screw strength
08-18-2002, 05:20 PM
#16
Who makes the Titanium sets, was it HG or Hardcore?
08-18-2002, 06:03 PM
#17
Originally posted by spongebob
Who makes the Titanium sets, was it HG or Hardcore?
Who makes the Titanium sets, was it HG or Hardcore?
Maybe there are some more.
08-18-2002, 08:01 PM
#18
Which one, HG (hammund ghummand) or Hardcore?
08-20-2002, 12:11 AM
#20
hey John. miss your Tips and Tricks for Stock thread at Trinity Tech Talk. That was really informative stuff you had going there. Maybe you can start one out here in rctech. Im sure a lot of guys will learn a lot from you. Or maybe you can contribute to the "Faster Cornering Speed" thread.
By the way, i was "fAfA" at tech talk. remember me? im that friend of alfred and abit in manila. anyway, i hardly post there so you might not recall ....
By the way, i was "fAfA" at tech talk. remember me? im that friend of alfred and abit in manila. anyway, i hardly post there so you might not recall ....
Last edited by ROBORAT; 08-20-2002 at 12:14 AM.
08-20-2002, 08:09 AM
#22
ROBORAT - Alfred just celebrated a birthday this weekend. Both of them are doing very well. Abit is shopping for a new bike... 
As far as screws go, the nicer lunsford stuff is advertised as 6al/4v so it is the nice stuff. I'm not sure of the T6 aluminum. I assume that they are heat treated to some extent, but it may be T5 or something. Duralumin is a cheap aluminum alloy that tends to bend instead of shear. IIRC, SS should be the strongest of the bunch followed closely by titanium. The thing is that SS is relatively brittle in comparison so it CAN break where a titanium part would flex/bend and live. Ballends come to mind. How many SS ballends have you snapped off at the head and how many titanium ones? I'm also used to seeing titanium turnbuckles bend before they break. Aluminum should ONLY be used in non-load-bearing applications. No shock towers, no suspension pivots, no bulkheads. I might use them for gearboxes, but I usually reserve them for upper decks if anything. That is where the weight savings will do the most good anyways. I actually stay away from aluminum now. I use steel screws on all my bottom deck mounts, and titanium anywhere else. I like to think it keeps my CG lower, but I'm sure it's insignificant...
Also NEVER buy HG crap. That stuff is horrible for fit and finish. It will destroy other parts on your car. Lunsford, Niftech, Yokomo, Tamiya, and Schumacher all market very accessible, reliable titanium screws.
As far as screws go, the nicer lunsford stuff is advertised as 6al/4v so it is the nice stuff. I'm not sure of the T6 aluminum. I assume that they are heat treated to some extent, but it may be T5 or something. Duralumin is a cheap aluminum alloy that tends to bend instead of shear. IIRC, SS should be the strongest of the bunch followed closely by titanium. The thing is that SS is relatively brittle in comparison so it CAN break where a titanium part would flex/bend and live. Ballends come to mind. How many SS ballends have you snapped off at the head and how many titanium ones? I'm also used to seeing titanium turnbuckles bend before they break. Aluminum should ONLY be used in non-load-bearing applications. No shock towers, no suspension pivots, no bulkheads. I might use them for gearboxes, but I usually reserve them for upper decks if anything. That is where the weight savings will do the most good anyways. I actually stay away from aluminum now. I use steel screws on all my bottom deck mounts, and titanium anywhere else. I like to think it keeps my CG lower, but I'm sure it's insignificant...
Also NEVER buy HG crap. That stuff is horrible for fit and finish. It will destroy other parts on your car. Lunsford, Niftech, Yokomo, Tamiya, and Schumacher all market very accessible, reliable titanium screws.
08-20-2002, 08:03 PM
#23
ruf/John: thanks for saying hi for me. alfred and i are in touch thru email ang via yahoo messenger. we're actually planning to meet up in NY next month if my US trip pushes thru. I was thinking of doing some racing there but i'll be with the wife and kid and dont think i'll have time fly over to houston so thats why alfred will come meet up with me (besides he gets free airfare thru his sis!). i may check out the trinity facilities in jersey with another fellow filipino based there.
John: saw your post at the other thread. great stuff as usual! finally, i have something to follow in these message boards!
keep it up!
John: saw your post at the other thread. great stuff as usual! finally, i have something to follow in these message boards!
keep it up!
