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Do I really need matched batteries?

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Old 10-02-2001, 09:25 AM
  #16  
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Speedo: good point. All of my practice packs used to be my top racing packs.

Your right, having good cell voltage is key for stock class.

I think that he should try the Integy packs. They let you try mathed packs at a low cost.
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Old 10-02-2001, 10:05 AM
  #17  
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Originally posted by futureal
I use 1700s for F1 racing indoors, and I have never had one of my 1700 packs "out punch" my 2400s... but that may be because my 2400 packs are all pretty nice matched ones. The 1700s I have are all the yellow/black Panasonic ones, don't know if that makes a difference either.

Just buzz your 2400s at 5 or 6 amps, discharge at 30, and they will have plenty of punch! Just very little runtime... but who needs runtime in 5 minute stock anyway?
I'm charging both 2400's and 1700's with 6,5 amps. I drive them until they just start dropping. Then they are discharged at 10 amps (normally less than 100 mAH left). Cool down. Charge. Drive... When the session is over, they are equalized for about 24 hours on an active discharger.

If a 1700 pack and a 2400 are made of the same materials and are totally the same, except the capacity, then the smaller capacity pack have less resistance and higher voltage. The bigger pack have more capacity, but less voltage and higher resistance.

So what the producers do, is to use better materials etc. in the high capacity cells. So they get better and better.

Maybe my 2400 matched Sanyos are supposed to better than my "low-tech" 1700 un matched Sanyos, but when it's about punch, I've no doubt: The 1700 pack are better than my 2400.
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Old 10-02-2001, 01:38 PM
  #18  
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I'll vouch for Darkside, he always is in the top of the A main and is very consistent. You don't need matched packs, but for what Integy sells their 2400 matched packs for you can't go wrong. I would be more concerned with driving abilities before batteries, once you've reached a peak...then the batteries will make the difference.
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