alvinsmith75

iTrader: (38)

I used to drag race 10th scale touring cars a while back and at the time I ran a Mugen MTX3 nitro. This was a belt driven car and the belts held up great to both small and big block nitro engines. I have since made the switch to electric in all my rc adventures and am looking for an electric 10th scale 4wd touring car that can handle the abuse we put them through. I know the electric motors can deliver much more power and am looking for a car with a drivetrain that can take it.

Let me tell you more. We spray the ground with VP LC6 which is a very sticky traction compound. If you walk on it your shoe will actually stick to the ground and I have seen it pull shoes off people before. We use foam tires and have to put wheelie bars on the touring cars to keep them from flipping over backwards coming off the line. I would like to make one purchase and have the right car to do the job. I know nothing about the current cars on the market. The cars we ran sucessfully on nitro were the mugen, serpent and associated tc3. I had a traxxas 4tec and although it was fast, the rear belt would not last more than 2 runs at a time.

Any and all advice will be appreciated.

Thanks,
Alvin

alvinsmith75

iTrader: (38)

Back to page 1. Anyone have any input?

Mr RCTech

iTrader: (2)

Use a touring car that has the most caster.
This will make the vehicle go straight.

Lessen

iTrader: (2)

Something that is naturally rear weight biased might be better than a front motor chassis as well. That's just hypothesis though...

alvinsmith75

iTrader: (38)

Great input from both of you guys, thanks. I guess I should list the bare bones requirements. The car must have either steel cvd's or dogbones(no Plastic). Also if belt driven the belts should be of best quality. Not sure what Mugen uses but those things were awesome(sepent as well).

I have seen some motors that mount sideways and some that mount lengthwise, not sure which would be better.

Lessen

iTrader: (2)

A motor that mounts inline is probably a shaft driven chassis,or at least that what I envision generally. If I were in your shoes I would want to steer clear of that due to the possibility of any torque steer on launch. You won't get that in a belt driven car because the drivetrain isn't trying to twist the chassis around the centerline.

alvinsmith75

iTrader: (38)

Ok to start compileing the info I have found, I am looking for a car with a bunch of caster, belt driven, steel axles(dogbones or cvd's), rear weight biased and the strongest belts on the market. Which car is this. Let's say the top 3 choices?

alvinsmith75

iTrader: (38)

bump for an answer

FNG RIDER

Check out the Tamiya TA06, it has a lot of rear weight bias when running the front shocks cantilevered laid down. It also has direct drive to the rear diff. reviewers have reported this combination of rear bias and direct rear drive produces hard launches. It also has a single belt to the front diff. top end is not as strong as the launch, maybe due to the long single belt.

you have an option of running front shocks cantilevered or the up right position.
The cantilevered position will allow you to run a low profile body. Tamiya offers a slammed NSX body that is designed to take advantage of the cantilevered shock position.

Perhaps there are ways to give it more top end, such as adding a belt guide tensioner, and/or low friction belts.

If you want a more conventional belt drive car, check out the Associated TC6. Built to last and parts are available everywhere!

If you run in the the stock class, 17.5 blinky 2s, then a shaft drive will be more efficient and you wont get torque steer with the 17.5 motor and 2s battery. Find a Associated TC3 roller. there still around and very durable.

hope this helps

rob4448585

iTrader: (4)

Alvinsmith, what did you go with? Doing the same thing now.

alvinsmith75

iTrader: (38)

Lol decided to stick with off road.

rob4448585

iTrader: (4)