08-20-2002, 08:03 PM
#24
Well Joe and I sacrificed two screws for science tonight. One was a blue aluminum screw (probably associated). I broke it in half with two small pair of pliers. Pretty easy. It broke with a brittle fracture (you can see the crystals of the metal in the break). No tearing. No real bending at all. This indicates a tempered aluminum screw.
The other screw was a standard steel screw that comes with the Losi and Associated kit. It bent a little (about 10 degrees) and then broke with a brittle fracture. This indicates a tempered screw that is quite a bit harder than grade 5 which will bend over 90 degrees. Probably a grade 8 screw. Much harder to break than the Aluminum. OK, so I was bored waiting for packs to charge.
By the way join us at ReflexRC in Houston for the Region 9 on-road regionals this weekend August 24-25 Check details at ReflexRC.com
Roborat-Thanks. Seems we posted at the same time.
The other screw was a standard steel screw that comes with the Losi and Associated kit. It bent a little (about 10 degrees) and then broke with a brittle fracture. This indicates a tempered screw that is quite a bit harder than grade 5 which will bend over 90 degrees. Probably a grade 8 screw. Much harder to break than the Aluminum. OK, so I was bored waiting for packs to charge.
By the way join us at ReflexRC in Houston for the Region 9 on-road regionals this weekend August 24-25 Check details at ReflexRC.com
Roborat-Thanks. Seems we posted at the same time.
Last edited by John Stranahan; 08-20-2002 at 08:06 PM.
08-20-2002, 08:13 PM
#25
Originally posted by spongebob
Which one, HG (hammund ghummand) or Hardcore?
Which one, HG (hammund ghummand) or Hardcore?
08-20-2002, 09:11 PM
#26
Just wonder if is it harder to anodize Titanium screws?? or anodizing any type of metal is pretty much the same just some material needs longer time to do it?
Thanks
Thanks
08-21-2002, 01:05 PM
#28
John,
Simple Green as solution!!??!!!!! Wow....I thought might be some Cu+ based solution to get the blue color... since Cu+ is blue colored. But simple green~! hum~
Yeah more detail please~ should I make the screw attach to the positive side or negative side??
Thank you very much!
Simple Green as solution!!??!!!!! Wow....I thought might be some Cu+ based solution to get the blue color... since Cu+ is blue colored. But simple green~! hum~
Yeah more detail please~ should I make the screw attach to the positive side or negative side??
Thank you very much!
08-21-2002, 04:05 PM
#29
Place negative wire in the solution and let it fall to the bottom. Attach positive wire with a clip to the clean and degreased part (use alocohol). Dip the part not including any part of the clip into the solution for 10 seconds. Presto blue turnbuckle. Polish the part beforehand if you want to improve the finish. The solution only acts as a conductive medium and does not add to the color in any way. Lots of things will provide a good solution. The color is affected by the thickness of the anodized layer that forms on the part. Colors (grey 9V), Dark purple 18 V, Blue 27 Volt, light blue 36 V. Connect the 9 Volt batteries in series (plus minus) to obtain the proper voltage. Use three 9 V transistor batteries to get 27 Volts. Although these batteries are on the tiny side, 27 volts will give you quite a shock and start quite a little fire if you short them. Be careful. I always like to wear some kind of eye protection even though the simple green is a fairly safe chemical it is probably not pleasant to splash it in your eye. You can connect the batteries by soldering short lead wires to them or use alligator clips. Have not tested the setup with clips but saw the setup work quite well with soldered batteries.
Last edited by John Stranahan; 08-21-2002 at 04:10 PM.
08-21-2002, 08:12 PM
#30
John: ive alwasy wanted to learn how to anodize! wow! it sounds simple. but im not clear about how to set-up the positive wire with that clip you meantioned. cant picture it in my head. 
is the process the same for aluminum screws? and how do you get non conventional colors like red, orange, green?another thing is if lets say a screw is already anodized blue, can i re-anodize it to change it to another color?
oh, and please pardon my ignorance. what is simple green and where can you get that? sorry for the stupid question.
is the process the same for aluminum screws? and how do you get non conventional colors like red, orange, green?another thing is if lets say a screw is already anodized blue, can i re-anodize it to change it to another color?oh, and please pardon my ignorance. what is simple green and where can you get that? sorry for the stupid question.
Last edited by ROBORAT; 08-21-2002 at 08:35 PM.