or not. I have re-done the one touch a fe times to reset it, but its really hard for me to see if its done correct. I see red/blue flash 9 times, then when it comes back and goes solid I hit the button again and I see a faint green light flash while the red/blue is still there. Is that correct?
Reason why I ask is cause I did it again right after and the red/blue lights were still on when I tried to change modes again.
Reason why I ask is cause I did it again right after and the red/blue lights were still on when I tried to change modes again.
I suggest that you e-mail this question directly to :
[email protected]
[email protected]
06-21-2007, 09:28 AM
#2322
Hey King,
Sorry that I missed your question there.
After you wait for the red and blue LEDs to flash 9 times and then they come on solid you need to tap the button to get into brushed mode.
Directly after that you should see the red and amber LEDs on solid with the green LED flashing for a few moments...then the ESC should return to red and blue on.
At this point you should have control of your brushed motor.
If at any point after the brushed mode setup you do the one touch set up, you will revert the ESC back to default settings which is a brushless mode.
I hope this helps you get your problem sorted out.
If not, please call us at 949-833-8873
Sorry that I missed your question there.
After you wait for the red and blue LEDs to flash 9 times and then they come on solid you need to tap the button to get into brushed mode.
Directly after that you should see the red and amber LEDs on solid with the green LED flashing for a few moments...then the ESC should return to red and blue on.
At this point you should have control of your brushed motor.
If at any point after the brushed mode setup you do the one touch set up, you will revert the ESC back to default settings which is a brushless mode.
I hope this helps you get your problem sorted out.
If not, please call us at 949-833-8873
06-21-2007, 10:04 AM
#2324
I bought two a while ago, a black one for my 3.5 and a purple one for 4.5. I think either the black heat sink was a tad out of my 3.5 was out because it was very hard too get on. But I didn't go to the length of hammering it on. I just left it on a hot plate for about 30 seconds then quickly slide it on the motor, it did exactly that, slid on. The weird thing was that purple one went on really easy, all i had to was put the endbell on and screw it on to finish the job. Maybe they didn't have as small tolerances when making the motors or maybe there are some dud heat sinks.
Yep, I bought a black one too. It may be coincidence, I highly doubt it. Most likely all the black heat sinks are defective
. Mic it out before you slide it on, you will discover it will measure around 24.2mm and the outside dimension of the stator is the SAME.
06-21-2007, 11:22 AM
#2325
Hey Guys,
We to have noted some tollerance "situations" with the Heat Sink Sleeves. If you heat them up slightly with a heat gun, and push them on "strait" and square they usually drop right on.
If they are loose on the motor, they will not conduct any heat transfer, so the tighter the better really.
If you need any assistance with this, feel free to email us. [email protected], [email protected] or [email protected].
Thanks
We to have noted some tollerance "situations" with the Heat Sink Sleeves. If you heat them up slightly with a heat gun, and push them on "strait" and square they usually drop right on.
If they are loose on the motor, they will not conduct any heat transfer, so the tighter the better really.
If you need any assistance with this, feel free to email us. [email protected], [email protected] or [email protected].
Thanks