Nova F1 Racer

iTrader: (3)

Ahh yes, I *know* who you are now....
You are correct sir you are not a stranger to the site...
The TB01 gear thingy is one thing I wanted to try but haven't yet....

The link did not work but I got there anyways... Does it have an English version?

http://users.pandora.be/tamiyabelgium/

Hardriven RC

No sorry, no English version.

We already have 3 national languages so we don't need to add English to the list.

And don't call me sir, we're all guys (and some girls) enjoying the same hobby.

btw If you use the finepitch gears it reduces the noise a lot.

Nova F1 Racer

iTrader: (3)

Well excuse me girly-man
Well, since 85 percent of the worlds internet traffic goes through USA ( the county I live in Loudoun in Virginia ) has 67 percent of the world's internet traffic alone so I want every site to have an english version.

Trying to fine the right gears ( The biggest F201 problem is lack of adjustable motor/gears ) What would you recommend?

Profoxcg

iTrader: (2)

so whos is going to release a nitro F1 car and when?

psycho

Profoxcg

Here goes:

http://www.formula1-rc.com/News/News.asp?ID=270

and

http://www.dse-formula.com/

Profoxcg

iTrader: (2)

thanks ,

wow that look really cool !.

i just wonder on part availability and support. Also i am wondering how it handles on a rear race scenario. i looked at the videos on the site and they dont tell much.

do you know what the price on this car is?

What about tyres? who will make them ?

psycho

It is based on the design from FPM, so most of the drivetrain parts are from Kyosho. The custom bits would likely be available separately. F201 rims and bodies will fit. There is a message forum on www.formula1-rc.com that you can post questions about the car.

Neil Rabara

I'm looking at the 4wd DsE car, the 2wd FPM car looks cool, but it may be too hard to control. I like the front brake on it though.

psycho

Especially with a 4 stroke engine in it. You'll have to be REALLY smooth on the throttle. Time to get a fet throttle servo.

badboy

iTrader: (14)

Just finished setting up my car for the coming TCS. I copied David Jun's setup. I have the following questions though:

1. I copied the pillow-ball gap settings, the problem is when im setting the front and rear camber (1 deg. each) it seems that they are way off (using David Jun's setup). how do you guys setup your camber?

2. We run on a fairly smooth track with great traction. What oil, spring and pistons combo do you suggest. 1 or 3 holes/30wt or 80wt oil/soft,med or hard springs?

3. Lastly, whats the effect if you lenghten or shorten the front and rear rocker arm turnbuckles?

Thanks heaps in advance.

jygs

Nova F1 Racer

iTrader: (3)

1. Rear camber 2 front 1, when you change the camber you have to adjust the steering linkage. Toe-in: rear 1 1/2 and front 1/2

2. 3 holes, 80 weigh, med in front and soft in rearsmall spacer on both.

3. Longer means higher ride heigth, same in front. Ride height 5 in front and 4 1/2 in rear.

psycho

badboy

You need to set the track width before you set the camber. Actually, you should set this first, since the camber and toe settings are all affected by the track width. The easiest way to set the track width is with a 1/10 scale Hudy setup board/decal. You can also use a ruler or caliper and get the same result, but it's a bit more difficult.

I'll assume that you don't have the Hudy board and explain how to use a ruler or caliper. Pick one side of the car, let' say the left side when the front wing is facing forward.

1. Adjust the front lower pivot ball so that the dogbone is well within the slot on the diff outdrive all throughout the suspension travel. I usually set mine close to the maximum width that is available, but you risk bending the pivot balls if you hit something. You will need to adjust the upper pivot ball as well so that you can fit the wrench inside the uprights.

2. Once you have the front done, do the same on the left rear. You might want to have the rear slightly narrower than the front.

3. Now that you have the left side done, measure with a ruler or caliper from the edge of the chassis plate to the end of the upright (without the rim installed.) Measure the front and rear and make a note of what the measurements are. If you're not quite at an exact measurement, tighten the pivot ball down until you get an exact measurement. This will make adjusting things easier.

4. Replicate the measurements from the left side on the right side. It is not important if the front and rear are the same, only that the left front and riht front are the same and that the left rear and right rear are the same.

Once you have that set, adjust your camber and toe. Good luck! I hope that helps you get your car going.

Profoxcg

iTrader: (2)

speaking of set up, can you change the roll centers , caster, and rear toe?

thanks

losispeed

Yes you can change rear toe.. Not sure about caster.. And as far as roll center goes, I believe you will need to get diffrent rocker arms to make that change. I think its 3racings rocker arms that come with spacers that allow you to adjust this..

psycho

Caster cannot be changed without mounting the arms differently, so basically, the answer is no, not easily. You can raise the roll center by shimming the lower arms where they mount to the bulkhead, but frankly, I can't see why you would really want to do that since the car works well with a lot of roll. You could shave the upper arm mounts down so you could mount the upper arms lower, thus lowering the rollcenter. Either of these mods would be TCS illegal, so you should consider that before modding the car.

Changing the rocker (locker) arms will not change the rollcenter. It only changes the leverage on the shocks, which acts like a springrate adjustment.